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Long Range Reconnaissance Patrol… – Meemure & Narangamuwa

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Year and Month July, 2013 (12th to 15th)
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew 3 on 12 & 13 July & 4 on 14 & 15 July (Age: Classified) - Tony, Lasantha, Dimuthu and Me with our helpful host Nava mama
Accommodation Nava Mama’s House (081-3804191) – Best place to stay with a real village experience with typical village food.
Transport
  • Colombo – Kandy – Train
  • Kandy – Hunnasgiriya – Bus
  • Hunnasgiriya – Meemure – Nava Mama’s Tuk-Tuk
  • Around Meemure – On Foot
  • Back to Hunnasgiriya – Nava Mama’s Tuk-Tuk
  • Hunnasgiriya – Colombo via Kandy – Bus
Activities Photography, Hiking, Experiencing Village Life Style, Etc.
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo -> Kandy -> Hunnasgiriya -> Meemure and return on the same route
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • From Hunnasgiriya to Meemure, there’s a Van around 1.30pm. But if you wanna visit Deanston Mini World’s End and Dothalugala, ask Nava Mama to send his Tuk-tuk. Don’t hire one from Hunnasgiriya as they’re bound to rob you in broad daylight.
  • If you visit Dothalugala, you have to buy the tickets at Deanston Knuckles Conservation Centre. 25/- each.
  • There even is a camp site at Dothalugala about 2km away from the road which you can book. Also they have a cabin as well about 1.8km away. If the camp site or cabin is booked, KCC might not allow you to visit this trail, if they do; they might give you a guide (Please check in advance). You can book these from Forest Department head office or Kandy sub office.
  • Meemure now boasts Electricity thanks to Ana and Wije.
  • Call Nava mama in advance and get an idea as to what you can do within your time frame. He’ll come up with a workable solution making full use of your time and stay there. Don’t forget to check the weather as well because if it’s raining, the whole journey might be ruined.
  • Please don’t bring back any plants no matter how beautiful they look. They won’t survive anywhere else. So please leave them be.
  • Always better to go about with an experienced guide like Nava mama who knows the whole area like the back of his hand.
  • Meemure boasts the tastiest water (according to me) and you don’t need to carry plenty of water. Just one or two bottles will do as there are plenty of waterways to refill. Something to bite like biscuits won’t go amiss when you’re on a hike. I was later kicking myself for forgetting this.
  • You need Leech protection for Dothalugala. In Meemure, there are in the rainy season (which you should avoid) and in the dry season, hardly any leeches.
  • Take millions of pics and leave only the foot prints. Don’t leave polythene or plastic.
Related Resources
Author SriAbey
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

“Sampath, Sampath; get up, get up. You’re talking in your dream.” – My mother shakes me. I try to open my eyes and they are glued to the eye sockets.
“Who’s Lakegala?” – She keeps at it.
“What?” – I can’t make head nor tail of this.
“You were talking in your dream calling Lakegala. Who’s that?” – She is not about to give up on my dream talking.
I start giggling like a kid who got caught with Candy in his pajamas.
“What are you giggling at? Who’s Lakegala?” – She’s now highly suspicious.
“What’s going on” – My brother and grandma join the fun.
“Amma, Lakegala is not someone. It’s a rocky mountain in Meemure” – I can hardly get the words out.
“He’s crazy. Going around the country and now talking to them in his dreams not letting us get a decent night’s sleep.” – Typical grandma too wants big chunk of this pie.
“Amma, how can a girl be called Lakegala” – My brother wants to make a mockery out of this now. However little does he know that I always refer to Lakegala as her.
“Get back to sleep. Make sure you say Ithipiso Gatha before you do” – Mum warns and I duly oblige amid my hysterical laughs.

“Bambu Sema Thena Thena Gal Kanu Seduna
Sembu Sema E Matha Olugedi Thenuna
Thembu Diya Sema Anga Dahadiya Galana
Bambu Gala Medin Api Meemure Yanna”

“Epita Konata Kandupana Keleya
Mepita Konata Lakgala Meemureya
Desiya Dekak Usa Ethi Gomareya
Hondai Parakas Laka Meemureya”

Belu Belu Sathara Wata Us Kandu Getaya
Kandukara Idamwala Enasal Pala Baraya
Pasekin Yodayeku Men Ethi Lak Galaya
Me Hema Medin Aththe Meemuraya”

Nava mama’s voice was still echoing in my ear when I went back to my dream world. Gosh I miss Lakegala that much.

—I just typed up a recent conversation in my house late in the night with my family. Sampath is what my family and neighbors call me at home if you wonder who Sampath was.—

I left you in Kandy with my last report and hopefully you’ve read it by the time this comes online. I was furious with my friend Dimuthu when he got late to arrive in Fort and Tony and I had to leave him to find his own way to Kandy. Fortunately we managed to have a fruitful time in Kandy visiting Garrison Cemetery and National Museum, Kandy.

So Dimuthu came to Kandy around 10.30am and Tony and I joined him at the station. I’ve my bunnies (not mine actually) at the front garden of the station and I always make it a point to go see them possibly with some carrots too. Unfortunately this time I didn’t come across any vegetable vendors so had to visit them empty handed.

To my both disappointment and amazement, there were new bunnies. I was frantically searching for my old fellows without success. What happened to them? I had no idea and didn’t wanna check with those rude tickets issuing people at the station. Hope nothing bad had befallen on them. There were a bunch of new fellows very cute and I felt like cuddling them to me. Tony practically had to drag me out and we came to the bus stand looking for a Mahiyangana-bound bus. There was one filled to the brim and almost bursting at seams but we had no choice but to hop in squeezing in between sweating passengers.

I was still having that darn fever in me and found it very difficult to stand but there were no seats reserved for sick people no matter how much I tried to find one. The bus getting cramped like a lorry full of sand and conductor kept pushing and shouting to go back and forth. The fact that we’d not had any decent breakfast let alone lunch didn’t improve things. After a lot of huffing puffing we reached Hunnasgiriya as tired as racing horses panting nineteen to the dozen.

I called Nava mama but he was at the power plant overseeing the restored hydro power project with the help of Ana and Wije and his wife said Upali (one of their cousin son) is there waiting for us. So we went to Disage Kade (Disa’s Shop – this is where Meemure and Kaikawala vans stop) to have some lunch and met Upali too.

We ordered lunch and gobbled it down hungrily and I had a handful of tablets to go with it. Yuck yuck yucky… All of a sudden my phone started singing just before I put it flight mode. Dana was calling and I was wondering what it could be.

“Hey Dana, what’s up?” – That’s me.
“How are you feeling? Heard you suffering from fever” – Gosh how on earth he knows.
“I’m ok buddy, now in Hunnasgiriya getting ready to go to Meemure” – I couldn’t hide my surprise.
“Are you serious? Going to Meemure when you are down with fever? You’re nuts man” – Couldn’t agree with him more.
“I had to Dana, coz I can’t miss out on Meemure” – A darn fever wasn’t going to hold be back from visiting my beloved Meemure.
“Gosh, good luck then” – I knew I was gonna need so much of that.

Afterwards we bought some provisions for the journey (I was kicking later myself for not buying some biscuits) and got into the tuk-tuk with Upali putting my phone on Flight mode for the next 80 hours (you gotta believe me)

I had everything planned and our first stop was Knuckles Conservation Center (KCC) at Deanston for the Dothalugala trail. I had done Mini World’s End trail before and had no intention of doing that again. Tony kept saying that he’s going back to Meemure after more than two and a half decade (now you can guess his age coz it’s classified info) and was mesmerized by the roads.

Tour Highlights:

  1. Dothalugala Nature Trail
  2. Toddy Tapping
  3. Nitro Caves Trail
  4. Trekking along the Na Ela from Nitro Cave
  5. Re-awakening Meemure – Re-stored Hydro Power Project
  6. Meemure – Reassa Trail
  7. Reassa – Narangamuwa Trail
  8. Narangamuwa – Meemure Circular Trail
  9. Alternative Energy – Dendro Power Plant

Day 01

Listening to Tony’s old stories we were soon at the KCC and got down to buy the tickets and leave our baggage coz we couldn’t risk leaving our bags inside the tuk-tuk. We bought tickets from the friendly officer there and left our baggage inside his office. Fortunately there were only a couple of hikers already on the Dothalugala trail so we were pretty much alone.

Dothalugala Trail

The trail head is about 500m away from the KCC towards Meemure and we decided to take the tuk-tuk and arrived at the gate. (Be warned: if the gate is locked just don’t panic or run back to the office. Just pull it hard and it’s bound to unlock itself. On our way back we had a funny experience with the gate).

There was the sign giving the distance to the camp site and cabin (2km and 1.8km respectively) and we managed to get the tuk-tuk onto this track as well. We found that he path right up to the Dothalugala cabin (1.8km) is easily accessible by a tuk-tuk and no problem with a Jeep or double cab. I really can’t tell you if it’s possible to do it with a van but I see why not.

The winds were coming from all the directions trying to push us away and we instantly felt so chilly as if we were in N’Eliya. Just remember when you were in World’s End amid strong winds and the experience is very similar there. We were hugging ourselves trying to retain what’s left of our body warmth. The scenery around, let me tell you, is absolutely a treat to the eyes. It will soothe your mind and body as if you were meditating or doing Yoga.

The mist was coming down from the top of Dothalugala Mountain enveloping us and then flying away towards the mountains afar. The sky was in two colors, slate grey towards the Dothalugala and bright blue away from it, what a contrast. We kept snapping away while Upali followed us in the tuk-tuk ever so slowly. Around halfway through, we decided to leave it behind as we wanted to feel the surrounding and take hundreds of pics not bothering with the vehicle.

To my surprise we found that our driver Upali, being a Meemure fellow, had never been to Dothalugala. Last time, Chanaka our then tuk-tuk driver said he did the Mini World’s End trail for the first time with us. It was so strange and maybe they don’t value things like that as much as we do since they are living in those areas.

The path was grass covered and a leech or two kept disturbing us (we didn’t know the reception party was waiting patiently at Dothalugala upper trail). Tony kept talking about Prince a.k.a. Kumaraya (by now you know him who’s suffering from leech phobia) and he’d have run all the way to Meemure had he come across a leech or two.

As given correctly on the sign board at the entrance, we were soon at a small stream which ran across the path and just beyond that we saw the camouflage structure painted in dark green which was the cabin. Fortunately nobody had booked it so it was all alone. We decided to have some water and fill our containers at the waterline there. The board giving GPS coordinates said the altitude is 1177m.

Cabin consists of two parts; the kitchen is separate from the sleeping areas where 12 people can stay. It was amid a tiny patch of forest so pretty much hidden inside. About another 50m away, you come to an opening where the trail is divided into three just like a “Thrishul”. The left and middle tracks join one another making a circular trail just like Mini World’s End. The left one is 2.3km in length up to the top and the middle one is 2.2km (making the total length 4.5km) to the top.

The right path takes you to the camp beds about 100m away and around midway folks into two making the left one taking you to the camp beds while the right one takes you to Bird Watching deck. This bird watching deck ends up at a waterfall (which I duly named Dothalugala Ella) with a natural pool for a cool dip.

We chose the middle path and went up through the forest patches and bushes on and off. The path was infested with leeches and Tony was initially protected by the denim jeans but later he found a few leeches underneath that. Somehow or the other, he had gotten the ability to separate leeches gender wise at the end of the journey. According to his findings, he was mostly bitten by female leeches for some reason or the other. Dimuthu was the most affected by leech attacks making his shoes a pool of blood but for some strange reason I was spared maybe I was leading the track all along.

We kept going higher and higher passing breath taking views of the mountains afar and tiny cascades flowing across the path. The path was marked every 100m making it easy to know how far you’ve come and how much more to go. After about an hour, we reached the top. It was nothing much but a small clearing covering all around with thick forest. They had put up GPS coordinates there. The altitude said 1407m. So it was a climb of 230m over 2.2km. Pretty steady one might think.

Then it was time to come down along the other path as there was nothing much we could do amid the forest and thickening mist. We were practically chilled to the marrow and didn’t wanna hang around anymore. When we were coming down, we passed heavy landslides which had taken huge rocks, trees and chunks of earth downhill.

Tony was pretty scared and wanted to cross that bit fairly quickly. We took about another 45mins to get back to the “Thrishul” junction and I was frantically searching for the waterfall. While Tony, Dimuthu and Upali were buys plucking leeches, I took the right path towards camping beds and it forked into two about 50m away and the right hand side said bird watching deck. Further along, there was a sign saying Natural Pool 500m and I could faintly hear the water hitting the rocks. My heart leaped and I rushed through to find this beautiful waterfall coming down creating a grand base pool ideal to have a cool dip on a hot summer day.

All the others missed this thanks to leeches. I was very happy to see this beauty and duly named her Dothalugala Falls. Then it was about another 1km to the tuk-tuk where we had left it. I wish we had taken it further up making the downhill journey easy. We noticed that the tuk-tuk had moved about 20ft and was wondering what had come over it. By the time we reached the gate, it was closed with a padlock.

I was beginning to worry coz it was starting to get dark and we were long overdue to arrive in Meemure as Nava mama was waiting for us. I ran to the KCC about 500m away to find the office is closed. Oh my gosh, how on earth we were gonna get the gate open and take the tuk-tuk out, what happened to our bags, I was near fainting. There were officers’ quarters across the road and they were empty. I ran here and there knocking on doors and windows but no one was there. I felt as if I’m acting in a ghost movie. I ran again to the back of the main building and there was a shower stall and to my amazement and annoyance, the fella who issued us tickets was brushing his teeth. He’d been in the toilet all that time and told me he had brought the bags to the bungalow and all we had to do was pull hard on the padlock and it would come off.

Feeling sheer frustrated, I ran back to the gate pulled hard on the padlock and away it came like a hot knife through butter. We came back to the KCC, collected our baggage and hit the road towards Meemure. It was going past 5.30pm we had to hurry coz we still had more than 25km to get there and the darkness can be pretty hazardous on that road.

Having travelled about 5km, Upali stopped the tuk-tuk all of a sudden to find that the left back tire had got a puncture. Fortunately, the spare wheel was there and another 15 mins time we were away finally leaving all the bad luck behind us.

At the KCC

At the KCC

What a wonderful song; never heard it though

What a wonderful song; never heard it though

The entrance...

The entrance…

Just getting started

Just getting started

Top of Dothalugala was covered with mist right throughout

Top of Dothalugala was covered with mist right throughout

Towards Loolwatte, beyond these mountains are the Kaikawala and Meemure villages

Towards Loolwatte, beyond these mountains are the Kaikawala and Meemure villages

Little did we know that this was gonna be the hikes of our lives totaling 100+km in four days...

Little did we know that this was gonna be the hikes of our lives totaling 100+km in four days…

Unbelievable scenery all along

Unbelievable scenery all along

The sky towards the valley was very blue with artistic clouds

The sky towards the valley was very blue with artistic clouds

Tony shooting his next movie. (Flying wihtout Wings)

Tony shooting his next movie. (Flying wihtout Wings)

Unfortunately, the wood getting rotten

Unfortunately, the wood getting rotten

Through the dense forest

Through the dense forest

Please adhere to this wherever you go

Please adhere to this wherever you go

Getting closer to the Cabin premises

Getting closer to the Cabin premises

The waterway just before the cabin

The waterway just before the cabin

There it is... slightly above is the kitchen

There it is… slightly above is the kitchen

Peeping through the window into the cabin

Peeping through the window into the cabin

GPS at the cabin

GPS at the cabin

This has some valuable info

This has some valuable info – Click Image to Enlarge

The kitchen door wide open so I decided to have a peek in search of something hot

The kitchen door wide open so I decided to have a peek in search of something hot

Unique experience

Unique experience

The Opening after the cabin. See the "Thrishul" shaped tracks. The left and middle connect to create the circular trail and the right trail with stones takes you to camp beds and the Dothalugala falls

The Opening after the cabin. See the “Thrishul” shaped tracks. The left and middle connect to create the circular trail and the right trail with stones takes you to camp beds and the Dothalugala falls

We chose the middle path; according to this the right one

We chose the middle path; according to this the right one

Beginning of a 4.5km leech-infested trek

Beginning of a 4.5km leech-infested trek

The forest welcome us with both hands

The forest welcome us with both hands

Tony, Dimuthu and Upali bringing the rear. This was his first-ever Dothalugala trek

Tony, Dimuthu and Upali bringing the rear. This was his first-ever Dothalugala trek

There hadn't been many visitors lately

There hadn’t been many visitors lately

The kingdom of mountains

The kingdom of mountains

Anyone there in the burrow?

Anyone there in the burrow?

Different shapes; different sizes

Different shapes; different sizes

Just like a perimeter wall protecting the whole area

Just like a perimeter wall protecting the whole area

My favourite places to picture.... young paddy fields captured from almost top of Dothalugala

My favourite places to picture…. young paddy fields captured from almost top of Dothalugala

Tiring journey but Mist and fresh air kept us revived

Tiring journey but Mist and fresh air kept us revived

Tony trying to squeeze the dust out of "Dum Gedi"

Tony trying to squeeze the dust out of “Dum Gedi”

Tiny cascades were coming down all around

Tiny cascades were coming down all around

The Dothalugala sloping towards KCC

The Dothalugala sloping towards KCC

Trying to hide from us

Trying to hide from us

The Dothalugala sloping towards KCC

The Dothalugala sloping towards KCC

Rising majestically and uncontested

Rising majestically and uncontested

The color contrast

The color contrast

It must be close now coz fever is getting at me big time

It must be close now coz fever is getting at me big time

Grapes??? Not a chance but like that green

Grapes??? Not a chance but like that green

They're panting

They’re panting

The last bit before the top

The last bit before the top

45 Finally at the top but all around is covered by the trees and hardly any gap

45 Finally at the top but all around is covered by the trees and hardly any gap

We reached slightly behind our schedule

We reached slightly behind our schedule

Getting down in a hurry fighting leeches all the way

Getting down in a hurry fighting leeches all the way

Land slides in side the forest

Land slides in side the forest

See the damage?

See the damage?

Our path was washed away and Tony trying his gymnastic skills to cross over

Our path was washed away and Tony trying his gymnastic skills to cross over

Climbing down were easier

Climbing down were easier

Wow...

Wow…

Mountains on the way down

Mountains on the way down

Couldn't get enough of this blue sky

Couldn’t get enough of this blue sky

Hi beauty

Hi beauty

Leech attacks while Tony was deducing the gender balance among leeches

Leech attacks while Tony was deducing the gender balance among leeches

The right trail at the beginning

The right trail at the beginning

It forked into two and the right one leading pass bird watching deck to the waterfall

It forked into two and the right one leading pass bird watching deck to the waterfall

Good advice

Good advice

Eurekaaaaa!!!!

Eurekaaaaa!!!!

Inviting pool

Inviting pool

She's a biggie

She’s a biggie

Not much water but enough to keep me interested

Not much water but enough to keep me interested

Pretty cold

Pretty cold

Flowing downhill

Flowing downhill

Enough to have three tents

Enough to have three tents

Bidding farewell

Bidding farewell

Icing on Dothalugala

Icing on Dothalugala

Getting towards the locked gate and all the chaos

Getting towards the locked gate and all the chaos

At the KCC, while searching for somebody frantically, I couldn't help taking these

At the KCC, while searching for somebody frantically, I couldn’t help taking these

At the KCC

At the KCC

Ticket office

Ticket office

Golf balls on trees???

Golf balls on trees???

Time to go, getting dark by the second

Time to go, getting dark by the second

We reached Meemure around 7.30pm and to my happiness Nava Mama’s house were illuminating with Electricity. Not Solar powered but by the re-stored hydro power plant. What can more I could’ve wished than lighting those people’s lives? I felt like jumping in the air and shouting from the top of Lakegala and say that we did it. Lakdasun forum helped bring this issue to Ana and Wije and as a result those innocent people got benefited. What a feat?

Nava mama telling his signature stories in the light now.... No more candles or dim-looking solar powered lights

Nava mama telling his signature stories in the light now…. No more candles or dim-looking solar powered lights

Nava mama came and gave us a warm welcome and his wife had prepared our meals and got worried us being late. After a quick wash we started chatting with Nava mama and he was very grateful for Ana and Wije for helping them out at that crucial time. Tony got very well along with Nava mama and they started talking about good old times about three decades before how the village was and all.

The time flew listening to their stories coz they were so interesting and I was practically hooked. It was during this conversation Tony asked if I knew how the drummers at Perahera got their beats or rhythms for which I had no idea. Then he described in the past those drummers had no particular rhythm to play their instruments and went on to reveal how the Thammatam players and later drummers (the chubby one, probably Yak Beraya) and later Horane players learned their beats. If you meet Tony, don’t forget to ask about this and the story related to this. Hopefully he’ll feel obliged to confide in you.

I then called Lasantha, my friend who was due to arrive on the following day, giving him directions and Upali’s contact number. I asked Nava mama to send Upali around 11am to Hunnasgiriya to pick him.

Finally around 11.30pm, we decided to call it a day and hit the bed. We had planned a long day for the following day and wanted to get our heads down as soon as we can for as long as possible. I was so happy that we could use real electricity coz I can remember last time we had to use the washroom in the candle light. We had to sit in the dark in his Verandah listening to his grand stories but those were things in the past. I hope before sleeping that those things will remain in the past and not bother them ever.

 

Day 02

Toddy Tapping

Tony usually gets up very early and I too joined him and the morning sun was up and fresh air mixed with bright sunlight was leaking through the window and the door hinges. We could hear birds chirping and leaves rustling in the morning wind. Such a relief to be among the nature away from the concrete jungle. The mobile that usually keeps ringing was at peace finally sleeping next to me on flight mode. I’m sure he too would’ve enjoyed this quietness away from yelling via him all the time.

I got up and came out to see Nava mama busy at work. He’d found a pot and was busily tying a wire around it making sure to hold it in place. When I asked what it was for, he surprised me by saying that he’s gonna do some toddy tapping and I can take pics. I asked during my last visit if it was possible to see one of them and he’d remembered. How nice and I just go my camera and started snapping away. He got the razor sharp knife in a handmade sheath and put it on the small of the back tucking it firmly into his sarong.

The tree was just behind the house and Tony joined me in seeing this miracle. He went to the base of the tree and did the typical rituals and started climbing up along the pole (most of these are bamboos) tied to the trunk of the tree with creepers (not strings or ropes) and the toddy pot hanging in one arm. It was so scary and fascinating sight too and I couldn’t take my eyes off. For a second I forgot that I was supposed to take pics.

When he reached the top, he started clearing about chopping away the dead leaves and settled nicely on a branch of a tree. Then removed the previous morning bucket and started cutting away at the flower. It was like a half-cut cauliflower and looked very brown and polished due to continuous cutting. Then when he was satisfied with the work he’d performed on the flower, replaced the bucket under the flower which was there with the new one and covered it with a polythene sheet in order to stop flies getting into the pot and came down. Throughout the day the freshly cut flower will pour juice into the pot.

Meanwhile Tony was playing Miss Meemure with a long Kithula Mala placing it on his head like long haired African beauty. Then it was time for us to go and have our breakfast coz we had a long day ahead of us doing one of the very difficult hikes around Meemure.

Major incomes are generated by these

Major incomes are generated by these

Garden fresh and we frequently had these.... Daiiiiiyaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Garden fresh and we frequently had these…. Daiiiiiyaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Horn of a Wild Boar, very strong

Horn of a Wild Boar, very strong

Mouth watering

Mouth watering

Early morning, busy at work

Early morning, busy at work

Getting ready

Getting ready

Way to go

Way to go

Finally on top, had to run here and there to get a good clear shot

Finally on top, had to run here and there to get a good clear shot

Clearing around

Clearing around

Cutting away at the flower

Cutting away at the flower

Bunch of ropes or a cauliflower cut in half???

Bunch of ropes or a cauliflower cut in half???

Tying polythene cover around to protect from flies and bees

Tying polythene cover around to protect from flies and bees

Everything ready

Everything ready

Everything done and dusted

Everything done and dusted

The African beauty with her wavy hair...

The African beauty with her wavy hair…

Nitro Cave Trail

Having witnessed firsthand how to tap toddy trees, we started on our breakfast while Nava mama’s wife was busy getting something ready for our lunch. However, Nava mama protested saying it won’t be hot and fresh by the time we have it midday and instead asked for some flour dough to make Roti at the cave. This immediately appealed to all of us and Tony was a strong supporter of this and with all our votes, his wife had to give in but warned us not catching a stomachache by eating raw flour.

Nava mama wrapped it in a plastic sheet and plucked some fresh chilies you saw above along with tomatoes and onions to go with roti. A flat iron plate was also packed to cook roti and we were ready to go. We could’ve taken the tuk-tuk about a halfway through but decided walk instead along the road passing Kaikawala too.

Morning walk was so refreshing and we enjoyed every bit of it. Tony was getting friendly with all the dogs along the road and they chose to follow him at a safe distance with contempt. The concrete paved road right up to our breaking point passing Kaikawala (Barber shop) helped us immensely coz the strenuous bit was yet to come. Nava mama showed us the canal made by villagers that take water through the village to the hydro power plant. The side walls are fractured in places and need to be renovated sooner rather than later as precious water is leaking through the gaps.

We stopped by the sign saying the Meemure sub post office is nearby. Then walked passing Kaikawala School where they have till GCE OL. At the huge bridge of Kaikawala, we stopped by the “Kaikawala Falls” (named by us and many more waterfalls had to be named on our trek downhill along Heen Ganga) and Nava mama wanted to show off his rock sliding skills. To my horror, Tony’s camera fell on the rock and my heart skipped a beat. However, Dimuthu managed to fix the issue and got it back working to my relief. What’s point going there without a camera? Then Nava mama came down the rock surface of Kaikawala falls (about 20+ft) and swam away in the base pool.

This time I duly recorded the action and posted it on YouTube. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeLtBscfCbE&feature=em-upload_owner)

Afterwards, we stepped up our gear and walked and entered a cross road at the Kaikawala barber shop and went through the village passing paddy fields and people working in the scorching hot sun. Lakegala was watching us from afar and she looked happy to see me again. There were so many other mountains surrounding us and it all looked like protecting Meemure and Kaikawala from the wicked world outside.

The highest mountain in the Knuckles region Gombani could also be seen and just below her was the Belum Gala which Nava mama said that we could climb and now it’s in my never ending to-do-list. Either side of Gombani were Andirigala (at the bottom is Nava mama’s house), Kalawel Bokka, Appala Pathana, Hellena Gala (like a parrot head) and Lakegala standing tall like bodyguards of the Great King, Ravana. We reached Ma Oya and crossed over on to the other side which is Hunuketadegalaha Village (don’t twist your tongue trying to pronounce that) and found yet another waterfall about 100m upstream.

Such a great beauty flowing down and in the middle as if jumping up before falling down again. We couldn’t think of a better name than Hunuketadegalaha Falls… Sorry folks if it’s difficult to say. The terrain got so difficult afterwards and we kept pushing to the limits, especially the youngest fellow in our team didn’t show a bit tired. We then came to the Na Ela Junction where there four tracks meet. (Kalugala, Karambaketiya, Na Ela and Kaikawala via Hunuketadegalaha)

We took the left leading to Na Ela and soon as we turned there was this small house and a girl was making Jaggery out of toddy on the specially designed stove. Having refilled our water bottle and getting a much needed break we decided to take the track towards Nitro Cave. Passing a bunt we came to the Na Ela which goes downhill till she merges with Heen Ganga between Kaikawala and Meemure. This is where I felt like kicking myself for not taking anything, even some biscuits coz we were ravenous after a tiring walk but only the refreshing water of Na Ela was there.

Tony and I gave a water therapy for our battered legs while Dimuthu went in search of fish and prawns in the waterway without success. The wind was so comforting and there was this tiny waterfall about 15ft and you know the drill by now. She is now “Nitro Falls”, named by us. I felt like sleeping on the rock surface but we had a deadline to meet and we couldn’t waste anytime cooking our Roti here. So motivated by ever-growing hunger, we hit the last bit of our journey climbing up though the dense forest about 2-3km to the destination, Nitro Cave. The path hadn’t been used lately but still visible and Nava mama had more senses we could imagine so there was no fear of getting lost.

Finally, Eureka, the Cave was visible and we stepped on the gas. It was a huge cave jutting out of a rocky mountain and now occupied by many thousands of bats who got very angry by our intrusion. You can climb up and see the inside of the cave even though there’s nothing much other than hundreds of tons of bat excrement but the place looked lived on. There were a couple of sticks to help you get on to the rock slab from where you can see the mountains far away, especially my beloved Lakegala showing herself beautifully.

We came down and along the rocky path went a bit up and came across a huge wasp nest full of wasps and had to be careful not to arouse them. Finally we settled about 100m away where there was this tiny stream of water and got busy with our Roti making. Dimuthu and Nava mama got busy making a hearth with rocks while Tony got all the stuff out and started washing onions, tomatoes and chilies. If you wonder then what I was doing, just picturing all this was my duty and they were better at what they did and didn’t wanna be a nuisance.

We found some dry twigs and got the fire going and on top went the flat iron roti maker and Nava mama was busy breaking small balls out of the dough and spreading it evenly on the surface and putting it this side and the other nicely burning both sides and I was getting mighty hungry. Tony and Dimuthu started making our Salad with freshly cut onions, chilies and tomatoes and Nava mama had brought an orange to supplement lime and we were good to go. The lunch was superb and we tucked in like a pack of wolves and what a feast it turned out to be.

I managed to record a short video and uploaded it to YouTube and it’s here for you to check.

The tasty water made our thirst and tiredness vanish into thin air and we were ready to get back after about 10min break. It was one helluva hike and we were looking forward to the return journey when Nava mama surprised us by asking if we wanna take a different route to the village. I’d never dream of saying no, so was Tony and Dimuthu and we were soon on our way towards Na Ela where we were supposed to get along the Na Ela till we came up to Heen Ganga about 8km downhill.

You know who these are. In the middle is not a cowboy but our Nava mama

You know who these are. In the middle is not a cowboy but our Nava mama

An aggressive water buffalo won't let us pass. See the pinkish ears, but don’t think you can see the steam rising through the nostrils

An aggressive water buffalo won’t let us pass. See the pinkish ears, but don’t think you can see the steam rising through the nostrils

Right across the road...

Right across the road…

Katuwel Batu

Katuwel Batu

Hanging beauty

Hanging beauty

About 100m away... now lightened free of charge by Meemure Society

About 100m away… now lightened free of charge by Meemure Society

Nava mama showing us the man-made canal that takes water to the Hydro power plant... it needs restoration too as the bunt is fractured in many places leaking precious water

Nava mama showing us the man-made canal that takes water to the Hydro power plant… it needs restoration too as the bunt is fractured in many places leaking precious water

Mountains beyond Kaikawala

Mountains beyond Kaikawala

Gorgeous view

Gorgeous view

Kaikawala Falls

Kaikawala Falls

Base pool

Base pool

Ma Oya going down...

Ma Oya going down…

The stuntman is back

The stuntman is back

Sliding down captured simultaneously recording

Sliding down captured simultaneously recording

"How was it?"

“How was it?”

The mountains in the horizon

The mountains in the horizon

Side view glance at Kaikawala Falls

Side view glance at Kaikawala Falls

Endless mountains with lush greenery

Endless mountains with lush greenery

Heading towards Ma Oya crossing point

Heading towards Ma Oya crossing point

Here we are, water levels were low so crossing was no prob.... You can see pillars down which are the remains of a bridge yet to be built

Here we are, water levels were low so crossing was no prob…. You can see pillars down which are the remains of a bridge yet to be built

Hunuketadegalaha Falls

Hunuketadegalaha Falls

Cool water helped us replenish our stocks

Cool water helped us replenish our stocks

There she's jumping in the middle

There she’s jumping in the middle

She's small but gorgeous

She’s small but gorgeous

A friendly person we met on the river bank

A friendly person we met on the river bank

Endless mountains

Endless mountains

What a contrast in colors

What a contrast in colors

Pano with the mountain range. (From left: Hellena Gala, Kalawal Bokka, Gombaniya, Belum Gala, Andirigala, Appala Pathana)... Hope I got them all correct

Pano with the mountain range. (From left: Hellena Gala, Kalawal Bokka, Gombaniya, Belum Gala, Andirigala, Appala Pathana)… Hope I got them all correct

Gombani in the middle and towards her right slope is the Belum Gala

Gombani in the middle and towards her right slope is the Belum Gala

More majestic views

More majestic views

Na Ela Junction (Tony-Kalugala footpath through the forest// Nava Mama-Karambaketiya//Dimuthu-Na Ela//Me-Kaikawala)

Na Ela Junction (Tony-Kalugala footpath through the forest// Nava Mama-Karambaketiya//Dimuthu-Na Ela//Me-Kaikawala)

Single-horned beast found at Na Ela

Single-horned beast found at Na Ela

What a simple house; This is where we met that girl making Jaggery

What a simple house; This is where we met that girl making Jaggery

I'm sure you recognize this.... the fella wearing this decided to abandon it

I’m sure you recognize this…. the fella wearing this decided to abandon it

Jaggery stove made out of a barrel

Jaggery stove made out of a barrel

Jaggery getting thicken ever so slowly

Jaggery getting thicken ever so slowly

I suppose you can't call this a Skeleton of a Butterfly

I suppose you can’t call this a Skeleton of a Butterfly

The bunt doesn't have enough water to retain

The bunt doesn’t have enough water to retain

There can't be a beautiful mountain than her

There can’t be a beautiful mountain than her

Committing suicide... I removed the fella but he went back to the water... must've been let down by his wife.... (Tony, the animal specialist, confirmed this)

Committing suicide… I removed the fella but he went back to the water… must’ve been let down by his wife…. (Tony, the animal specialist, confirmed this)

Na Ela crossing point

Na Ela crossing point

There's the Nitro Ella, about 15ft

There’s the Nitro Ella, about 15ft

Not much water but enough to look nice

Not much water but enough to look nice

4-man reconnaissance team

4-man reconnaissance team

Commander is checking the path ahead

Commander is checking the path ahead

Birdie nest

Birdie nest

Hard climbing

Hard climbing

A much relieved Tony looking flabbergasted at the cave

A much relieved Tony looking flabbergasted at the cave

Nava mama, not a bit tired, carrying onto the cave

Nava mama, not a bit tired, carrying onto the cave

We made a Toy Red Indian with a feather and a mushroomy stick

We made a Toy Red Indian with a feather and a mushroomy stick

The cave is jutting out of the rock

The cave is jutting out of the rock

Wasps busy at work....

Wasps busy at work….

Climbed up Nava mama and Tony in the background busily picturing

Climbed up Nava mama and Tony in the background busily picturing

Nava Mama's skills helping to explore the unreachable

Nava Mama’s skills helping to explore the unreachable

The ground is covered with sand mixed bat excrement with worms

The ground is covered with sand mixed bat excrement with worms

Looking out of the gloom

Looking out of the gloom

The walls are all rocks

The walls are all rocks

Getting down was yet another fiasco

Getting down was yet another fiasco

Finally some breathing space

Finally some breathing space

The rock carves in further

The rock carves in further

Met a similar fella at Morning Side too

Met a similar fella at Morning Side too

Going further up looking for a place to make lunch

Going further up looking for a place to make lunch

Finally all set up

Finally all set up

The tiny water stream where we collected ours....

The tiny water stream where we collected ours….

The fire is on fire and our dough is resting and onions and other stuff ready for chopping

The fire is on fire and our dough is resting and onions and other stuff ready for chopping

Tony playing the chef....

Tony playing the chef….

Busy at work.... Nava mama very good at it

Busy at work…. Nava mama very good at it

Can't wait anymore....

Can’t wait anymore….

All three busily doing the final touches....

All three busily doing the final touches….

Eat.....

Eat…..

United black ants carrying their share

United black ants carrying their share

Good bye.... got a long way back

Good bye…. got a long way back

Trekking along the Na Ela from Nitro Cave

I practically ran climbed hill and was back at Na Ela crossing point (near Nitro Falls) in record breaking time and gave my feet another cold water therapy. Couldn’t feel like taking them out, just wanted to lie down on the rock and let the nature envelope me with her arms. The rest of the crew came about 20mins later very sluggishly coz the tiredness has by now set in big time.

They too wanted a piece of that calmness and lied down heavily sighing deeply. We had by then done nearly 20km or more most of it hiking and felt dog tired. Nava mama said that we now have to walk downwards along the Na Ela and I felt happy but it was one of the hardest things to do as we had to keep on constant alert jumping from rock to rock and avoid boulders and obstacles and getting back in thorny jungle.

The walk reminded me of Grand Canyons in the US as the either side of the river rose huge rock boulders in various shades of brown. The water levels were pretty low but it was so hard to walk, we had to jump and we soon arrived at a massive earth slip along the Nitro Cave mountain right down to the river itself. It had carried a huge tree all the way and dumped on the river bed. All these had been due to the heavy rains in last January which moved the massive concrete bridge at Kaikawala by 6 inches.

Suddenly Nava mama spotted something in a shallow rock pool and was trying to take it out of the water when we saw what it was. That horrible looking white skin covered bag like thing had belonged to a wild boar mother. We then saw blood had trickled down a flat rock where apparently she was butchered by the poachers or hunters. They had erected a cross bar where they had made a fire supposedly roasting the fellow. They had removed those fetuses (we counted 6 in all sticking out like balloons out of it) and dumped in the water.

Nava mama and Tony with the help of Dimuthu took it out of the water using a stick and left it on the cross bar as it would’ve spoiled the water. That was such a horrible thing to look at but I took some pics and was pondering whether to put it on the report or not. I decided to put it anyway and hopefully admin will decide if it should be censored or not. Just after that was the Sri Lankan Grand Canyons as we called it and was a magnificent thing to look. It made it all the more difficult for us to move to the other side but we managed it with a great difficulty.

Passing that we came to a somewhat larger waterfall and the name given to her was “Na Ella”, even though Tony suggested “Samanala Ella” coz there were plenty of them but I wouldn’t have any of it. She was about 50ft in height and unreachable via a path. Only option is to walk up or climb down along the Na Ela. There were flocks of butterflies on the ground and was wondering if they were feeding something from the earth.

We then had to abandon the river as the going was very hard and Nava mama led us through the forest full of thorny plants. We had to be very careful so as not to slip into the river about 100ft below. It was pretty dark inside the forest as sun had no way of penetrating that tree cover. We then saw another waterfall about 20ft but couldn’t get up close. The name came effortlessly (now I’m very good at it) as “Katu Ella”. If you wonder why Katu Ella, we usually say “Maara Kattak” for something very difficult. It was something similar getting to her so the name stuck really well.

Another waterfall was round the corner, would you believe it? I was fast running out of names and had to come up with something fast. It was in two parts totaling about 8ft in height and “Galpoththa Ella” seemed a better name. Tony said if we continue for some more, we’re bound to run out of names pretty soon. Afterwards, to our relief, we got onto a nearby paddy field running parallel to the river and the going got easier. However when we entered the abandoned paddy field, we barely saw another huge falls, around 40ft around the river bend but couldn’t see her properly and no name was required.

We joined the Heen Ganga crossed over to the next side where people of Kaikawala busily working on their lush paddy fields. I noticed that the greenery of these fields is not so lush as much as Meemure. I can’t think of why but it was very noticeable.

The earth slip from Nitro Cave mountain

The earth slip from Nitro Cave mountain

Massive tree taken for a ride

Massive tree taken for a ride

Strenuous hike downhill

Strenuous hike downhill

Rocks in various sizes

Rocks in various sizes

There's the ugly one we got out of water. Dried blood marks are still visible

There’s the ugly one we got out of water. Dried blood marks are still visible

We just left it there. This is where they had apparently roasted the fellow

We just left it there. This is where they had apparently roasted the fellow

SL Grand Canyon

SL Grand Canyon

These rocks might have come crawling with the flood waters in Jan

These rocks might have come crawling with the flood waters in Jan

Top of Na Ella....

Top of Na Ella….

Here she is.... not full flow

Here she is…. not full flow

The reason why we thought of calling her Samanala Ella

The reason why we thought of calling her Samanala Ella

Pretty high even without high heels

Pretty high even without high heels

Inviting base pool

Inviting base pool

The Trio

The Trio

Leaving her behind

Leaving her behind

Nava mama looking for something

Nava mama looking for something

Plenty of tiny cascades

Plenty of tiny cascades

Katu Ella

Katu Ella

Up close barred by those branches

Up close barred by those branches

Top part zoomed in from far away

Top part zoomed in from far away

Time to move on

Time to move on

Galpoththa Ella

Galpoththa Ella

Both parts in view.... tiny one

Both parts in view…. tiny one

This had once been an Anicut

This had once been an Anicut

Below the Anicut, we took to the paddy fields from the corner left

Below the Anicut, we took to the paddy fields from the corner left

Snake's

Snake’s

We missed that big waterfall just

We missed that big waterfall just

Ready to cross over Heen Ganga

Ready to cross over Heen Ganga

Lush green

Lush green

Overhead view of far fields

Overhead view of far fields

Simply awesome

Simply awesome

Found it a bit less grandeur than Meemure

Found it a bit less grandeur than Meemure

Re-awakening Meemure – Re-stored Hydro Power Project

Walking along the lush paddy fields revived our sapped energy. The sun was going down below Andirigala and Appala Pathana mountains and I wanted to hurry and go see the power plant as I had strict instructions to take pics of the renovation work and do a short video from Ana. I didn’t wanna disappoint them at any rate.

We reached the point where the used water coming out of the power house via a tunnel and there was plenty of water gushing out in a mad rush. I was very happy to see the state of the power house and Nava mana in a humorous gesture switched off the main switch joking now they don’t have power and switched on again saying now they do.

It showed how relieved that person was. It was running smoothly and we didn’t feel any vibration in the plant and they had used more screws and bolts to strengthen the whole machine. Meemure society has got hold of a boy (Jayasinghe Banda) who’s willing to do the night shift at the power house for Rs. 4000/-. It’s surprising how small that amount is but that boy had volunteered saying he doesn’t need much as it’s something he’s doing for the village. He lives about 1km uphill where the path to the power plant starts.

I took pics of the plant and did the short video too which you can see here:

Afterwards, it was time to go back to Nava mama’s place for the night. We still had to climb the hill to get to the foot path where the main tank of the power house is built. It’s about 50ft in length and over 10ft in width and a height of another 10+ft. It retains the water and sends to the power house via a pipeline about 28cm in diameter. Unlike in all the other plants I’ve seen, this is a half inch PVC pipeline whereas most of the power houses use iron pipelines. The path the pipeline is laid is supported by concrete pillars but we saw at certain places there a lose points which might endanger the pipeline.

We then walked up the path towards the main road and met the boy, Jayasinghe Banda and the person who stays for that night, Ukkubanda mama. Nava mana and the society have done a roster so that every night along with Jayasinghe Banda, someone from Meemure who’s using electricity must come and stay at the plant. If they can’t come, they have to pay Rs. 500/- to the society. I found this to be a very good option given the fact that they need to protect this very badly.

Along with them I met Mr. W. G. Samarakoon who’s the postman. I’m sure he has to walk many a miles every day delivering letters to the remote parts of those villages.

From the Meemure society, they give free electricity to the following places:

  1. Post Office
  2. Dispensary
  3. Kaikawala and Meemure Schools
  4. Samurdhi Bank and the Office
  5. Grama Niladhari Office
  6. Meemure Temple
  7. Agricultural Office

There’s been lot of charity work going on as well and it was so nice to see these people enjoy their lives. The Dendro plant is about 50m towards the village but I decided to take some pics on our way back to Hunnasgiriya as it was very dark. We got into the main road passing the post office and walked the last few kilometers thanks to my torch.

We found Lasantha (my other friend who missed out two days of fun) was waiting all fresh and ready to hit the road but we were exhausted. I remembered sending replacement soldiers to replace the battered ones in the battlefields. The legs needed so much rest and after a quick wash and dinner it was time to hit the pillow hard. We had a very long day the following day with a night in Narangamuwa. We had walked more than 35km throughout the day.

The water gushing out the power plant

The water gushing out the power plant

Part of the plant

Part of the plant

Newly installed part with more screws

Newly installed part with more screws

So much to capture

So much to capture

Trying to get as much as possible in one go

Trying to get as much as possible in one go

No vibration detected

No vibration detected

Any idea what these say?

Any idea what these say?

The meter board but I couldn’t make head nor tail of this

The meter board but I couldn’t make head nor tail of this

Power house

Power house

The PVC pipeline laid amid the forest supported by concrete pillars at intervals

The PVC pipeline laid amid the forest supported by concrete pillars at intervals

This hike was more challenging

This hike was more challenging

The tank that holds water

The tank that holds water

From left: Nava Mama, Jayasinghe Banda, Ukkubanda and Samarakoon the postman

From left: Nava Mama, Jayasinghe Banda, Ukkubanda and Samarakoon the postman

Free electricity at work

Free electricity at work

Closed for the day...

Closed for the day…

Day 03

Meemure – Reassa Trail

Morning arrived and brought with it authentic fragrances of the trees, earth and the wind. I jumped out of the mattress and went in search of Nava mama who’d done the ritual with toddy tapping. Got washed and packed our bags as we had to stay overnight at Narangamuwa. We tried to take as few items as possible since climbing with a huge backpack gonna test your spine and knees.

After a breakfast of tasty rice and curry we were good to go. Nenda gave us our own packs of lunch to have on the way but Nava mama packed some onions, tomatoes and chilies as usual. We were not hoping to cook a meal but I knew he was up to something.

We walked towards the famous Mee Tree in the center of Meemure village near the primary school. We met Athula (hope you can remember him, he was the one who took us in our previous visit to Meemure) helping do a stone wall around a neighbor’s land. They don’t use cement; just keep one rock on top the other balancing it nicely. This reminded me of Delft Island where they’d done the same with corals. Nava mama had got a call the previous night confirming the arrival of some French tourists but he couldn’t go meet them as we had fully booked him.

Instead, he asked Athula to go to Narangamuwa and pick them and bring via the circular trail to Meemure the following day and the same thing we were gonna do. Lady Lakegala was waiting for us patiently having cleared all the clouds around her so that she looks very appealing. I couldn’t keep my eyes off her no matter how much I look at her. Nobody was gonna take me away anytime soon coz I was busy with my camera picturing her in every angle possible.

After sometime, we crossed the bridge and started our journey towards Reassa which is a part of Lakegala but can’t be seen from Meemure. That’s where Ravana’s palace was built and below his tank. Apparently Rama had attacked it with a special weapon (Possibly a nuclear attack in modern day descriptions. Otherwise there could’ve been no way a conventional weapon done so much damage to that gigantic rock. Even a 2000lb Joint Direct Attack Munition wouldn’t have inflicted so much damage) and that arrow had gone clean through that part of Lakegala like a knife through butter completely demolishing it sending tons of rocks to the tank and the nearby Narangamuwa.

— Reassa means maze in English which is a place full of obstacles and difficult to find your path and can easily get lost. As many believe Reassa is not what you call the broken side of the Lakegala, but the area where those chunks of rocks fell covering the Tank and the nearby lands of Narangamuwa. If you ever venture into the path towards Narangamuwa from the broken part of Lakegala, you’ll know what it really means as it’s very difficult to find your way to the village through the forest and endless rock boulders. —

We bypassed the “Akula Ella” which you came across in my previous report and the name was suggested by Nava mama. She was just a trickle going down the rock surface now. Then it was familiar territory right up to the Lakegala base. We did it last time with Athula and had a nice cool dip in the artistic rock pool at the base and was hoping to do the same this time around too.

However, when finally arrived at the place, I was so disappointed to see the rock pool has turned into a junkyard full of leaves as the water levels were too low to send them away. We rested our feet and munched on rice crackers. I couldn’t afford to take the risk of not taking any snacks to munch throughout the journey so stocked as much as we could carry. Meanwhile Nava mama was busy around a rock plucking some plants to find they are Gotukola.

This is the reason he packed all those orange, tomatoes, onions and chilies in the first place. Now we were gonna make some delicious Gotukola salad. However, we had no container to make it but I just left it at that. Then we were onto new territory taking the left turn around Lakegala and soon stopped at the tiny waterway to fill our waterbottles.

Suddenly, Nava mama warned us of a tree called “Maassa” which makes your skin itch and swell if you come into contact with it. Should you wash the area with water, you’re bound to get high fever according to folklore. We had to stay alert for about 1km until the danger had passed.

The treatment for this is to apply Kurahan flour mixed with coconut milk having scraped the infected area with a knife. (I hope you remember applying coconut oil when touched by a caterpillar after scraping with a knife. Kahambiliya tree is a similar one that we very well know of). There was this funny treatment of applying just coconut milk on the infected area and let a cat lick the area with its rough tongue.

Nava mama then showed us Meadiya Creepers which they used to tie the poles and sticks when building mud huts as real ropes are hard to come by. If you saw Toddy tapping pics, those poles were also tied to the tree with these creepers.

We then reached the Komala Pathana and started having our lunch when Nava mama brought a flat rock about 2 square feet. He then washed all the Gotukola and cut them with his knife and put them on the washed out rock surface and mixed it with chopped onions, chilies and tomatoes. Squeezed out orange added that wonderful flavor and we tucked in hungrily. The flavors started exploding in our mouths with those crunchy onions and fresh Gotukola.

We suddenly started a steep climb and Nava mama kept looking for any danger such as Wild animals, wasps or any traps in the jungle. Attempting these trails without a guide will put you in endless troubles and dangers. Nava mama showed us Black Monkey about a km away and I tried to see the fellow with my own eyes with a great difficulty. Then I used my tiny point and shoot and got a decent enough pic which made Nava mama very keen on it.

He was asking all about cameras and said that he’s gonna get one soon as he comes across many interesting things that go without a record since he hasn’t got a camera. “I’ll get one when the peppers are sold” he kept telling me. Imagine the things he gets to see in those un-ventured areas. We haven’t seen even one hundredth of what he’s seen. Soon the forest disappeared paving the way to small plants then and there. We were nearing the top and the surrounding looked fabulous even though the scorching sun kept pounding on us.

Suddenly it was right in front of us and I felt mesmerized of what we saw. The Narangamuwa side of Lakegala has been cleanly cut away as if a slice of a loaf of bread and the height is so much we couldn’t gauge it. However, Nava mama threw a stone to the bottom and it took 11 seconds for us to hear the boom. Must be a long way down and I suspect it to be around 600-800ft.

We were very little below the top of Lakegala but couldn’t climb up from that side as the mountain is divided in the middle. Only way up is to take the right trail up at the base of Lakegala where we rested. We took many pics and could see Narangamuwa faraway specially the Temple and Stupa along with those beautiful paddy fields. There was a huge rocky mountain towards left of Narangamuwa and on it two openings showing that they were caves dug into the rock.

Nava mama explained that those were said to be the storage of King Ravana for grains, especially paddy. He’d been inside of them and said the length is about 70ft and height and width around 20ft each. The shape is like a cone overall. Apparently there are remains of those grains still in those caves. They are called “Kapuwatugala Caves”.

We stayed there about 40mins and decided to head towards Narangamuwa as it was another long hike through the maze (Reassa). On the way we were to pass the foot of that rock where the caves are dug in.

Lasantha fresh looking but we are no worse

Lasantha fresh looking but we are no worse

Doing the wall with just putting rocks on top of each other

Doing the wall with just putting rocks on top of each other

Rice mill

Rice mill

My Love...

My Love…

Going towards the bridge through sawed paddy fields

Going towards the bridge through sawed paddy fields

Crossing the bridge the crew in single file

Crossing the bridge the crew in single file

No matter whether you're young or old, you have to work as much as others

No matter whether you’re young or old, you have to work as much as others

Gigantic

Gigantic

The scenery along is worth the whole journey

The scenery along is worth the whole journey

Getting a rest and Lasantha kept looking for signal

Getting a rest and Lasantha kept looking for signal

Collecting firewood...

Collecting firewood…

You could see the Maediya Creepers. Just below is the Akula Falls

You could see the Maediya Creepers. Just below is the Akula Falls

Differently shaped Lakegala when you go around her

Differently shaped Lakegala when you go around her

Familiar Territory. Tony's with his two sticks that helped him right throughout

Familiar Territory. Tony’s with his two sticks that helped him right throughout

Hurrahhh... finally the base of Lakegala

Hurrahhh… finally the base of Lakegala

Nava mama washing the freshly plucked Gotukola to be kept for later

Nava mama washing the freshly plucked Gotukola to be kept for later

Can you see the dark base pool? This was the artistic pool where we had a cool dip. But not this time

Can you see the dark base pool? This was the artistic pool where we had a cool dip. But not this time

Mountians far away. If you wanna climb the Lakegala, the trail is slightly to the left of the pic

Mountians far away. If you wanna climb the Lakegala, the trail is slightly to the left of the pic

Maaussa - The poisonous tree...

Maaussa – The poisonous tree…

Nice doorway created by those smashed rocks from Lakegala

Nice doorway created by those smashed rocks from Lakegala

Nice Pus Wela

Nice Pus Wela

Another skull of a buffalo

Another skull of a buffalo

This is another piece of bone but looked like a head of its own with eyes and the mouth

This is another piece of bone but looked like a head of its own with eyes and the mouth

The faraway black monkey which made Nava mama wanna get a camera ASAP

The faraway black monkey which made Nava mama wanna get a camera ASAP

This is not wasps, but ants

This is not wasps, but ants

Another massive landslide

Another massive landslide

Funny shaped in the middle

Funny shaped in the middle

This is good to have as a plant in your garden. Name is "Baludan"

This is good to have as a plant in your garden. Name is “Baludan”

Komala Pathana.... ready to lunch

Komala Pathana…. ready to lunch

The water was getting very scarce to find

The water was getting very scarce to find

Nava mama the explorer

Nava mama the explorer

The all-rounder: Guide, Host, Cook and so much more

The all-rounder: Guide, Host, Cook and so much more

I know this makes your mouth water....

I know this makes your mouth water….

They can't wait anymore

They can’t wait anymore

Tony on crutches?

Tony on crutches?

Destination is close by.... we finally arrived in this open area along the climb

Destination is close by…. we finally arrived in this open area along the climb

So much to cover....

So much to cover….

This is called "Kahata" and they cook a nice curry with those fruits

This is called “Kahata” and they cook a nice curry with those fruits

The top of Lakegala and we were heading to the left. It's separate in the middle as a result you can't cross from this side to the top

The top of Lakegala and we were heading to the left. It’s separate in the middle as a result you can’t cross from this side to the top

Tired but happy bunch

Tired but happy bunch

Here it is. The straight line on the left is where the rock is cleanly shaved by that arrow

Here it is. The straight line on the left is where the rock is cleanly shaved by that arrow

I'll let you get the pic

I’ll let you get the pic

Imagine the height

Imagine the height

This place used to have Ravana's tank but got all covered up with those chunks of rocks... Narangamuwa is far away

This place used to have Ravana’s tank but got all covered up with those chunks of rocks… Narangamuwa is far away

Can see a glimpse of Narangamuwa from here

Can see a glimpse of Narangamuwa from here

This is not the summit, it's on the other side

This is not the summit, it’s on the other side

The models were back

The models were back

I'm like the Atlas who carries the world

I’m like the Atlas who carries the world

We had no idea the following day we'd walk along these paddy fields

We had no idea the following day we’d walk along these paddy fields

Tried my best to get this

Tried my best to get this

My fav pano

My fav pano

From Narangamuwa to Meemure, the path is beyond those rocks

From Narangamuwa to Meemure, the path is beyond those rocks

See the Stupa at Narangamuwa Temple

See the Stupa at Narangamuwa Temple

Nava mama throwing a stone and Tony measuring the time

Nava mama throwing a stone and Tony measuring the time

Such depth

Such depth

Time to head back as we had a long walk to Narangamuwa

Time to head back as we had a long walk to Narangamuwa

Reassa – Narangamuwa Trail

On our way to Narangamuwa, Tony’s shoe broke and fortunately he’d bought a pair of rubber slippers. It was climbing down time and we soon entered into a nearly dried up river on a rocky bed. There was still a bit of water stubbornly flowing in the middle but we had no such difficulty in tackling the path. On and off Tony had to resort to foul wheel bringing back his childhood abilities.

Afterwards we were soon enveloped by the jungle and it was pretty dark but Nava mama wasn’t gonna miss the trail. He did it after a very long time still managed to guide us through the correct path using his own abilities and some land marks such as trees and rocks.

We came across a funny shaped tree which had a kind of archway that we could walk through. Soon Nava mama identified the Jack tree where we can go to the Kapuwatugala Cave. It was getting close to 6pm and Nava mama still wanted to climb up about 60ft and get us some pics. I knew it wasn’t a good idea even for an experience person like him so asked not to do it. I said we could always come back later and explore it and he very reluctantly gave in.

There was another cave at the bottom about 30ft long and 6-10ft in depth. There were trees grown at the mouth of the caves covering it from prying eyes. Looking back we saw a differently shaped Lakegala mainly due to the broken piece of her. Lakegala is the separating point of Meemure and Narangamuwa.

Then we entered the village and walked passing paddy fields till we reached the Narangamuwa town Centre. It’s powered by the main line and had no problem with electricity like Meemure. Nava mama’s relative (one of his nephews) was there waiting for us. We were to stay at his place more to the irritation of Nava mama’s younger brother. He said that Nava mama came to Narangamuwa after a long time and wanted him to stay at his place.

We had cream soda to pamper our parched mouths and it felt like the best in the world. Nava mama in the meantime bought the rations for our dinner and breakfast. It was very dark and we had our torches thankfully along with theirs. Another 2km walk brought us to one edge of the village and beyond that was the Knuckles protected area. They said to our horror that the Elephants come to the village and even to the garden but no damage so far being done. I guess either the villagers and elephants live in harmony or the worst is yet to happen.

We were so tired but were warmly welcomed by them. Immediately the house became like a bees’ nest everyone trying to see to our needs and Nava mama kept boasting that we were the ones who initiated the restoration work of the power plant so VIP treatment was around the corner. After a very cold bath, we had a delicious dinner and juicy home grown papaya. What more could a man ask for other than a cozy bed which was exactly what we got in the end.

However, Nava mama’s brother kept telling us some of the folklore and it was very interesting to hear they talk about all these things. It was time to grab the pillow and dream about my Lakegala so we turned in for the night.

The Baby Tony learning to walk

The Baby Tony learning to walk

The dried up river on the rocky bed

The dried up river on the rocky bed

Looks like a Wadi

Looks like a Wadi

Odd rock pool or the other

Odd rock pool or the other

Another pic of the team....

Another pic of the team….

This is a river nearly dried up

This is a river nearly dried up

The tree archway

The tree archway

It really was a Maze

It really was a Maze

The cave at the base

The cave at the base

Another one just above

Another one just above

With the flash on.... not so big

With the flash on…. not so big

The trees are masking the entrance of Kapuwatugala Cave

The trees are masking the entrance of Kapuwatugala Cave

Differently shaped Lakegala

Differently shaped Lakegala

Up close

Up close

This is where they keep the calves...

This is where they keep the calves…

Getting to the town was very tiring

Getting to the town was very tiring

Day 04

Narangamuwa – Meemure Circular Trail

We slept without a hitch and no fear whatsoever for elephants trampling on us. We got up to another fantastic day and the sky was crystal clear and everything was looking as best as anything can look. We saw Kumara’s (our host) son was already dressed up and remember it’s Mon and the schools are still functioning. Very good to see him in pristine white shirt and royal blue shorts which came sweet memories flooding back to me.

The kitchen was very busy and Kumara’s wife was multitasking while preparing our breakfast and getting her son and daughter ready for school and Montessori. We had wash and came to a sumptuous breakfast and wolfed it down like no tomorrow. We were planning on coming back to Colombo the same day and had to hurry and get back to Meemure. Still a journey of 16+km. I was already tired and wished we could stay that day as well but my office was not forgiving any more.

We had breakfast and managed to get a pic of Kumara’s little girl who looked like an angel with her uniform up. She shyly posed for a pic and I got the whole family to pose too even though Kumara’s wife was very reluctant. We bid our thanks and farewell to those wonderful people and got back on the road. On the way we stopped by at Nava Mama’s brother’s place for a glass of water.

We walked through the paddy field which we saw from the top of the broken bit and it was simply amazing. We saw an old lady working on a grain field (Mun Eta) and the lush greenery of the plants were very adorable. We came across and got into the road to find Athula coming to Narangamuwa to collect those French foreigners.

Everybody seems to know everybody else as both the villagers are relatives in one way or the other due to marriages between them. We met a person who had collected his daily ration of Toddy and Nava mama and Tony who were creeping behind us had managed to help themselves to a cup or two. We soon entered the jungle and saw a some holy tree with tree branches hanging. Nava mama did the rituals asking for protection along the journey by hanging a branch of our own.

The god they worshipped was called Wanniya Bandara. He has many other names such as “Kele Bandara, Aluth Bandara, Biso Bandara, Gale Bandara, Devatha Bandara and Dedimunda Bandara”. Different areas used different names, according to Nava mama but the same god.

—It was a walk through the “Donduru Weddha Mala Thenna” (Where the Donduru Weddha was killed). Nava mama said the story. There had been a Weddha called Donduru who lived there and no villages nearby not even Meemure or Narangamuwa. One day he met this hunter and they got very friendly. The hunter went and told his brother about the Weddha and the area where he roamed and suggested it was ideal to start a new village. However, Weddha wouldn’t hear of it and one day they took him hunting and killed the fellow. Afterwards they started the villages Meemure and Narangamuwa. —

This is just one of many stories how the Meemure and Narangamuwa were found. Then he told us another story how the Meemure and Lakegala were named.

—The great rock called “Maha Pabbatha” became Lakegala and many other names had been used where it ended up Lakegala.

  1. Lankagala
  2. Ilakkagala – Where the rock was targeted.
  3.  Lanka Pabbatha
  4. Yakgala – Where the devils (Yakun) stayed

—Meemure was initially called “Maha Pabbatha Gramaya” and descended from “Maha Mure” and became “Meemure”. —

We soon came to a flat rock where we stopped for a quick biscuit and some water. To our amazement, we saw Athula and the gang of French girls coming round the corner. It had been pretty fast. However while I was taking some pics we heard a big thud to find one of the girls were on her all four having tripped over a rock.

Tony rushed to help talking in rapid English with an Arctic accent but those French understood very little of it. Tony was wishing he could speak French and we had to pacify him all the way. We left them to have their own picnic and hurried on. Nava mama showed us a place where a massive tree had fallen and claimed three lives long time ago. Apparently one villager had grown sweet potatoes nearby and burnt the base of the tree to remove it. But that tree hadn’t gone without taking his revenge.

Yet another place, like a quarry some villages about 50 years ago had seen a Female Devil (Yakinna) while trying to dig a treasure. They had run all the way to the Meemure. One of them is still alive and he had confided in Nava mama the incident. Most terrifying moment came when we had to pass a wasp nest about 5ft away from it. We crept like a bunch of thieves after some treasure when the household is asleep. Fortunately they were busy at work and not bothered with us.

Finally we reached the outskirts of the Meemure and felt very glad coz of never ending exhaustion. Panic was setting in too as we were running out of time. Nava mama once joked that Sri is going around Lakegala in an effort to protect her. Tony too had his piece of news up his sleeve. He kept pestering Nava mama to find me a girl from Meemure. He willingly agreed to come speak to the girl’s family (if there’s such a girl) on my behalf and get the things settled. Not a bad idea, what do you guys think?

I got a close look at a Madu Tree and it’s seeds still not ready to harvest. Those people make a delicious curry using Madu leaves (Dalu) and Pittu using those seeds. Finally we crossed the bridge and sat beside a rock offering our remaining biscuits to the farmers. We could waste no time and started walking between the paddy fields when two water buffalos started to chase each other. At first, I thought it was a wonderful opportunity to record the event when one turned towards us. Horror-stricken, we ran like headless chickens forgetting all the tiredness and I still wonder how our legs managed that much strength.

Nava mama and the farmers were laughing their heads off at the incident and we hurried onto the house.

The garden looked fabulous

The garden looked fabulous

Duck shaped flower

Duck shaped flower

Here's the little angel

Here’s the little angel

Kumara and his wife.... great hosts

Kumara and his wife…. great hosts

Saying good-bye

Saying good-bye

Lakegala and the surrounding mountains

Lakegala and the surrounding mountains

Early morning, she's already busy

Early morning, she’s already busy

Mun Eta

Mun Eta

Getting richer

Getting richer

Lakegala up close

Lakegala up close

What a wonderful experience to walk in a paddy field early morning

What a wonderful experience to walk in a paddy field early morning

Nothing can replicate what you actually see

Nothing can replicate what you actually see

They couldn't keep their eyes off Lakegala

They couldn’t keep their eyes off Lakegala

Just a funny capture

Just a funny capture

Nava mama and Tony having had some Toddy coming like crabs

Nava mama and Tony having had some Toddy coming like crabs

Deep into the jungle

Deep into the jungle

Doing the rituals in their own way

Doing the rituals in their own way

Those are rock hard

Those are rock hard

I have no idea who this is

I have no idea who this is

unny to have come across something like this, could be one of the toddy tapper's

unny to have come across something like this, could be one of the toddy tapper’s

Tony was pretty excited to see the lady bird

Tony was pretty excited to see the lady bird

Tony's scared that the elephants will come

Tony’s scared that the elephants will come

I have no idea where this leads to

I have no idea where this leads to

Artistic but blocking the path

Artistic but blocking the path

Do you see what I see? It's almost like an Elephant

Do you see what I see? It’s almost like an Elephant

Where we stopped for a biccie break

Where we stopped for a biccie break

Having regained some energy thanks to biscuits

Having regained some energy thanks to biscuits

The third girl in a white top is the one who fell. I missed the action by seconds. Seeing her trying to balance didn’t surprise me that she fell

The third girl in a white top is the one who fell. I missed the action by seconds. Seeing her trying to balance didn’t surprise me that she fell

Not edible

Not edible

Can you see the art carved on this? I suspect this could be one of the pieces from the Palace on top of Lakegala

Can you see the art carved on this? I suspect this could be one of the pieces from the Palace on top of Lakegala

Had to wait a long time to take this

Had to wait a long time to take this

Like a beard

Like a beard

The scary bit

The scary bit

Busy at work to care about us

Busy at work to care about us

Dunno who this fella is

Dunno who this fella is

The stuntman is back

The stuntman is back

The batman was there too

The batman was there too

Outskirts of the village. Do you see the cables? They've laid them from a long distance away so that these people at the edge can enjoy a bit of luxury too

Outskirts of the village. Do you see the cables? They’ve laid them from a long distance away so that these people at the edge can enjoy a bit of luxury too

This is the hay house and under that the bull or cow is tied. This will allow it to eat whenever hungry and the roof above gives him shade and cover from rain.

This is the hay house and under that the bull or cow is tied. This will allow it to eat whenever hungry and the roof above gives him shade and cover from rain.

Kept turning back to see her

Kept turning back to see her

This is not a vase

This is not a vase

Madu seeds

Madu seeds

Madu flower

Madu flower

Mission accomplished and they are dragging themselves back to base

Mission accomplished and they are dragging themselves back to base

Mountains looming at large

Mountains looming at large

The farmer taking a much needed break. The dog followed us from the edge of the village...

The farmer taking a much needed break. The dog followed us from the edge of the village…

After the Buffolo attck. The one on the left was the aggressive one.

After the Buffolo attck. The one on the left was the aggressive one.

Final glance at Lakegala... time to leave lady

Final glance at Lakegala… time to leave lady

A very rare pic and I simply can't guess how old she is

A very rare pic and I simply can’t guess how old she is

Two brothers

Two brothers

Alternative Energy – Dendro Power Plant

We arrived at the house like old CTB buses belching smoke and thundering under their own weights. Nava mama’s wife had prepared the lunch. We quickly had a wash and eat hungrily. While Nava mama was telling more stories we tried to relax.

Upali came around 3.00pm to pick us and along with Nava mama’s tuk-tuk we left for Kaikawala Dendro Power Plant. This has been started as a compliment of the hydro plant generating electricity when the water levels are not enough.

I wanted to take a pic of Nava mama and his wife together but she was very shy. In the end, after all our pestering she agreed to pose very reluctantly. Nava mama even dragged a wooden seat for but in the end he had to sit on it.

We reached the dendro plant which is passing the Meemure post office. The place looked used before but not in the recent past. They use firewood such as Giniseeriya (Albeesiya in other words – Gliricidia Sepium scientifically) for burning to generate power. It’s a fast growing plant and the environmental impact is minimal. It’s said if we grow 400,000 hectares of these, we can generate 1000 megawatts of electricity.

I’m sure Ana and Wije have their eyes on this as well and they are planning to visit Meemure very soon to check on the hydro plant. It was time for us to go and Nava mama was very sad too. It was all dry and plenty of sunshine right throughout but all of a sudden out of nowhere black clouds formed threatening to rain. We could feel the droplets of water in the air and I felt it’s Lakegala crying over our departure. She must be very sad like me but what to do we had to say good-bye.

It was a marathon journey right along and I do hope I’ve not made you tired having to read and go through hundreds of pages of my fairy tale. It took me ages to compile all these and I’m sure it must’ve taken up a huge chunk of your precious time. All I can hope is the time you spent on this is worth your while.

Please read my previous report “Jaunting off the Most Beautiful Village on Earth – Meemure”for a different viewpoint. That was when I got fascinated with Meemure and fell in love with Lakegala. This time it turned out to be a more strenuous but a stretched stay. I’ve already planned what I’m gonna do next time. Hopefully will have something similar in a few months’ times, rather few weeks’ even.

Again, big thank-you should go to Ana, Wije and everybody else who showed their interested and offered to help these people.

Here ends my fairy tale and hope you enjoyed it as much as me.

Take care…

Here's the couple... Like on their wedding photo

Here’s the couple… Like on their wedding photo

Dendro plant

Dendro plant

Getting inside

Getting inside

Very complicated for my understanding

Very complicated for my understanding

UNIDO had their hands on this as well

UNIDO had their hands on this as well

These meters don't mean a thing to me. A joint venture by Austria, India, GoSL and UNIDO

These meters don’t mean a thing to me. A joint venture by Austria, India, GoSL and UNIDO

Hopper is where you put the wood for burning

Hopper is where you put the wood for burning

I'm getting up for a closer look

I’m getting up for a closer look

Inside the HOPPER

Inside the HOPPER

The rest of the room with machinery

The rest of the room with machinery

They need to get this going again

They need to get this going again

Good bye Meemure and my Lakegala.... Coming to see you soon

Good bye Meemure and my Lakegala…. Coming to see you soon

 


The Waterfall hunt which ended as an archaeology exploration!

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Year and Month August, 2013
Number of Days 2 random days
Crew 1
Accommodation N/A
Transport Public transport & trishaw
Activities Archeology/trekking/Waterfall hunting
Weather Excellent
Route Day1: Matara -> Hakmana  -> Mulatiyana -> Walasmulla -> Kirama -> Warapitiya -> Katuwana -> Middeniya -> Angunukolapelessa -> Hungama -> Ambalanthota -> Ridiyagama -> Ambalanthota -> Hambanthota -> Thissa -> Thanamalivila -> Monaragala
Day2:  Monaragala -> Thanamalvila -> Embilipitiya -> Padalangala -> Madunagala turn off -> Mahapelessa -> Madunagala -> Suriyawewa -> Embilipitiya -> Middeniya -> Katuwana -> Embilipitiya -> Udawalawa -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took.
  • Get permission from the head priest
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Some places require 4WD or trishaws
  • Behave accordingly at hermitages
  • Explain your intensions clearly
  • My main intension is creating awareness; if you want to know more about the place the head priests of these locations will
    give you a good description when you visit :-)
  • If you are coming from Embilipitiya on A18 road, turn left at the Padalangala Junction. Travel about 7.5 km along the
    Padalangala-Sooriyawewa B563 road, until you meet an IOC Petrol Shed on the left side of the road. Just few meters passing
    the Petrol Shed, turn to the right. Continue about 3.5 km along the track. You will come to an almost T-junction where one
    fork would go leftwards. Turn to the left and continue to reach the entrance of Hot water springs.
Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

map 1

map 1 – Click to enlarge

map 2

map 2 – Click to enlarge

I had to go to Matara to meet some of my foreign friends and next day I was supposed to return back to Monaragala. I didn’t want to waste my visit by not visiting few places so I picked up few random locations which I could drop in without much of a difficulty while getting back.

First I went to Mulatiyana and headed towards Mawarala and few Kilometers away from Mulatiyana Kos gaha dola falls could be found on the right hand side of the road. It does originate from a natural spring and later flows to the river in Mulatiyana reserve. There is a nice observation platform for viewing purpose and almost all villagers know about this. From Mulatiyana I headed towards Kirama and from Kirama hired a trishaw which took me towards Warapitiya Lake and on the way we came across a junction where there was a black board which stimulated me. We took the left road from that junction (as I remember this was Warapitiya) and reached Siththam gal lena RMV.

through Mulatiyana reserve

through Mulatiyana reserve

Kosgaha dola falls

Kosgaha dola falls

On that particular day there was a Sunday school prize giving ceremony going on and I couldn’t meet the head priest to get proper permission. Anyway I started climbing uphill and reached the main rock cave where some beautiful paintings could be found but only to enjoy them through a meshed window because the entrance door was locked. From this cave I further climbed up and came towards the restored Pagoda where one can enjoy a fantastic view towards Kirama. After climbing few more steps I reached the last maluwa where the devalaya’s could be found. I strongly recommend visiting this scenic ancient temple to other visitors also and I myself might go there again someday too. After getting down I headed back towards the junction where we deviated and took the right turn to reach Rammale Kadura/ Sapugahadora Biso falls. This waterfall been the highest of Hambanthota district is a beautiful cascade and it’s very easy to reach too. They were building a bridge across the stream where one could enjoy the beauty of it easily.

Quote

Sapugahadora Biso ella/Rammale kadura

The sources of this 12m-high fall are the brooks flowing down the Rammale mountain range. It flows on to the Warapitiya Reservoir and then the Kirma River. During the dry season the flow is languid but when the rains come, it cascades magnificently. Tea plantations and other crops in Rammale and Wadula have taken a heavy toll on the environment, putting the fall’s existence in jeopardy.

The fall is situated near the Sitamgalla Temple, Hambantota District. From Katuwanna PC, near the Warapitiya Tank, take the Warapitiya – Uruboka road for 3km. It is 20m from the first culvert to the fall. Alternatively, take the road from ktuwana town via Rukmalpitiya Dangalkande towards Hulankande. The fall can be found between Hulankande and Kirama. 

Warapitiya tank

Warapitiya tank

at Siththam gal lena RMV

at Siththam gal lena RMV

another cave

another cave

note the ancient paintings

note the ancient paintings

Siththam gal lena

Siththam gal lena

steps carved in

steps carved in

restored sthupa

restored sthupa

view towards kirama

view towards kirama

warapitiya tank as seen frm the pagoda

warapitiya tank as seen from the pagoda

the devalayas

the devalayas

sculptures

sculptures

the concrete leading towards Rammale falls

the concrete leading towards Rammale falls

side view of the Biso ella

side view of the Biso ella

like a shower

like a shower

close up

close up

Rammale biso falls(Sapugahadora falls)

Rammale biso falls(Sapugahadora falls)

 the top

the top

the base pool

the base pool

From Warapitiya I got back to Kirama and headed towards Ambalantota. After getting to Ambalatota I wanted to go in search of a waterfall called Abarana falls which is the 2nd documented waterfall of the district. Fortunately one trishaw guy knew about this and he took me towards Ridiyagama. At Ridiyagama there is a road called Abarana ella and if one follows it the cascade could be reached. This miniature waterfall is formed by Walawe River and when I visited it the waterfall was covered 50% because of the high water levels. The importance of this miniature falls is because of its history rather than been a waterfall.

Quote

Abarana falls

According to folklore, the 2m fall derives its name from the fascinating but sad story of King Wijebahu. The king was married to beautiful twin sisters, both seven months’ pregnant. Before leaving for a sea battle, he announced to his queens that should he be successful, white flags would be hoisted from his ship’s mast upon his return, but should he be defeated, black flags would be flown instead. He also warned them that he would not live to see defeat.

After many days keeping vigil from the nearby Usangoda Mountain (800ft), the queens spied the king’s ship on the horizon. Although the king was victorious, he took up his general’s suggestion to fly the black flags as a practical joke, curious to see the reactions of his wives. The queens saw the black flags and assumed the worst. Overwhelmed by grief and sorrow, they committed suicide by throwing themselves into the river, after first gathering all their jewellery and laying it on the bank. Upon realising the fate of his queens and unborn children, the king was overcome by grief and plunged after them into the water. The fall is now said to be haunted by the Dark Prince – the king’s reincarnation – and it was the jewellery left on the riverbank by the distraught queens (apparitions of which have been reported) that gave the fall its name.

Also found growing near the fall is the plant locally known as dalumura, used by local villagers in devil exorcism rituals. Beware! Crocodiles (Crocodylus palustris) are often seen basking in the sun, half submerged by the pool formed by the fall. The fall’s source is the lower tributary of the Walawe River. It is situated near the town of Ambalantota and the village of Pallerota (in the Ambalantota Ridiyagama area), and the last 2km of the journey must be made on foot. To reach the bullock cart track that serves as the footpath, from the Ambalantota Nonagama junction head to the 77th mile post and cross an irrigation canal, passing a bathing spot/boat yard and a tobacco plantation. A convenient place to stay is the Hambantota rest-house, 26km away.

Since it was getting late I rushed back to Ambalantota to catch a Monaragala bus to end a tiring day where most of the time was spent on dusty roads.

turbulant walawe

turbulant walawe

Abarana falls(its 2m in height but due to the increased water level it is not clearly visible)

Abarana falls(its 2m in height but due to the increased water level it is not clearly visible)

Day two was another random day which I decided to visit few more places which I couldn’t complete on day 1. So as usual early morning I headed towards Embilipitya where I got a bus via Padalangala towards Suriyawewa. I got off at Unuwatura lin junction and hired a trishaw for the 3Km stretch towards the famous Mahapelessa hot springs. As I remember travelers who previously visited this place many years ago had mentioned that this was a jungle but now the surrounding area is just like a botanical garden. They even have caged rabbits and ducks etc.. I even noted an aquarium under construction. This is now a place of income rather than an attraction to the provincial government.

entering the hot springs

entering the hot springs

well maintained

well maintained

the wells

the wells

bubbling

bubbling

plenty of caged ones

plenty of caged ones

cute bunny's

cute bunny’s

After playing around with hot water, I decide to visit two more hermitages which were located in the Madunagala sanctuary. Just passing the hot springs we took a right turn and proceeded about 6Km’s to reach the rock hermitage of Karabulena/Karadu lena within the sanctuary and a car with careful driving could be used to access this place during the dry months. The hermitage is a huge and functional one with plenty of drip ledged caves. It is said that “rahathan theros” once meditated at this hermitage. There were two interesting caves one been the “cool cave” and the other an “umbrella cave”, on top of the rock there is a beautiful Buddha statue and a renovated pagoda. One could enjoy an endless view towards Hambanthota region including the harbor. I also noted the nearby huge Ridiyagama tank.

Karabu lena (Karadu lena)

Karabu lena (Karadu lena)

main cave at Karadulena hermitage

main cave at Karadulena hermitage

plaster

plaster

lighting

lighting

inside the cave

inside the cave

what a shape

what a shape

another cave

another cave

more caves

more caves

altar

altar

a moon stone

a moon stone

towards ridiyagama tank

towards ridiyagama tank

Thissa side

Thissa side

few more tanks

few more tanks

Madunagala hermitage as seen from Karadulena

Madunagala hermitage as seen from Karadulena

pano from the so called worlds end

pano from the so called worlds end

just like athugala

just like athugala

serene

serene

Hambanthota

Hambanthota

cattle

cattle

umbrella shaped cave

umbrella shaped cave

Seetha lena

Seetha lena

watch post

watch post

Next was Madunagala hermitage which was not so far away from Karadulena. Again we had to go through the forest to reach this place and better not to venture around in evenings because few elephants do roam around. After climbing few steps we reached the main Meda maluwa where few drip ledge caves could be found and there was a paved path through “Araliya trees” to reach the inscription and “palamu lena”. From palamu lena it was a small climb to the top where an unique designed pagoda which one could walk about inside it is found. Karadu lena hermitage was clearly seen from the rock top and also an endless view towards Hambanthota was appreciated. On the way back we did manage to visit few rock ponds which had water.

road through madunagala reserve

road through madunagala reserve

steps at madunagala hermitage

steps at madunagala hermitage

chula naga lena

chula naga lena

another cave

another cave

been used during nights and rested in mornings

been used during nights and rested in mornings

beauty on the thorns

beauty on the thorns

contrast

contrast

path through the araliya trees

path through the araliya trees

a huge kema at madunagala hermitage

a huge kema at madunagala hermitage

 an inscription

an inscription

palamu lena

palamu lena

read

read – Click to enlarge

pagoda at madunagala hermitage

pagoda at madunagala hermitage

Karadu lena as seen from madunagala

Karadu lena as seen from madunagala

life at a hermitage

life at a hermitage

naga lena

naga lena

Abaya lena

Abaya lena

palace on the tree

palace on the tree

From Madunagala we reached Suriyawewa where I got in to a Embilipitiya bus to reach Chandrika lake where I spent some time enjoying the breath taking scenery towards Sooriyakanda. After having lunch from Embilipitiya I proceeded towards Katuwana where a road side Dutch fort could be found. This Dutch fort was reconstructed few years back and is a wonderful place to drop in whenever one could. It is said that the deep wide diameter well like tunnel was used by them to reach the southern shores of Sri Lanka without been noticed. For more information please go through the images. Not even 500m towards Middeniya there was an archeology board directing towards Nakadawela Purana viharaya where one could find an ancient image house which had been restored during different periods. The outer wall paintings are the older ones and the inner wall ones are from Kandyan era. After thanking the head priest I decided to return back to Embilipitiya and then towards Monaragala to end my mini quest around Hambanthota.

at Chandrika lake

at Chandrika lake

sooriyakanda as seen from Chandrika lake

sooriyakanda as seen from Chandrika lake

wow

wow

a good place to camp

a good place to camp

Katuwana dutch fort  pano

Katuwana dutch fort pano

Katuwana dutch fort

Katuwana dutch fort

entrance

entrance

the tunnel they used

the tunnel they used

inside the fort

inside the fort

hal danda

hal danda

rested

rested

invaded by a giant

invaded by a giant

read 1 - Click to enlarge

read 1 – Click to enlarge

read 2 - Click to enlarge

read 2 – Click to enlarge

read 3 - Click to enlarge

read 3 – Click to enlarge

read 4 - Click to enlarge

read 4- Click to enlarge

read 5 - Click to enlarge

read 5- Click to enlarge

read 6 - Click to enlarge

read 6 – Click to enlarge

pagoda at image house at Nakadawala PV Katuwana

pagoda at image house at Nakadawala PV Katuwana

Nakadawela image house

Nakadawela image house

old is gold

old is gold

ancient drawings

ancient drawings

and more

and more

modified during kandy era

modified during kandy era

broken

broken

inside the image house

inside the image house

more paintings

more paintings

the well in a tunnel

the well in a tunnel

 

Archeological visit to Hanguranketha and Walapane

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Year and Month 2013 August 09th ,10th and 11th, September 02nd
Number of Days Part of 4 days trip
Crew 02/03
Accommodation Sri land rest house Rikillagaskada T.P.081365248
Transport By bus, three wheeler and walking
Activities Archeology and Photography
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo -> Kandy -> Hanguranketha -> Rikillagaskada -> Hewahata -> Wagama -> Kithulpe -> Back to Rikillagaskada -> Wilwala -> Padiyapelalla -> Walapane
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Although these are ancient temples nowadays you can’t see many ruins. Because of new constructions and treasurer hunters.
  • Better attach this visit with the waterfall hunting of this area rather than a separate journey. Then you would not be desperate by seeing only few archeological values at these places.
  • Always introduce yourself to the chief priests of temples and get their permission to visit.
  • Public transport system is not that much good in this area. Less buses after 3pm. The road from Hanguranketha to Walapane under construction and would be finished in 2015.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

The name Hanguranketha was derived from “Sangaruwan Ketha” (සගරුවන් කෙත) due to it’s thriving paddy fields in the ancient time. It was also called “Diyatilaka” (දිය තිලක).

Ancient kings especially during Kandyan period have used this as a second city/camp site when Kandy was attacked.
The king Senarath (සෙනරත් රජතුමා) has built the first palace in the Hanguranketha. According to Robert Knox’s records the city had been surrounded by a white washed protective wall. There was a giant wall encircling the palace. The entrance of the palace was constructed with beautiful carved doors and door panels.

The audience hall of Hanguranketha was built by King Rajasingha 2 (දෙවන රාජසිoහ රජතුමා). This audience hall was structurally similar to Kandy audience hall but functionally different. This hall was used by the king for resting and recreation activities.
This beautiful city was destructed by invaders from time to time. The king Seethawaka Rajasingha (සීතාවක රාජසිoහ) has also destroyed the city in searching of Konnappu Bandara (කොනප්පු බණ්ඩාර).

Today there are two ancient buildings can be seen in Hanguranketha.

  1. Ancient Dewalaya
  2. Pothgul Maliga Maha Wiharaya-built during British colonial period.

Above mentioned beautiful audience hall was located close to current Hanguranketha rest house. The paddy field known as Wadanapaya (වඩනාපාය) is situated at the site of ancient audience hall.

Pothgul Maliga Maha Wiharaya (පොත්ගුල් මාලිගා මහා විහාරය)

Ancient Hanguranketha palace was destroyed by British people in 1818 rebellion. Remained parts of the palace were used to build this temple. Therefore it is called “Maliga” මාලිගා and because of the presence of a large library called “Pothgul” පොත්ගුල්. The original carved stone door frame, moon stone and stone pillars can be seen here.

Constructions of this temple was started in 1830 and completed in 1880 by Ven. Doramitiyawe Aththadassi thero (දොරමැටියාවේ අත්තදස්සී හිමි)

Entrance of Pothgul Maliga Wiharaya

Entrance of Pothgul Maliga Wiharaya

“Pothgula”/library –We couldn’t enter as chief priest was out of the temple.

“Pothgula”/library –We couldn’t enter as chief priest was out of the temple.

Sri Pathul Viharaya , Library and Image house from right to left

Sri Pathul Viharaya , Library and Image house from right to left

Paintings still in original condition without renovation

Paintings still in original condition without renovation

Inside the image house

Inside the image house

Image house

Image house

The stupa situated inside the image house is a characteristic of this temple.

The stupa situated inside the image house is a characteristic of this temple.

Moonstone belongs to previous palace

Moonstone belongs to previous palace

Brass plates were used for the roof

Brass plates were used for the roof

Ancient stone door frame

Ancient stone door frame

Image house and stone pillars

Image house and stone pillars

Stone door frame

Stone door frame

When you cross the road you may come across ancient Vishnu Dewalaya.

Vishnu Dewalaya විශ්ණු දේවාලය

Historical information

Historical information

Vishnu Dewalaya-Diggeya දිග්ගෙය

Vishnu Dewalaya-Diggeya දිග්ගෙය

Diggeya and Dewatha Bandara Dewalaya දේවතා බණ්ඩාර දේවාලය

Diggeya and Dewatha Bandara Dewalaya දේවතා බණ්ඩාර දේවාලය

Dolawa දෝලාව

Dolawa දෝලාව

Ancient Jack tree belonged to king. Famous joker called Andare (අන්දරේ) has eaten jack fruit from this tree.

Ancient Jack tree belonged to king. Famous joker called Andare (අන්දරේ) has eaten jack fruit from this tree.

Dadimunda Dewalaya දැඩිමුණ්ඩ දේවාලය is situated behind the Vishnu Dewalaya. Excellent stone carve called “Pancha Nari Gataya” පoචනාරි ගැටය is situated here.

Dadimunda Dewalaya and “Pancha Nari Gataya” පoචනාරි ගැටය

Dadimunda Dewalaya and “Pancha Nari Gataya” පoචනාරි ගැටය

“Pancha Nari Gataya” පoචනාරි ගැටය

“Pancha Nari Gataya” පoචනාරි ගැටය

Next place of visit was Madanwela මාදoවෙල ancient temple. It is situated in between Hanguranketha and Rikillagaskada.

Madanwela ancient temple මාදoවෙල පැරණි විහාරය

Although it is an ancient temple almost new constructions can be seen. It belonged to Dambadeniya period. According to literature there is a gold plated bronze Buddha statue which was made according to Dambadeni tradition. (As chief priest was busy I couldn’t get any information about this Buddha statue).

What remain as ancient things

What remain as ancient things

Image house-new constructions

Image house-new constructions

Stupa

Stupa

Then we came to Rikillagaskada and reached Wagama ancient temple (වෑගම පැරණි විහාරය). Wagama can be reached via Hewahata (හේවාහැට). Actually we walked from Ekiriya (ඇකිරිය) to Wagama after visiting limestone cave.

Wegama ancient temple වෑගම පැරණි විහාරය

Historical information

Historical information – Click Image to Enlarge

Cave temple where the statue of Henakanda Biso Bandara  (හෙණ කද බිසෝ බණ්ඩාර) was placed. After destroying that statue only a drawing can be seen. Unfortunately nobody was at this temple when we visited.

Cave temple where the statue of Henakanda Biso Bandara (හෙණ කද බිසෝ බණ්ඩාර) was placed. After destroying that statue only a drawing can be seen. Unfortunately nobody was at this temple when we visited.

Drip ledge

Drip ledge

Bell tower

Bell tower

Moonstone

Moonstone

From Wegama we came to Kithulpe (කිතුල්පේ) to visit at Kithulpe Ranpathge temple කිතුල්පේ රන්පත්ගේ විහාරය.

Kithulpe Ranpathge temple කිතුල්පේ රන්පත්ගේ විහාරය

This must be the oldest temple of this area, belonged to Anuradhapura era. The name “Ranpathge” is related to Pandukabhaya (පණ්ඩුකාභය) story. Archeologists have found pieces of clay pots belonged to Anuradhapura era at this place. Currently you can see the image house belonged to Kandyan period and few stone pillars only.

Ancient image house. New image house was built attached to this.

Ancient image house. New image house was built attached to this.

Entrance and ceiling-Paintings of Kandyan era

Entrance and ceiling-Paintings of Kandyan era

Wooden carves

Wooden carves

Old Buddha statue

Old Buddha statue

Newly constructed Stupa on old stupa

Newly constructed Stupa on old stupa

This is not the original place where stone pillars placed.

This is not the original place where stone pillars placed.

Then we came back to Rikillagaskada and reached Wilwala ancient temple (විල්වල පුරාණ විහාරය). Wilwala (විල්වල) is situated on your way from Rikillagaskada to Padiyapelalla (පදියපැලැල්ල).
There are two ways to reach Wilwala temple. If you are going by own vehicle it is easy to go to Karandagolla (කරදගොල්ල) and drive up till Wilwala temple along the concrete road. Alternative way is to take Rutland (රට්ලන්ඩ්) bus form Rikillagaskada and get down at Wilwala. Then you can follow the foot pathway closer to the Wilwala School to reach Wilwala temple.

Wilwala ancient temple විල්වල පුරාණ විහාරය

Although it is mention Wilwala belongs to Gampola period true history goes back to Anuradhapura era. This is one of a place where “Dethispalaruha” Boo trees (දෙතිස් පලරුහ බෝ ගස්) were planted during King Dewanmpiyathissa (දෙවනිපෑතිස් රජතුමා) period.

“Makara Thorana” මකර තොරණ -Entrance to the temple

“Makara Thorana” මකර තොරණ -Entrance to the temple

Ancient “Darma Shalawa” ධර්ම ශාලාව -It needs immediate renovation. Unfortunately archeology officers still haven’t started it.

Ancient “Darma Shalawa” ධර්ම ශාලාව -It needs immediate renovation. Unfortunately archeology officers still haven’t started it.

Opposite view under Makara Thorana

Opposite view under Makara Thorana

“Dethispalaruha” Bo tree දෙතිස් පලරුහ බෝ ගස්

“Dethispalaruha” Bo tree දෙතිස් පලරුහ බෝ ගස්

Stone pillars

Stone pillars

The cave where Hena Kanda Biso Bandara Dewalaya (හෙණ කද බිසෝ බණ්ඩාර දේවාලය)  is situated. She was the queen of King Wikramabahu III (තෙවනි වික්රමබාහු රජතුමා) during Gampola period. People believe this temple was built by Hena Kanda Biso Bandara Dewi (හෙණ කද බිසෝ බණ්ඩාර දේවිය).

The cave where Hena Kanda Biso Bandara Dewalaya (හෙණ කද බිසෝ බණ්ඩාර දේවාලය) is situated. She was the queen of King Wikramabahu III (තෙවනි වික්රමබාහු රජතුමා) during Gampola period. People believe this temple was built by Hena Kanda Biso Bandara Dewi (හෙණ කද බිසෝ බණ්ඩාර දේවිය).

Two story image house. This is an extension of old cave image house. Right part of the upper floor was built recently.

Two story image house. This is an extension of old cave image house. Right part of the upper floor was built recently.

Ground floor has the old image house. This is the entrance.

Ground floor has the old image house. This is the entrance.

Seated Buddha statue found in the old image house. Note the Makara Thorana over it.

Seated Buddha statue found in the old image house. Note the Makara Thorana over it.

Paintings

Paintings

Upper floor has two Buddha statues. One is reclined Buddha statue placed recently. This seated one must be old few decades. But it is beautiful.

Upper floor has two Buddha statues. One is reclined Buddha statue placed recently. This seated one must be old few decades. But it is beautiful.

Moon stone

Moon stone

This stone inscription carries an important message. It mentions the donation of King Wijayabahu V (A.C 1344) for this temple. This is an evidence this temple is older than Gampola era.

This stone inscription carries an important message. It mentions the donation of King Wijayabahu V (A.C 1344) for this temple. This is an evidence this temple is older than Gampola era.

Following that we walked towards Karandagolla and got a bus towards Padiyapelalla. Next place was Morapaya RMV (මොරපාය රජමහා විහාරය). Ancient Morapaya temple is situated in Padiyapelalla-Mandaram Nuwara (මන්දාරම් නුවර) road.

Morapaya RMV (මොරපාය රජමහා විහාරය)

The story behind this temple is interesting. A precious golden Buddha statue can be seen at this temple. It was placed by Maliyadewa Arahath Thero මලියදේව රහතන් වහන්සේ. (Last Arahath Thero of Sri Lanka). This temple is situated close to Belihuk Oya (බෙලිහුක් ඔය). In early part of 17th century temple was destructed by a landslides and Buddha statue has been vanished. Later it was found by two merchants.
Current temple was built in early part of 19th century and still golden Buddha statue can be seen. This temple is situated on the right side of Belihuk Oya. (Old temple was at left side)

Two image houses were built in different periods.

Two image houses were built in different periods.

This image house was painted at 1957.

This image house was painted at 1957.

Seated Buddha statue seen in new image house.

Seated Buddha statue seen in new image house.

Two story old image house.

Two story old image house.

Ground floor has statues of King Dutugamunu (දුටුගැමුණු රජතුමා), King Elara (එළාර රජතුමා) and Ten giants (දසමහා යෝදයෝ) . First time I saw these statues together at a temple.

Ground floor has statues of King Dutugamunu (දුටුගැමුණු රජතුමා), King Elara (එළාර රජතුමා) and Ten giants (දසමහා යෝදයෝ) . First time I saw these statues together at a temple.

Moon stone only carries two elephants.

Moon stone only carries two elephants.

Ceiling of upper floor is decorated with beautiful paintings. Paintings of the outer wall say the story of golden Buddha statue and this temple.

Ceiling of upper floor is decorated with beautiful paintings. Paintings of the outer wall say the story of golden Buddha statue and this temple.

Entrance of upper floor of the image house.

Entrance of upper floor of the image house.

The golden Buddha statue can be seen in upper floor.  There are statues of different gods as well. I didn’t include a photo of this precious Buddha statue due to security reasons. Once it was taken by treasure hunters and later found. Paintings belong to early part of 19th century.

The golden Buddha statue can be seen in upper floor. There are statues of different gods as well. I didn’t include a photo of this precious Buddha statue due to security reasons. Once it was taken by treasure hunters and later found. Paintings belong to early part of 19th century.

Watarakgoda Pussadewa Temple (වටරක්ගොඩ පුස්සදේව විහාරය)

This temple is situated in Walapane (වලපනේ). Take the road closer to Walapane bus depot to reach Watarakgoda.
Pussadewa Thero පුස්සදේව රහතන් වහන්සේ (One of Ten giants of King Dutugamunu later became a priest following the war) has lived here. Therefore it is called Pussadewa temple.
Nowadays only few scattered ruins can be seen.

This temple has both Na tree and Bo tree together.

This temple has both Na tree and Bo tree together.

New stupa was built on ancient stupa. As this temple is not under archeology department, new constructions have been done.

New stupa was built on ancient stupa. As this temple is not under archeology department, new constructions have been done.

Scattered ruins

Scattered ruins

Scattered ruins

Scattered ruins

Scattered ruins

Scattered ruins

Stone pillars

Stone pillars

Old Bo tree

Old Bo tree

Randenigala reservoir  (රණ්දෙනිගල ජලාශය)

Randenigala reservoir (රණ්දෙනිගල ජලාශය)

In searching of serpentine rock at Rupaha රූපහ -“Garandugala” ගරඩුගල

This is the largest (may be the only) serpentine rock found in Sri Lanka. First we went to Ragala town from Walapane and then reached Manthreethanna (මන්ත්‍රීතැන්න). Manthreethanna is a beautiful village comes in Rawana legend. King Rawana’s poultry was at Manthreethanna. From Manthreethanna we came to Rupaha to reach serpentine rock called “Garandugala” (ගරඩුගල).

This serpentine rock covers few acres of the land.

On our way back we walked to Kotambe and then came to Walapane via Neeldandahinna (නීල්ද්ණ්ඩාහින්න). You can approach Garandugala by this way as well.

Ragala -> Manthreethanna -> Garandugala -> Kotambe -> Neeldandahinna -> Walapane

Serpentine is a rock composed of one or more serpentine group minerals. Minerals in this group are formed serpentinization, a hydration and metamorphic transformation of ultramafic rock from the earth.-from Wikipedia

Surrounding view on my way to serpentine rock

Surrounding view on my way to serpentine rock

Serpentine rock

Serpentine rock

It is greenish in colour. True colour exposed out.

It is greenish in colour. True colour exposed out.

Some villagers get pieces of serpentine rock to make some ornaments

Some villagers get pieces of serpentine rock to make some ornaments

Pieces in greenish colour

Pieces in greenish colour

It spreads over few acres and a water stream flows over it.

It spreads over few acres and a water stream flows over it.

Landscaping

Landscaping

Randenigala reservoir back.

Randenigala reservoir back.

Thank you for reading.

 

Kataragama 2013 summarized!

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Year and Month September, 2013
Number of Days Three
Crew more than 10(family) on first two days and me alone on the next day!
Accommodation a small family room
Transport Public transport / trishaw / Van
Activities Archeology / trekking / History
Weather Hot and Humid
Route
  • D1 Monaragala -> Buttala -> Kataragama -> Situlpawwa-> Sella Kataragama -> Kataragama
  • D2 Kataragama -> Kiri vehera -> Wedihiti kanda peak -> Tissa wewa -> Thanamalwila -> Monaragala
  • D3 Monaragala -> Thanamalwila -> Weerawila -> Debarawewa -> Tissamaharama -> Kirinda -> Yala junction -> Telulla -> Tissamaharama -> Thanamalwila -> Monaragala
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Get permission from the head priest
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Explain your intensions clearly to villagers

** SPECIAL THANKS TO ** Priyanjan & NG

Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Map 1

Map 1 – Click to enlarge

Map 2

Map 2 – Click to enlarge

Kingdom of Magama which is also guarded by lord Katharagama is one of the most visited areas by Sri Lankans and most of the time they only manage to visit few places which are commonly known. First of all Hasitha’s report was the guide I used to plan my journey and succeeded with what I attempted in! Im not going to mention anything related to the history of Magama kingdom in detail since Hasitha has done a good job in his report! As the title says this is a summery on Kataragama, please do enjoy the images!

Sithulpawwa rock temple (6°23’15.20″N, 81°27’1.84″E)

An ancient Buddhist monastery, believed to have been occupied by 12,000 Arahant monks at one time. Thought to have been built in the 2nd Century BC by King Kawantissa, who ruled the area then, Sithulpawwa derives its name from Chiththalapabbatha, which meant, the hill of the quiet mind.

friends i met at katagamuwa

friends i met at katagamuwa

old bodhiya at sithulpawwa

old bodhiya at sithulpawwa

a cave kutiya at sithulpawwa

a cave kutiya at sithulpawwa

kuda sithulpawuwa

kuda sithulpawuwa

maha sithulpawuwa

maha sithulpawuwa

towards yala

towards yala

a lake at sithupawwa entrance

a lake at sithupawwa entrance

ancient pagodas 's

ancient pagodas ‘s

the main inscription

the main inscription

the caved image house

the caved image house

prathimagaraya

prathimagaraya

kings of magama?

kings of magama?

highly dangerous

highly dangerous

more ruins

more ruins

another kutiya

another kutiya

how maha situlpawwa is seen from the lake

how maha situlpawwa is seen from the lake

to be excavated

to be excavated

ancient path

ancient path

on the way to the summit

on the way to the summit

kuda situlpawwa

kuda situlpawwa

temple premises

temple premises

buttala

buttala

gal kudaya

gal kudaya

kataragama and thissa

kataragama and thissa

more drip ledge caves

more drip ledge caves

the lake with crocs

the lake with crocs

 lake side inscription

lake side inscription

ruins

ruins

Arjuna been fed by visitors

Arjuna been fed by visitors

wild samber

wild samber

Sella Kataragama (6°26’10.19″N,  81°18’11.44″E)

Sella Kataragama is the place where god Kataragama first met his first consort Valli Amma. And the ancient mahasen viharaya also is in close proximity. There is another devalaya called Lakshmi devalaya which seems to be only a money oriented place and I would not recommend the place to any traveler.

a dip in menik ganga

a dip in menik ganga

Sella kataragama

Sella kataragama

not devatha eli

not devatha eli

the bo tree at sella

the bo tree at sella

Ancient Ruhunu Kataragama festival

Kataragama festival this year was held during August month; though the crowds were reduced a bit the festival didn’t lack anything! For the second consecutive year I was lucky enough to witness the Perahera too.

Day two was all about visiting Kiri vehera and Wedihitikanda.

awaiting

awaiting

simply awesome

simply awesome

the bands

the bands

lighting up using traditional lamps

lighting up using traditional lamps

gini paganno

gini paganno

smoked

smoked

wewal dance

wewal dance

kohomba kale

kohomba kale

fine movements

fine movements

kawadi too

kawadi too

යක් නැටුම්

යක් නැටුම්

a peacock dancer

a peacock dancer

the karaduwa been caried

the karaduwa been caried

worshiping

worshiping

Kiri vehera (6°25’26.43″N, 81°19’56.38″E) and the kataragama museum (6°25’4.74″N, 81°20’4.95″E)

Kiri Vehera is an ancient stupa built by King Mahasena. It is 95 ft. in height with a circumference of 280 ft. This structure probably dates back to the 3rd century BC. There are some ruins, inscriptions that the general public doesn’t even notice and I was focused mainly on those. Also the museum is a must visit place they even show a mini film regarding Kataragama. Few ruin sites found at Veheragala have been transferred to the museum premises.

dawn at kataragama

dawn at kataragama

kataragama devalaya

kataragama devalaya

the dances

the dances

 rituals

rituals

Kiri vehera

Kiri vehera

the චුදා මානික්‍ය

the චුදා මානික්‍ය

an inscription at kiri vehera

an inscription at kiri vehera

honeymoon couple :-)

honeymoon couple :-)

variation

variation

Kataragama museum

Kataragama museum

bodhigaraya found at weheragala

bodhigaraya found at weheragala

inscription pillars

inscription pillars

another pillar

another pillar

Detagamuwa lake

Detagamuwa lake

striving

striving

on the hunt

on the hunt

caught you

caught you

lovely landscape

lovely landscape

kataragama season

kataragama season

Wedihiti kanda/Kataragama peak (6°23’12.39″N, 81°20’9.11″E)

400m tall mighty wedihiti kanda was a dream that came true for me and climbing it at 12pm was ever so challenging but the stunning scenery and the climb resembling adams peak was worth the trouble. There is an access route for vehicles too or you could hire a vehicle to the summit from the base. One could enjoy a panoramic view of Kataragama, Kirinda, Thissamaharama and Yala without any difficulty at Wedihitikanda.

Day 2 ended with a bath in Thissa wewa and I went back to Monaragala planning to return back on the next day.

Wedihitikanda  pano

Wedihitikanda pano

endless steps

endless steps

a family we came across

a family we came across

wow we are almost there

wow we are almost there

thissa wewa

thissa wewa

note yatala and thiss sthupas

note yatala and thiss sthupas

yodha wewa

yodha wewa

detagamuwa lake and kataragama

detagamuwa lake and kataragama

 yala

yala

pano towards kataragama

pano towards kataragama

endless view

endless view

kiri wehera

kiri wehera

few more lakes

few more lakes

kirinda side

kirinda side

gods high up in the sky

gods high up in the sky

the southern ocean

the southern ocean

wedihitikanda sthupa

wedihitikanda sthupa

bo tree

bo tree

wow

wow

getting down

getting down

Day three my focus was on Thissamaharama and Kirinda areas so I got down at weerawila lake to do some bird watching before reaching Debarawewa to start my archaeology hunt.

Weerawila lake (6°17’33.90″N, 81°14’7.31″E)

Since it was the season of drought there were plenty of birds to see also the landscape was stunning.

Weerawila tank

Weerawila tank

Black winged Stilt

Black winged Stilt

fishing at weerawila tank

fishing at weerawila tank

peaks of Katharagama

peaks of Katharagama

halted

halted

plenty of these guys too

plenty of these guys too

the picturesque road

the picturesque road

grey heron

grey heron

open bill

open bill

ibis, herons and spoon bills together

ibis, herons and spoon bills together

all together

all together

dried out tank

dried out tank

painted gang

painted gang

art of mother nature

art of mother nature

Debarawewa Pashchimarama Raja maha viharaya (6°16’51.37″N, 81°15’55.69″E)

It is located few hundred meters from Debarawewa junction on Hambanthota road. There are few scattered ruins and a wonderful ancient statue of Buddha!

Debarawewa Pashchimarama RMV pagoda

Debarawewa Pashchimarama RMV pagoda

ancient statue at Debarawewa Pashchimarama RMV

ancient statue at Debarawewa Pashchimarama RMV

Menik vehera (6°17’6.88″N, 81°16’15.58″E)

Menik vehera is the first place one would come across while traveling to thissa wewa from Debarawewa. This is believed to be a creation of king Maha naga the brother of king Devanampiyatissa

Menik vehera

Menik vehera

menik vehera sthupa

menik vehera sthupa

pillars at Menik vehera

pillars at Menik vehera

 guard stone at Menik vehera

guard stone at Menik vehera

Etha Bendi gala (6°17’8.97″N, 81°16’19.80″E) & Remains of a four storied building (6°17’8.43″N, 81°16’21.31″E)

Etha bendi gala is believed to be where Kadol etha (King dutugemunu’s) was tied on to. The four storied building is said to be a palace. Both these places are found next to Menik vehera.

Etha bendi gala

Etha bendi gala

where it was tied

where it was tied

pillars which once held a four storied palace

pillars which once held a four storied palace

plenty of pillars

plenty of pillars

Yatala sthupa and the museum (6°17’8.34″N, 81°16’33.25″E)

This was built 2200 years ago by king Maha naga where his son Yatalathissa was born. Since then this had been restored many times and now the original shape of it had been completely lost. The museum was closed for renovations so I had to be satisfied with the artifacts seen in the garden. Yatala temple which is on the opposite side of the road has one of the largest Asanagaraya’s in SL.

Yatala sthupa

Yatala sthupa

Yatala museum

Yatala museum

ruins

ruins

inscription at yatala

inscription at yatala

wow

wow

another interesting carving

another interesting carving

muthra gala

muthra gala

the stone used to wash away

the stone used to wash away

prathimagaraya

prathimagaraya

an image house

an image house

a statue

a statue

king maha naga

king maha naga

wow

wow

 i love this pink

i love this pink

submerged pa dowanaya

submerged pa dowanaya

a huge asanagaraya at yatala temple

a huge asanagaraya at yatala temple

Tissa lake (6°17’5.95″N,  81°17’20.11″E) and Akurugoda pillar (6°17’8.91″N, 81°17’34.22″E)

Tissa lake is a picturesque lake built by king Mana naga. Akurugoda is believed to be the main city of Ruhuna but unfortunately many ruins are covered with reestablished civilization. The Akurugoda pillar could be reached by taking the road to the right from the makara thorana on Kataragama rd. the pillar is the largest inscription pillar I have seen in Sri Lanka.

dried out thissa lake

dried out thissa lake

dried out thissa lake

scavenging

life line

life line

wow

wow

gulping

gulping

a jacana

a jacana

beautiful thissa lake

beautiful thissa lake

Akurugoda inscription pillar

Akurugoda inscription pillar

pieces of history

pieces of history

Tissamaharama vehera (6°16’47.30″N, 81°17’29.17″E)

This gigantic masterpiece was done by king Kavanthissa and this is one of the solosmasthana in the country. Lord Buddha’s remains are said to be placed in this pagoda.

before repairing process started (2010)

before repairing process started (2010)

under renovation

under renovation

chatra stone of thissa sthupa

chatra stone of thissa sthupa

old + new

old + new

Sandagiri Seya and ruins (6°16’50.80″N, 81°17’42.36″E)

Sandagiriya is just behind Tissa dhageba and there is an actual model of the sthupa in its athulu maluwa too. To get to the image house one should take the road near the archeology office for few hundred meters.

Sandagiri seya

Sandagiri seya

proper replica of sandagiriya

proper replica of sandagiriya

yupagala

yupagala

chatra gala

chatra gala

inscription at sandagiriya

inscription at sandagiriya

beautiful guard stone

beautiful guard stone

prathimagaraya

prathimagaraya

Yoda wewa (6°15’40.03″N, 81°18’30.81″E) and Kirinda (6°12’47.60″N, 81°20’7.14″E)

Yoda wewa is believed to be done by king Maha naga and its one of those giant lakes in the area. Next I took a bus to Kirinda. It started to rain but I just loved the drizzle. Kirinda was the place where princess Viharamahadevi drifted ashore after being sacrificed to the sea by her farther.

yoda wewa

yoda wewa

beautiful giant

beautiful giant

Kirinda

Kirinda

the statue at kirinda

the statue at kirinda

a devalaya

a devalaya

the rock with inscriptions

the rock with inscriptions

sri pathula  carved on the rock

sri pathula carved on the rock

vihara maha devi

vihara maha devi

 pagoda at kirinda

pagoda at kirinda

maha devalaya

maha devalaya

rough sea at kirinda

rough sea at kirinda

another inscription

another inscription

Telulla archaeology site (6°11’46.54″N, 81°17’30.08″E) & Kirindi oya estuary

Telulla was not in my plans but after giving some calls to Priyanjan and NG it was included as my final destination. From Kirinda I got to Yala junction and hired a trishaw guy who had no idea about this place near the moya kata of Kirindi oya. So google maps aided us all the way until we reached the site. This is a must visit place but be careful of wild elephants especially in evenings since this belongs to Bundala park. We also managed to visit Kirindi oya fall out to the great oceans and that sight was enough to satisfy my tired sole and end up my expedition around ancient Magama.

 ran goyama

ran goyama

thelulla beach

thelulla beach

sand dunes

sand dunes

Kirindi oya moya kata

Kirindi oya moya kata

colour of the sand was red

colour of the sand was red

wow

wow

Thelulla ruined pagoda

Thelulla ruined pagoda

Telulla ruined pagoda (another one)

Telulla ruined pagoda (another one)

pillars at thelulla

pillars at telulla

history hidden in bundala reserve

history hidden in bundala reserve

Thanks for reading!

Mannar, revisited

$
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Year and Month October,2013 (18th -20th)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 5  (family of three kids – 13,11 & 6)
Accommodation Four Tees Rest, Thoddaveli, Mannar
Transport SUV
Activities Site-seeing
Weather Sunny most of the time, but the rainy season for Mannar just started with Madu and Mannar getting light showers in the evening and at night.
Route Colombo -> Puttlam -> Nochchiyagama -> Oyamaduwa -> Madu -> Mannar and return on Mannar -> Valankai -> Arippu -> Silavathura -> Murunkan -> Oyamaduwa -> Puttlam -> Colombo.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  1. It’s better if you can carry a stock of water at least for drinking purposes.
  2. Leave as early as possible to make maximum use of the day as well as to avoid scorching sun.
  3. Road via Oyamaduwa is a treat to drive but take extra care to spare the sun bathing reptiles on the tarmac.
  4. When visiting Adams Bridge make sure to be at the pier as early as possible (at least by 6.30 am) esp. during weekends
Author Nayani
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

The long weekend in October was eagerly awaited as a trip to Mannar was planned with family friends. Unfortunately, at the last moment they couldn’t make it, but we decided to keep to our plans though the kids were a little disheartened.

We left home (Nawala) at 5 in the morning and took our first break at the dried out Thabbowa Tank around 8am. We expected some bird activity but guess we were too late for that.

Dried out Thabbowa Tank

Dried out Thabbowa Tank

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We proceeded to Nochchiyagama and refilled our tank. The IOC shed there is the last one with “extra premium” and “extra mile” brands of petrol/diesel. Though there is an IOC shed in Mannar it does not have these.

We drove through the Deyata Kirula Road to Oyamaduwa, which is a treat to drive. But we could not enjoy our drive as there were many katussas and thalagoyas killed on the road. Many were majestically sunbathing on the tarmac without knowing their fate. We had to drive very slow, with extra care avoiding the lizards on the road. We passed that stretch around 9 am and may be they come out for sun bathing. We saw a cobra and had to stop to assist a tortoise to cross the road. There were some crushed tortoises too. This is what happens when we encroach their territory.

“Deyata Kirula Road” through the greenery

“Deyata Kirula Road” through the greenery

Inmates of Oyamaduwa Farm coming out

Inmates of Oyamaduwa Farm coming out

It is 50kms from Nochchiyagama to Thanthirimale and we reached there by 10 a.m. The road from Oyamaduwa to Thanthirimale is not carpeted but is in good shape Though it was a Poya Day it was not crowed as we expected. We were blessed with a gloomy sky, if not it would have been a nightmare to walk on the rock in the hot sun.

Thanthirimale Rock Temple

Thanthirimale Rock Temple

Surrounding ponds

Surrounding ponds

Buddha Statue Carved into the rock

Buddha Statue Carved into the rock

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We entered A14 at Gajasinhapura, only about 8kms from Thanthirimale, and from there onwards the road was a dream.

We took a detour to see “Periyamurippu Irrigation Project” just 1km away from A14. You have to turn inland near Madu Police Road (long before Madu). The water level has reduced to a minimum and the old bridge will be replaced by a new bridge very soon.

Periyamurippu Irrigation Project (Two years ago)

Periyamurippu Irrigation Project (Two years ago)

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Water level reduced to a minimum now

Water level reduced to a minimum now

Upcoming new bridge

Upcoming new bridge

Suspension Bridge

Suspension Bridge

We did not forget to enjoy ourselves on the suspension bridge built nearby. The drastic change we noticed in the environment, apart from the water level, was that normalcy had returned to this area. There was a small kovil built near the bridge and villagers were performing a pooja with a priest. They offered us hot hot “muruthan bath” which we enjoyed welcoming the friendly gesture.

We proceeded towards Madu and the road was in great shape all the way up to Madu. By 11.00 we were in Madu and it was crowded with devotees. The new Madu Railway Station must be bringing these large crowds. Madu too had undergone development during the past two years and one addition was the new cafeteria that has come up near the entrance offering a variety of food including lunch packets. Madu received showers after a long lapse of ten months while we were there. That was the first sign of the onset of the rainy season there.

Madu Shrine at a distance

Madu Shrine at a distance

Inside the Shrine

Inside the Shrine

We left Madu around 12.30 and stooped at the Giant Tank, which was also dried out, for lunch. It was welcoming the see the “Jana Awanhala” operated by the Army has been converted into the “Rice Bowl Restaurant”. They have used natural material from roof to floor including benches, chairs etc. They were very helpful and allowed us to use to place to have our home brought lunch.

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Dried out Giant Tank in the background of the gloomy sky

Dried out Giant Tank in the background of the gloomy sky

Rice Bowl Restaurant

Rice Bowl Restaurant

After a hearty lunch we proceeded towards Mannar. As the sky was getting cloudy, we briefly stopped at the causeway and did not wait long. We witnessed some bird activity, but the migrants are yet to come as the ponds are still dried out.

Causeway framed by clowdy sky

Causeway framed by clowdy sky

Mannar landscape has changed over the past two years, especially with the addition of the new railway line running across. The work is in rapid progress and hopefully will be completed by December. The old Thoddaweli Railway station right in front of 4Ts is no more, but is being replaced with a new one. (Which will soon bring loads of bird watches to Mr.Lawrance! )

Remnants of Thodaweli Railway Station – two years ago

Remnants of Thodaweli Railway Station – two years ago

The upcoming station in front of 4Ts

The upcoming station in front of 4Ts

We were warmly welcomed by ever-friendly Mr.Lawrance and 4Ts hasn’t changed much. The new wing has just begun when we visited in 2011. We had booked the large family room with one double and two single beds– the only room with A/C. We relaxed in our room until the harsh Mannar sun go down and left 4Ts around 3.30 to explore the town.

We first visited Thirukketiswaram Kovil, a famous Hindu Kovil, which is just a few kilometers away from A 14 – on the new Poonaryn Road. The lake in front of the Kovil was full of birds and we spent some time enjoying the scene.

The turn off from A14 towards Kovil

The turn off from A14 towards Kovil

Thirukketiswaram Kovil

Thirukketiswaram Kovil

Lake full of birds in front of the Kovil

Lake full of birds in front of the Kovil

We came back to town via new Mannar-Poonaryn Road, but heard that road work has been stopped just a few kms away from the Kovil. We stopped on the way to watch some local boys collecting their daily catch in the shallow lagoon.

Fishing in the lagoon by Mannar-Poonaryn Road

Fishing in the lagoon by Mannar-Poonaryn Road

The trio

The trio

We visited the famous Biobab tree close to the town. The place was crowded with two large bus loads of people. That is one change we witnessed in Mannar after two years. Today there are many local tourists visiting Mannar. May be people have had enough of Jaffna and Mannar must be the next attraction!

Gigantic Biobab Tree and my three dwarfs

Gigantic Biobab Tree and my three dwarfs

The last stop for the day was the old Duch Fort in the heart of the twon. We walked along the thich walls right round the Fort. There were many local tourists roaming around enjoying the scenay from the elevated walls of the Fort. From there we watched the sun go down the causeway painting a myriad of colours in the horizon.

Old Dutch Fort

Old Dutch Fort

A bell tower??

A bell tower??

Note the thick walls

Note the thick walls

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Causeway at a distance

Causeway at a distance

The sun going down

The sun going down

After witnessing the sun going down we had a refresing cup of tea with delicious pol rotti from the Army kade near the Fort. (even the next evening kids insisted going their for the tasty pol rotti.)

We headed back to 4Ts enjoying the twilight scenery.

At 4Ts the power supply was disturbed on and off. Mr. Lawrance said its now a common occurrence in Mannar. May be Mannar was over-crowded with tourists for the long weekend and the power grid was unable to serve the demand. But 4Ts had their generator running providing an uninterrupted service. We had their special string hoppers with cuttle fish curry, paripu and sambol for dinner and settled for an early night.

DAY 2

Our priority No. 01 was a boat trip to Adam’s Bridge. S0, we left for Thalaimannar with the first rays of the sun as we wanted to catch the first boats. But it was one of those overcast mornings after overngith rains and we all douted our luck. We were by the pier by 7.30 and were the first to arrive. The Navy has moved their boat service colse to the light house/pier as the sea is rough around where they operated two years ago.

The boats waiting in the backdrop of a gloomy sky

The boats waiting in the backdrop of a gloomy sky

The Pier

The Pier

The lighthouse

The lighthouse

View from the pier

View from the pier

We got the opportunity to walk along the pier and saw the decaying railway line of yesteryears, while hopefully waiting for the boat service to start.

A page from history

A page from history

The decaying pier

The decaying pier

Decaying….

Decaying….

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The service did not start as scheduled at 7.30 due to overcast skies and the officers were waiting for a green light, communicating with their counterparts on the “sands”. The place was getting crowded with loads of tourist but the gloomy weather cast doubts on everyone’s minds.

Finally our prayers were answered and around 9.30 we were given life jackets and were loaded into a small boat. But the boatmen found it difficult to start the engine in the shallow waters filled with sand and they had to drag it far into the sea to get the boat started. Finally we set off to Adam’s bridge despite the gloomy sky.

Started off against the overcast

Started off against the overcast

Fading landscape

Fading landscape

Approaching the “Sands”

Approaching the “Sands”

The isle is ours

The isle is ours

Patterns of nature

Patterns of nature

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No boundaries…..its all ours

No boundaries…..its all ours

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Colours of “Sands”

Colours of “Sands”

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Fertile ground – a myriad of colours….

Fertile ground – a myriad of colours….

Good bye sands…..

Good bye sands…..

Enjoying the ride back to shore

Enjoying the ride back to shore

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We were back at the pier by 11 and by then there was a large crowd waiting for the boats. We thanked the Navy personnel for bringing us safely back and left for Urumalae.

To get to Urumalee you have to come back to the main road and turn right (towards sea) between the Thalaimannar Police Station and the school. That road takes you to Urumalae.

Towards Urumaalae

Towards Urumaalae

Old lighthouse at Urumalae

Old lighthouse at Urumalae

Closer view of the iron giant

Closer view of the iron giant

From Urumallee you can see a tower in Rameshwaran far far away in the horizon, with your naked eye. We initially planned to have a sea bath at Urumalea but since there were no sea bathers we gave up.

From there we proceeded to see “Adam’s Mausoleum”. To reach the 20 ft long two graves one has to turn left from the Uramalae Road (the turn off is just as you pass the statue shown below). You have to proceed nearly 1km until you come to the small green building behind a clearing where the two graves are housed. We could not gather any information regarding the history or the significance of “Adam’s Mausoleum” as the caretaker was not there nor was there a signboard giving details. But, it seemed that the placed has been turned into a religious site by Muslim devotees. I was later told that there are a few more places in Mannar where you get 20ft long tombs like this.

Statue at the turnoff

Statue at the turnoff

Entrance to the compound

Entrance to the compound

Entrance to the building ….the door is just 4.5ft in height

Entrance to the building ….the door is just 4.5ft in height

The two 20ft long graves

The two 20ft long graves

As there was nothing much to see we were soon on our way and passed Thalimannar Chruch.

Church at Thlaimannar

Church at Thlaimannar

After exploring Thalaimannar, we were back on the tarmac towards Thoddaweli in the hot sun. Somewhere around Pesalai we met this bridal procession crossing the road, may be after the ceremony in the Kovil.

Bridal party crossing the road

Bridal party crossing the road

We walked into the Pesali Fisheries Center just out of curiosity and they had loads of giant crabs and prawns at unbelievable prices. Crabs were just Rs.80 a kilo! Hope the upcoming railway line will help them market their catch.

We had a grand lunch at 4Ts and spent the warm afternoon in the comfort of our room. The evening had us exploring Mannar further, this time along the coastal road. The road in front of 4Ts is in great shape now and it leads you to the coastal road running towards Mannar. The coastal road is gravel but is easily manageable. We saw many bird activities and passed a number of fishing villages on our way to Mannar.

The coastal road

The coastal road

“Manthai Salterns”’ at a distance

“Manthai Salterns”’ at a distance

Majestic Mannar Church

Majestic Mannar Church

An “Education Centre” – a tuition class – along the coastal road

An “Education Centre” – a tuition class – along the coastal road

It was drizzling throughout and we abandoned the idea of going towards Thalladi Railway bridge. We bought Mannar special dried fish and a variety of mangoes from the market and headed towards 4Ts after a cup of tea with pol rotti from the army kiosk near the Fort.

Without turning to 4Ts at Thoddaveli we took the right turn that took us to Erukkalampiddi – a fishing village on a tiny strip of land. It is like an arm stretched out to the sea. When you drive towards the end you can see Mannar causeway at a distance. It was a delightful sight with the sun going down.

Erukkalampiddi at a distance

Erukkalampiddi at a distance

We had rice and curry with crabs for our dinner and there were no power interruptions that night.

DAY 3

After a filling b’fast of dossai and vadai we bid good bye to Mr.Lawrance promising another visit probably by the train. We had earlier planned to use Old Mannar Road via Vilpattu for our return journey but as we experienced rain in Mannar we thought of avoiding it as it would be an unnecessary risk in rainy weather. So to make up for the lost excitement we took the coastal road via Vankalai to Arrippu and joined A14 at Murunkan.

The turn off at Thalladi was closed due to construction work and we proceeded further and took the next turn off to the right. The road was excellent for a few kms and then there were stretches of construction going on giving us a taste of the “Old Mannar Road.”

We reached Arippu after struggling along the road for nearly an hour. “Arippu Fort” though it’s called a “fort” is a single storied building in ruins found within the boundaries of a village. It is supposed to be where Robert Knox was kept in captivity for some time.

We visited Doric House known as “Ali Rani” by the locals next. I felt The Doric has crumbed more to the sea and if restoration work of some kind is not under way it will soon be washed away.

Doric House  at Arippu

Doric House at Arippu

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The Doric Tower

The Doric Tower

We spent some time enjoying the view from Doric and proceeded to Mrunkan by turning inland at Silavathura. The road was in great shape and we joined A14 at about 11.30.

Soon we heard over “breaking news” that the Kala Oya Causeway was flooded over three feet and Puttalam – Mannar Road was closed for traffic. We were more than glad that we did not take the risk of proceeding along that road.

We passed Madu and noticed large crowds at the station waiting for a train. We bought lunch packets from a nearby kiosk – again run by the army and had it in a shady place near a dried out lake on the Oyamaduwa Road.

The return journey was uneventful as we did not do any detours. We wanted to get back early as the kids had to have a good rest to be back at school the next day. We reached home by 6 with our hearts filled with lovely memories of Mannar.

Thanks for reading!

Visit to Weherahena Temple

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Year and Month November, 2013
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 4 (between 25-60 years of age)
Accommodation Friend’s House in Handapanagala, Wellawaya
Transport Private vehicle (Dimo Batti)
Activities Visiting a Buddhist Vihara
Weather Sunny
Route Galle -> Weherahena and return on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • There is parking space for 30/= other side of the temple
Author chamari
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

We started form Galle at about 10.00 in the morning. It was just about a 50 km drive and we arrived there before noon. The main things to notice are the large Buddha statue and the old tunnel system in the temple.

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This is how the Buddha statue will be seen from the parking place, before entering to the temple.

This is how the Buddha statue will be seen from the parking place, before entering to the temple.

Once you enter the temple you can see the glasses which allow the sun rays inside the tunnel temple.

Underneath, it’s the tunnel temple.  These glasses pour light inside.

Underneath, it’s the tunnel temple. These glasses pour light inside.

The Buddha statue captured from the bottom.

The Buddha statue captured from the bottom.

In front of the Buddha statue there are several ponds.

In front of the statue

In front of the statue

In front of the statue

In front of the statue

At the end of the long pond is the entrance to the tunnel temple.

Entrance of the tunnel temple

Entrance of the tunnel temple

View of the Buddha statue at the entrance of the tunnel temple

View of the Buddha statue at the entrance of the tunnel temple

Inside the tunnel temple are the pictures and carvings done by cement. This was a little long going tunnel and there is a Buddhist thero to show you several “nidan wasthu” through a little window inside the tunnel.

Carvings and pictures inside tunnel temple

Carvings and pictures inside tunnel temple

Carvings and pictures inside tunnel temple

Carvings and pictures inside tunnel temple

Carvings and pictures inside tunnel temple

Carvings and pictures inside tunnel temple

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Journey to Holy peak in off season. (From Kuruwita to Rajamale via Sri Pada peak)

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Year and Month November 2013 (10th and 11th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew  02
Accommodation Staying at Resting place in Uda Maluwa (උඩ මළුව විශ්‍රාම ශාලාව)
Transport By bus, three wheeler and climbing
Activities Mountain climbing, Sightseeing and Photography
Weather
  • Day 1 – Heavy rain and misty
  • Day 2 – Excellent
Route Colombo -> Kuruwita(කුරුවිට) -> Erathna (එරත්න) -> Adawikanda (අඩවිකන්ද) -> Sri Pada peak -> Rajamale (රාජමලේ) in Moray estate -> Maskeliya -> Hatton -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Buses from Kuruwita to Erathna and Adawikanda travel in every hour during day time. From bus stop at Adawikanda to trail head you have to walk. Or you can hire a three wheel from Kuruwita to trail head-Rs800.00
  • Off season Sri Pada hike has following challenges:
    • Heavy rain-Therefore have to be prepared with your rain coat and umbrella. Be careful about electronic items.
    • Leeches are so common in Kuruwita trail as well as Rajamale trail due to rain and surrounding forest. We had leech attacks till Mahagiridamba (මහගිරිදඹ) and it was our routine to remove them throughout the journey. Therefore be aware to get leech protection methods.
    • The foot pathway in Kuruwita road has been invaded by surrounding forest patch in some places. But it was not difficult to find it. Always follow the current wires and which goes with the foot pathway.
    • Foot pathway in Kuruwita trail is flooded with water streams in rain. We had a big difficult in crossing speedy water stream at one place.
    • As no lights during off season, be armed with your overhead lights (Better option) and a torch if you are travelling in night time. Keep extra batteries.
    • No shops along the road. Only human existence you will find at Warnagala (වර්ණගල) power house in Kuruwita trail. Therefore carry your food items and other necessary things.
    • Loneliness-Most of the time you may be the only pilgrims.
  • Don’t worry about water sources. Water streams are abundant along the road.
  • On top of the peak:
    • You can talk to caretakers of “Maluwa” (මළුව) and get open the resting place of Pilgrims for your overnight stay. There are mattresses and mats for pilgrim’s purpose. No competition for them like other days.
    • Get ready with clothes to battle with extreme coldness and wind.
  • Getting down by Rajamale trail is a good option in day time. (Difficult to recommend for night time). It also carries same problems-Leeches
  • Once you come out from forest at Rajamale you will face a real difficult to get a bus.
  • We had a difficult to get a three wheeler even, because they were working at estate at day time.
  • They will say there is a short cut to Nallathanniya (නල්ලතන්නිය) with about 3km but actually far away than this.
  • We were guided to Nallathanni-Maskeliya road again by a “short cut” but it was also a long walk through tea estates.
  • Please be kind enough to not to put plastic and polythene items.
  • If you are an amateur (“Kodu”)-කෝඩු for this journey follow some rituals as much as possible.
Related Resources Trail Guide: Kuruwita Erathna Trail to Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak)
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Sri Pada(ශ්රීd පාද) /Adam’s peak one of my favorites places in Sri Lanka. After having seven visits to Sri Pada I wanted to do it in a combination of trails during off season. I selected Kuruwita-Erathna trail for climbing up and Rajamale-Sandagalathanna (සදගල තැන්න) route for getting down.

Thilanka and I reached Kuruwita around 12pm and got a three wheeler to Adawikanda trail head.

Rain started once we reached to Adawikanda but it couldn’t delay us as we had rain coats. We two started the hiking about 1.45pm amidst rain.

Kuruwita trail. It is shown in red arrow, goes parallel to the Kuru River. Black star shows the starting point of trail head. Red star shows the trail end at Adam’s peak.

Kuruwita trail. It is shown in red arrow, goes parallel to the Kuru River. Black star shows the starting point of trail head. Red star shows the trail end at Adam’s peak.

Trail head.

Trail head.

Starting from Adawikanda.

Starting from Adawikanda.

First bridge we crossed.

First bridge we crossed.

Heavy rain brought water streams over the foot pathway.

Heavy rain brought water streams over the foot pathway.

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A tree has fallen on the pathway

A tree has fallen on the pathway

Foot pathway is covering with bushes.

Foot pathway is covering with bushes.

Crossing of this water stream was a real challenge for us.  Arrow shows the way we have to go.

Crossing of this water stream was a real challenge for us. Arrow shows the way we have to go.

After checking the depth my friend carefully got into the water stream.

After checking the depth my friend carefully got into the water stream.

First resting place of the trail-“Jambolagahayata Ambalama” (ජම්බෝලගහයට අම්බලම) -1.6km from trail head.

The list shows the donations to build this place.

The list shows the donations to build this place.

Details.

Details.

Heenpiduruthalawa (හීන් පිදුරුතලාව කන්ද) Mountain is pouring with waterfalls following rain.

Heenpiduruthalawa (හීන් පිදුරුතලාව කන්ද) Mountain is pouring with waterfalls following rain.

Less clear foot pathway.

Less clear foot pathway.

When we reach Jambolagahayata Ambalama rain was not there but mist was on its way.

Seasonal waterfalls are everywhere.

Seasonal waterfalls are everywhere.

“Danger zone”-Advices not to go out of the pathway.

“Danger zone”-Advices not to go out of the pathway.

Iron bars were helpful as pathway was slippery following rain.

Iron bars were helpful as pathway was slippery following rain.

First set of cement footsteps.

First set of cement footsteps.

Reaching the second resting place-“Dayimangala Ambalama” (ඩයිමන්ගල අම්බලම)-2.6km

“Dayimangala Ambalama”

“Dayimangala Ambalama”

Heenpiduruthalawa is covering with mist.

Heenpiduruthalawa is covering with mist.

Our next resting place was Warnagala-colorful rock. Warnagala waterfall can be approached by two ways: One is following the foot pathway near to Warnagala Ambalama (වර්ණගල අම්බලම). You can observe a gate opposite to quarters of Warnagala power plant. That road also directs to Warnagala waterfall. This road goes over the large pipes carrying water to the turbines.

Quarters of Warnagala Hydro Power plantation.

Quarters of Warnagala Hydro Power plantation.

Warnagala waterfall. It was quite difficult to reach.  Origin is Kuru river (කුරු ගග).

Warnagala waterfall. It was quite difficult to reach. Origin is Kuru river (කුරු ගග).

Another waterfall is situated closer to Warnagala waterfall.

Another waterfall is situated closer to Warnagala waterfall.

Due to diversion of water for Hydropower, no water down to the water falls.

Due to diversion of water for Hydropower, no water down to the water falls.

Unusual rock formation.

Unusual rock formation.

Warnagala Ambalama and temple-2.8km

Warnagala Ambalama. One of important resting place as it is spacious.

Warnagala Ambalama. One of important resting place as it is spacious.

Reaching Warnagala temple.

Reaching Warnagala temple.

Buddha statue of Warnagala.

Buddha statue of Warnagala.

God Sumana Saman ( සුමන සමන් දෙවියෝ).

God Sumana Saman ( සුමන සමන් දෙවියෝ).

When we left from Warnagala mist was all around us and it was around 7pm when we reach our next stop-Seethagangula (සීත ගගුල). There were two resting places before and after Seethagangula. Surprisingly it was not difficult to cross Seethagangula even after heavy rain.

Another slot of cement footsteps after Warnagala.  This is still bit rare in Kuruwita trail.

Another slot of cement footsteps after Warnagala. This is still bit rare in Kuruwita trail.

Entering to peak wildness sanctuary.

Entering to peak wildness sanctuary.

Totally misty.

Totally misty.

On top of Warnagala.

On top of Warnagala.

“Kunudiya Parwathya” කුණු දිය පර්වතය

“Kunudiya Parwathya” කුණු දිය පර්වතය

Seethagangula-5km from trail head

Reaching Seethagangula Megoda Ambalama (සීත ගගුල මෙගොඩ අම්බලම)

Reaching Seethagangula Megoda Ambalama (සීත ගගුල මෙගොඩ අම්බලම)

Seethagangula Ambalama and boutique.

Seethagangula Ambalama and boutique.

Crossing Seethagangula.

Crossing Seethagangula.

Seethagangula area.

Seethagangula area.

Seethagangula Egoda Ambalama (සීත ගගුල එගොඩ අම්බලම).

Seethagangula Egoda Ambalama (සීත ගගුල එගොඩ අම්බලම).

Next milestone of the journey was Madahinna temple (මැද හින්න) and Ambalama. I was checking the place where foot pathway from Maliboda (මාලිබොඩ) joining the Kuruwita trail and found it about 100m away from Medahinna.

Madahinna Ambalama (මැදහින්න අම්බලම) and Temple-1275m height-7.7km

This came across just before Madahinna Ambalama. We stayed there for a while.

This came across just before Madahinna Ambalama. We stayed there for a while.

Madahinna temple.

Madahinna temple.

Maliboda trail joining with Kuruwita pathway.

Maliboda trail joining with Kuruwita pathway.

Then we were expecting Indikatupana (ඉදිකටුපාණ) and resting place.

Few benches were found before Indikatupana.

Few benches were found before Indikatupana.

Mist was captured like this.

Mist was captured like this.

Indikatupana/Geththampana (ගෙත්තම්පාන) -1500m height-9km

At Indikatupana. Note the collapsed building in front of Ambalama.

At Indikatupana. Note the collapsed building in front of Ambalama.

Remaining from season.

Remaining from season.

Passing Indikatupana.

Passing Indikatupana.

Now rain clouds have gone away and moon was shining. It was so beautiful to see surrounding environment is bathing in moon light. We reached Galwangediya around 12pm and had our dinner.

Half moon.

Half moon.

View under moon light.

View under moon light.

Galwangediya (ගල්වoගෙඩිය) -10km from trail head.

Why it is called Galwangediya.

Why it is called Galwangediya.

Galwangediya boutique was in good condition.

Galwangediya boutique was in good condition.

Black arrow shows the Rathanapura-Palabathgala road. Red arrow shows the Kuruwita-Erathna road. They meet at Galwangediya junction.

Black arrow shows the Rathanapura-Palabathgala road. Red arrow shows the Kuruwita-Erathna road. They meet at Galwangediya junction.

At junction.

At junction.

After passing Galwangediya we reached Haramitipana (හැරමිටිපාන) temple. Now the foot pathway was luxurious with cement footsteps.

Haramitipana-1700m elevation-10.1km

Entering to Haramitipana temple.

Entering to Haramitipana temple.

Haramitipana Saman Dewalaya.

Haramitipana Saman Dewalaya.

Standing Buddha statue at Haramitipana.

Standing Buddha statue at Haramitipana.

Passing Haramitipana.

Passing Haramitipana.

Meelamalakandura (මෑල්ලමලකදුර )-Don't know the reason for the name.

Meelamalakandura (මෑල්ලමලකදුර )-Don’t know the reason for the name.

Adiyamalathenna (ආඩියාමල තැන්න) -11.3km
We met first human existence of this trail at Adiyamalathenna where two army soldiers talked with us. Now the light of Sri Pada peak was seen and we climbed towards Ehela Kanuwa (ඇහැල කණුව).

Adiyamalathenna Ambalama.

Adiyamalathenna Ambalama.

Connecting to Hatton road.

Connecting to Hatton road.

Two lines for devotees.

Two lines for devotees.

“Ehela Kanuwa”
The rock pillar on which devotees apply lime. It is believed sin of “Kodu” people (People who worship Sri Pada in first time) would go away by this activity. This is a rock pillar in Rathanapura road and wooden pillar in Hatton road.

“Ehela Kanuwa.”

“Ehela Kanuwa.”

“Dolosmahe Pahana” (දොලොස්මහේ පහන) at Ehela Kanuwa.

“Dolosmahe Pahana” (දොලොස්මහේ පහන) at Ehela Kanuwa.

“Mahagiridamba” (මහගිරිදඹ) -The Great Rock climb.

Starting “Mahagiridamba” climbing.

Starting “Mahagiridamba” climbing.

Climbing “Mahagiridamba”.

Climbing “Mahagiridamba”.

Reaching the destination.

Reaching the destination.

We reached the peak of Sri Pada around 2am and spent our night at resting place. Early morning about 50 foreigners came from Hatton road and gathered for sun rise. We were the only Sri Lankans were there except guides of tourists.

Sun rise-ඉර සේවය

Waiting for sun rise.

Waiting for sun rise.

Just before sun rise.

Just before sun rise.

It is started.

It is started.

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Now it is completely out.

Now it is completely out.

Surrounding beauty

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Bells.

Bells.

Hatton rail and Peace pagoda.

Hatton rail and Peace pagoda.

Painted on sky.

Painted on sky.

“Kunudiya Parwathaya”. Height-1580m.

“Kunudiya Parwathaya”. Height-1580m.

From left to right-Thotupola mountain (තොටුපොල කන්ද), Agrabopath (අග්රා බෝපත්) and Kirigalpoththa (කිරිගල්පොත්ත). Giants of Hortain plains.

From left to right-Thotupola mountain (තොටුපොල කන්ද), Agrabopath (අග්රා බෝපත්) and Kirigalpoththa (කිරිගල්පොත්ත). Giants of Hortain plains.

Sri Pada Maluwa.

Sri Pada Maluwa.

Seethagagula waterfall- (සීත ගගුල ඇල්ල)

Seethagagula waterfall- (සීත ගගුල ඇල්ල)

“Bana Samonala” (බෑණ සමොනල) / false peak.  It is called false peak due to similarity to Adam’s peak. Height is 2010m. It has two peaks.

“Bana Samonala” (බෑණ සමොනල) / false peak. It is called false peak due to similarity to Adam’s peak. Height is 2010m. It has two peaks.

Bunch of flowers

Bunch of flowers

Mausakelle reservoir (මාඋස්සාකැලේ ජලාශය).

Mausakelle reservoir (මාඋස්සාකැලේ ජලාශය).

After enjoying the sun rise and surrounding view we started to get down along Hatton road and then entered Rajamale-Sandagalathanna trail.

Getting down

This plate you will come across on the first step of Mahagiridamba of Hatton road.  In 1960-1970 Walker and Sons company has made these steps of Mahagiridamba.

This plate you will come across on the first step of Mahagiridamba of Hatton road. In 1960-1970 Walker and Sons company has made these steps of Mahagiridamba.

“Bagawa Lena” (බගවා ලෙන)-This will come across in left hand side of Hatton road when you coming down.

“Bagawa Lena” (බගවා ලෙන)-This will come across in left hand side of Hatton road when you coming down.

Stone inscription found in “Bagawa Lena”.

Stone inscription found in “Bagawa Lena”.

Details of stone inscription.

Details of stone inscription.

Found in Bagawa Lena.

Found in Bagawa Lena.

“Ehela Kanuwa”

“Ehela Kanuwa”

We were not alone in getting down.

We were not alone in getting down.

Mist

Mist

Getting down.

Getting down.

Sun rays.

Sun rays.

Mahagiridambaya.

Mahagiridambaya.

At the end of “Mahagiridamba” of Hatton road we came to the starting point of Rajamale route.

Rajamale-Sandagalathanna route
It will end at Rajamale division of Moray estate and a plain called Sandagalathanna will come across on your way in this route. It is considered as the least distance route to Sri Pada if you can come to Rajamale by a vehicle. It is not difficult to find the starting point of this trail just after the Mahagiridamba of Hatton road. Initial 100-200m would be narrow and then foot pathway is much clear. We could finish the trail by about 3hours.

Yellow arrow shows the starting point of Rajamale route. Note iron bars of Mahagiridamba are over and only cement foot steps are there.

Yellow arrow shows the starting point of Rajamale route. Note iron bars of Mahagiridamba are over and only cement foot steps are there.

Initial part of foot pathway is bit narrow.

Initial part of foot pathway is bit narrow.

Beautiful morning.

Beautiful morning.

Mountainous forest.

Mountainous forest.

.

.

Inside the forest.

Inside the forest.

Entering to Sandagalathanna.

Entering to Sandagalathanna.

Religious beliefs.

Religious beliefs.

Different view of Adam's peak from Sandagalathanna.

Different view of Adam’s peak from Sandagalathanna.

Leaving from Sandagalathanna.

Leaving from Sandagalathanna.

Water streams are common in this pathway.

Water streams are common in this pathway.

The way through woods.

The way through woods.

It was a real fun to walk in the forest in early morning.

It was a real fun to walk in the forest in early morning.

Last water stream we came across.

Last water stream we came across.

Entering to Rajamale division of Moray estate.

Entering to Rajamale division of Moray estate.

When we came to Rajamale it was difficult to find a transportation mode to reach a bus route. Although three wheels are there drivers were working at estate. Then we were directed to a shortcut to Nallathanniya about 3km distance. Later some estate workers showed us another pathway to descend to Maskeliya-Nallathanninya road. Somehow we reached that road after spending another 3hours in Moray estate.

Rajamale trail- Red star shows Adam’s peak and black star shows probably trail end. Red arrow shows the way we descended to Nallathanni-Maskeliya road.

Rajamale trail- Red star shows Adam’s peak and black star shows probably trail end. Red arrow shows the way we descended to Nallathanni-Maskeliya road.

Few snaps taken in our way to Maskeliya road.

Moray estate.

Moray estate.

Rajamale division.

Rajamale division.

Single tree.

Single tree.

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Another waterfall.

Another waterfall.

Waterfall found at St. Andrew division of Moray estate.

Waterfall found at St. Andrew division of Moray estate.

Thank you for reading.

Madakada Buddhist Hermitage and Nachchimale Dola. ( මඩකඩ ආරණ‍ය සේනාසනය හා නාච්චිමලේ දොල)

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Year and Month November, 2013 (08th)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 2
Accommodation N/A
Transport By bus and Three wheeler
Activities Photography and relaxation
Weather Excellent
Route Battaramulla -> Kottawa -> Horana -> Ingiriya -> Mahaingiriya -> Madakada and Nachchimale by Keengahawila road.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • This is a Buddhist hermitage for meditation. Therefore be calm.2. Meet chief priest of the Hermitage first. He will tell what you can watch within the premises. Don’t try to enter meditation rooms-“Bawana Kuti” (භාවනා කුටි) without permission.3. If you want to walk inside the Madakada forest better have a known person.
  • Nachchimale Dola is safe for bathing in most of times. But there are number of deaths occurred due to drowning here.Therefore your safety in your hands.
  • Avoid in public holidays as Nachchimale Dola would be full of people.
  • Don’t put plastic, polythene items and garbage here.
Author Niroshan
Related articles
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Madakada proposed reserve. (මඩකඩ යෝජිත රක්ශිතය)

Madakada proposed reserve spreads to 400hectaer. There are two peaks in this forest named as Nambapana-නම්බපාන (296m) and Sapugaha Kanda-සපුගහ කන්ද (203m). Nambapana water stream/ Nambapana Ela-නම්බපාන ඇල flows from Labugama-ලබුගම area and flows through this forest reserve and join with Kalu River (කලු ගග). It is commonly named as Nachchimale Dola (නාච්චිමලේ දොල).

This reserve is a secondary forest started in 1975-1996 following destruction of initial forest. Abounded rubber estates and Chena can be seen inside the forest. Pines, Akeshia, Albesia, Molukana and Mahogany were planted as trees.

Madakada forest has high bio diversity. 90 bird species has been recorded here and 11 of them are endemic. There are 56 butterfly species and 17 out of them are endemic. They have founded 9 amphibian species and 3 of them are endemic.

Nachchimale Dola is a popular bathing place. There are 39 fish species in this water stream and 16 of them are endemic. Nachchimale Dola is under threatened of environmental pollution due to it’s popularity.

Madakada Buddhist Hermitage is situated closer to Nambapana Ela.

Madakada Buddhist Hermitage. මඩකඩ ආරණ‍ය සේනාසනය

The history of this Monastery goes back to 1940 and there were over 100 meditative monks living here at that time. The new Monastery was built by Rev. Ranwala Saddhathissa Thero (රන්වල සද්ධාතිස්ස හිමි) in 1948. At the ancient time this area was a forest area with caves and then after arrival of the Saddhathissa Thero for his meditations, this area became a forest monastery. “Madakada Aranya” is one of the premier “Vipassana” meditation centers in the country. It also has branches in places such as Navinna, Salgala and few other places in the country. Contribution of this center for religious well-being of Sri Lankan’s as well as for foreigners is invaluable.
Presently there are about 16 resident Buddhist sermons and 7 resident laymen practicing “Vipassana” meditation at any given time. As it is our Buddhist way of life they have been well looked after by devotees in their day to day needs.
(From Wikipedia)

We reached Mahaingiriya (මහ ඉoගිරිය) town around 8am and had our breakfast. Then we Went through Keenagahaiwla (කීනගහවිල) road by a three wheeler about 2-3km. The pathway to Buddhist hermitage was surrounded by trees and Nambapana Ela flowed on one side of the pathway. After about 1km walk we reached the entrance of Buddhist Hermitage. The time was around 10.30am. We had an opportunity to meet chief priest as that was the time for alms.

We were able to observe the walking of Buddhist monks for alms-“Pindapathwaya” “පින්ඩපාතය”. There are a lot of constructions inside the hermitage to be watched.

Entering to the Buddhist Hermitage-Keep in mind.

Entering to the Buddhist Hermitage-Keep in mind.

Foot pathway. No way to drive along this.

Foot pathway. No way to drive along this.

Steps.

Steps.

Entering to the Hermitage.

Entering to the Hermitage.

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The Bo tree.

The Bo tree.

What Lord Buddha preached.

What Lord Buddha preached.

The order.

The order.

Would be helpful in meditation.

Would be helpful in meditation.

Main shrine house.

Main shrine house.

Stupa

Stupa

View of “Pindapatha Shalawa” “පිණ්ඩපාත ශාලාව” from Nambapana Ela.

View of “Pindapatha Shalawa” “පිණ්ඩපාත ශාලාව” from Nambapana Ela.

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Sapugaha Kanda. Note the peak is covered with Pines trees….

Sapugaha Kanda. Note the peak is covered with Pines trees….

Following visiting at Madakada Buddhist Hermitage we decided to have a dip at Nachchimale Dola. As it was a weekday nobody there. If you need to capture birds in this forest reserve, Nachchimale Dola is the ideal place.

Old notice.

Old notice.

Nambapana Ela/Nachchimale Dola.

Nambapana Ela/Nachchimale Dola.

Little cormorant drying it's wings.

Little cormorant drying it’s wings.

Nambapana Ela is making a small waterfall on it’s way.

Nambapana Ela is making a small waterfall on it’s way.

Better avoid these places.

Better avoid these places.

A waterfall made by Nachchimale Dola.

A waterfall made by Nachchimale Dola.

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Another common member found here.

Another common member found here.

The place where we had the bath.

The place where we had the bath.

At water level.

At water level.

Most important message.

Most important message.

Thanks for reading.


Searching of Kukuluwa Temple (කුකුළුවා විහාරය)

$
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Year and Month December, 2013 (22nd)
Number of Days One Day Trip
Crew 02
Accommodation Not applicable
Transport By bus and walking
Activities Trekking, Archeology and Photography
Weather Excellent
Route Kalawana -> Samanpura -> Kukuluwa Temple -> Pimbura -> Back to Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  1. Start the journey in early morning.
  2. Always better clarify your way from villagers. After some extent there are no houses. Therefore always follow the foot pathways in right hand side.
  3. Better have a bottle of water and some snacks.
  4. Few leeches were noticed.
  5. Meet the chief priest/ only priest of the temple. He would show what you have to watch.
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Kukuluwa Temple is situated on top of Nirieli Kanda නිරිඇලි කන්ද (1500feet) in Rathnapura District at Ayagama (අයගම) area. There are three pathways to reach this temple; two of them are foot pathways. Even along other road also needs a good four wheel vehicle to reach the temple. Climbing to this temple is a nice experience and it reminds me the Kuruwita trail of Sri Pada. There for I decided to share my experience with others.

Approaching to Kukuluwa Temple. Black star shows the temple

Approaching to Kukuluwa Temple. Black star shows the temple
1. Red arrow shows the footpath from Samanpura.
2. Black arrow shows the footpath from Pimbura.
3. Blue arrow shows the road from Niriella.

Historical back ground of Kukuluwa Temple.
This is the oldest cave temple of Kukulu region (කුකුළු කෝරලේ). It is believed King Walagamba (වළගම්බා රජතුමා) has stayed here following the war and then he built this temple. But there are no historical evidences for this. Second thought is this temple belongs to Kotte period and archeologists have accepted it.
As it is situated in “Kukulu Korale” කුකුළු කෝරලේ, it is called Kukuluwa temple. But it’s previous name was “Kanaththe Gal Len Wiharaya” කනත්තේ ගල්ලෙන් විහාරය.

How to approach Kukuluwa Temple.
Three ways:

  1. You can reach Samanpura (සමන් පුර) from Kalawana via Rajjuwaththa (රජ්ජුවත්ත) by bus (Half an hour journey) then have to climb up about 3-4km. (1.5-2 hour climbing). The foot pathway is clear, scenic and has to cross few water streams.
  2. You can reach Pimbura (පිඹුර) from Kalawana or Idangoda (ඉඩන්ගොඩ) by bus (Pimbura is situated in between Kalawana and Idangoda) and then follow the foot pathway towards the temple. This foot pathway joins with the path from Samanpura. It has less distance but less scenic.
  3. You can reach the temple from Niriella (නිරිඇල්ල). There is a gravel road from Niriella to the temple only can be driven by good four wheel vehicle.

Journey to Kukuluwa Temple from Samanpura.

Starting of the journey from Samanpura.

Starting of the journey from Samanpura.

It shows the direction. Then the road became a narrow foot pathway.

It shows the direction. Then the road became a narrow foot pathway.

Water stream to be crossed.

Water stream to be crossed.

Climbing up.

Climbing up.

Wattle and dub houses are still common in this area.

Wattle and dub houses are still common in this area.

Direction.

Direction.

Surrounding beauty.

Surrounding beauty.

Beautiful foot pathway.

Beautiful foot pathway.

Climbing up.

Climbing up.

Getting a bend.

Getting a bend.

Steps……

Steps……

Kind request.

Kind request.

Nice place to have a bath. But don't bath here. It is for drinking purpose.

Nice place to have a bath. But don’t bath here. It is for drinking purpose.

Single beauty.

Single beauty.

First glimpse of the temple.

First glimpse of the temple.

After 2hour journey we reached the temple. As it was an ancient temple, it was attacked by treasurer hunters in various occasions. Nowadays it is hard to see ancient things at this temple premises. Only one Buddhist priest is there. He was very kind to show us the temple.

The cave temple. This is around 450feet long cave and it has two compartments. One is an image house and other one is for “Dewalaya” දේවාලය.

The cave temple. This is around 450feet long cave and it has two compartments. One is an image house and other one is for “Dewalaya” දේවාලය.

Entering to the image house.

Entering to the image house.

Inside of the shrine hose. Note the hole in it’s wall. Damaged by treasurer hunters. There is a reclined Buddha statue. This was explored by villagers in 18th century and it was entirely covered with wattle and dub. During Seethawaka Rajasingha (සීතාවක රාජසිoහ) period it was done by villagers for protection from the king and treasurer hunters.

Inside of the shrine hose. Note the hole in it’s wall. Damaged by treasurer hunters. There is a reclined Buddha statue. This was explored by villagers in 18th century and it was entirely covered with wattle and dub. During Seethawaka Rajasingha (සීතාවක රාජසිoහ) period it was done by villagers for protection from the king and treasurer hunters.

Paintings of the ceiling.

Paintings of the ceiling.

It is getting less light.

It is getting less light.

Small cave is allocated for “Dewalaya” දේවාලය.

Small cave is allocated for “Dewalaya” දේවාලය.

“Gambara Dewiyo” ගම්භාර දෙවියෝ

“Gambara Dewiyo” ගම්භාර දෙවියෝ

Natural water spring can be seen on side of the cave making a natural pond.

Natural water spring can be seen on side of the cave making a natural pond.

Scattered ruins.

Scattered ruins.

Steps.

Steps.

Bo tree and fairly new constructions

Bo tree and fairly new constructions

Moon stone.

Moon stone.

Surrounding view.

Surrounding view.

Stupa. Can have a nice surrounding view from here.

Stupa. Can have a nice surrounding view from here.

Bell tower. This has one of largest bell of Sri Lanka and robbed by treasurer hunters. Now it is under police and loudspeakers have replaced it.

Bell tower. This has one of largest bell of Sri Lanka and robbed by treasurer hunters. Now it is under police and loudspeakers have replaced it.

“Darma Shalawa” (ධර්ම ශාලාව) -quite old.

“Darma Shalawa” (ධර්ම ශාලාව) -quite old.

It had a statue of a cock on top of the house. It was also robbed by treasurer hunters.

It had a statue of a cock on top of the house. It was also robbed by treasurer hunters.

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After visiting about one hour at this temple we followed the same route to come down and got the pathway to Pimbura to descend. On our way back, we had a dip at Pimbura.

Thanks for reading.

Sri Pada via Sandagalathenna( The Holly Moon Rock Plain )

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Year and Month January 2014 (14th & 15th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew Five (Sanketha, Harinda, Prasad, Prince& Dinesh)
Accommodation Several Resting Places ( Ambalam) On Ratnapura trail
Transport Public Transport & Three wheelers
Activities Pilgrimage and walking in the calm wilderness
Weather Misty and drizzling time to time
Route Pettah -> Hatton -> Nallathanni -> Trail head ( Moray /Rajamale Estate ) -> Mahagiridamba ->Sri Pada summit -> Galwangediya Ambalama(Ratnapura Trail) -> Siripagama -> Mapalana Ella(3-4 km away from Sri Pagama) -> Ratnapura – > Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Hatton Nallathanni Bus is parked in front of the Hatton railway station●You can hire a van to trail head (Rajamale estate) from Nallathanni probably around Rs. 3000-3500. Since there were no vans at the time of our arrival we hired two three wheelers @Rs1300/- each. Otherwise you can hire a van from hatton but the charges will be more than Rs 6000/-( this option is better if you have a large group)
  • Our initial idea was to camp near Sandagalathenna but gave up that idea due to prevailing unsuitable conditions for genuine hikers (We heard from Wildlife officers that they have been arresting Geko / butterfly smugglers and campers past few weeks) So better to do this trail in the day light without loitering much in the forest)
  • These days no one was allowed to stay in the summit ( udamaluwa) after doing rituals. You have to stay in the Hall ( wishrma shala). But it’s crowded these days.
  • There are sufficient resting places/shops in ratnapura trail where you can buy freshly prepared food. And in Galwangediya and Haramitipana( Ratnapura trail) you can hire resting rooms to have a nap just for around Rs.500-700
  • Close to the trail head of Ratnapura trail there are few safe bathing places and few shops where you can have a proper meal.
  • Sripagama to Mapalana falls ; you can hire three wheelers around Rs.250-300.We all five went in a Diesel Three wheeler  and it cost us Rs. 600/- for the whole journey/return including 20 minutes waiting
  • Ratnapura –Colombo bus service is not up to satisfactory level where a bus leaves the bus stand in every 1.5-2hrs
  • Use a Leech repellent
  • DO NOT LITTER THE SACRAD PLACE AND THE SUROUNDING AREA .IT’S AN UNFORGIVABLE SIN
  • Please don’t do this hike for fun. Do it as a pilgrimage. Respect the tradition and pilgrims.

Special Thanks for SANKETHA AND PRASAD FOR THE CONTRIBUTION WITH IMAGES .Although I insisted them to write the report they put that duty on my head.

AND I THANK All OUR NADE for WORKING AS A FRIENDLY CARING GROUP.

Related Resources
Author HARINDA
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Sri Pada Season is begun. Buddhist pilgrims and pilgrims of other religions come in millions to worship the sacred foot print. People who want to climb the summit within a shorter period without much difficulty choose the Hatton Nallathani Route. Because of that Hatton route get crowded most of the time. People who wanted to climb in less crowded trail which is much closer to nature; choose comparably difficult Eratna or Ratnapura trails .Or sometimes choose Deraniyagala/Maliboda or Hapugasthenna/Dehenakanda trails to get fully natural experience but with extreme difficulties and hazardous conditions.

What if someone wants to travel in a route which is much closer to nature but not difficult as Ratnapura, Erathna or Other jungle trails. As a person who has done all six documented routes I cast my vote for Moray/Rajamale route which is even called the Sandagalathenna route. It is the shortest and easiest to my concern and no doubt you can reach summit with least time ( 3-4 hours.) You’ll be walking under the shade of thick forest viewing beautiful sceneries, feeling the cool breeze to your nose and tongue and drowning in the thick mist cover.

Importantly you will pass a Holly place called Sandagalathenna which is a large flat rocky area where you see the magnificent view of Sri Pada .It is said ancient people had done some rituals from this place specially at night time bathing under the milky rays of the moon. (SANDA + GALA + THENNA) .One can imagine the magical view when the whole area is lighten with moon rays.

Holly place – Sandagathenna ……….Holly mountain was embraced with mist cover          ..         PHOTO: PRASAD

Holly place – Sandagathenna ……….Holly mountain was embraced with mist cover .. PHOTO: PRASAD

Holly plain covered with evening sun rays and Holly peak covered with mist                                  Photo : Prasad

Holly plain covered with evening sun rays and Holly peak covered with mist Photo : Prasad

So here is the story of our Pilgrimage to Sri PADA Via SANDAGALATHENNA

We left our homes at 5.30 a.m and Sanketha’s father was kind enough to drop Me,Prince and Sanketha to Pettah bus stand. Around 6.15a.m Prasad and his brother in low Dinesh came and we all got into a Hatton bus which left the place at 7.00a.m. It stopped for breakfast closer to Kithulgala where we had some rotty and buns. We reached hatton around 11.30 and no sooner we got in to Nallathanni Bus which was parked near the railway station. We reached Nallathanni around 1.00 p.m

Hatton/Nallathanni Bus parked besides the station                                                                      PHOTO: SANKETHA

Hatton/Nallathanni Bus parked besides the station PHOTO: SANKETHA

On the way ( reservoir is dried out a bit )                                                                                     PHOTO : SANKETHA

On the way ( reservoir is dried out a bit ) PHOTO : SANKETHA

We came back nearly 1km along the Hatton route to see Mohini Ella which was dried a bit                       PHOTO : HARINDA

We came back nearly 1km along the Hatton route to see Mohini Ella which was dried a bit PHOTO : HARINDA

Then Two three wheelers were moving along the damaged steep road through the tea estates.

Tea Fields                                                                                                                                      PHOTO : SANKETHA

Tea Fields PHOTO : SANKETHA

Our driver took us to this nice observation place to view GATMORE falls                                            Photo : Sanketha

Our driver took us to this nice observation place to view GATMORE falls Photo : Sanketha

Kumaraya was so happy like he was in heaven                                                                               PHOTO : HARINDA

Kumaraya was so happy like he was in heaven PHOTO : HARINDA

Gatmore Falls                                                                                                                                         Photo : Sanketha

Gatmore Falls Photo : Sanketha

Closer view                                                                                                                                                 Photo : Sanketha

Closer view Photo : Sanketha

Our Nade from left Sanketha ,Me ,Prince, Prasad, Dinesh                                                                    Photo : Sanketha

Our Nade from left Sanketha ,Me ,Prince, Prasad, Dinesh Photo : Sanketha

We were running short of time. So gave up the idea of visiting Moray falls.

On the way scenery                                                                                                                                   Photo Sanketha

On the way scenery Photo Sanketha

Flowers                                                                                                                                                       Photo Sanketha

Flowers Photo Sanketha

13 km journey trough steep estate roads                                                                                                 Photo Sanketha

13 km journey trough steep estate roads Photo Sanketha

Three wheel drivers stopped few hundred meters away from the trail head and showed us a short cut. We settled their payments and walked towards trail head. After doing some rituals we started our hike at 3.10 p.m.

Walking towards trail head                                                                                                                     Photo: Sanketha

Walking towards trail head Photo: Sanketha

Trail Head( See the land mark)                                                                                                             Photo : HARINDA

Trail Head( See the land mark) Photo : HARINDA

After about 10 minutes we encountered some steep climbing. This section was the difficult part of the journey. We had to climb for about 30-40 minutes like this way. Then we reached a small flat rock . We rested for some while and proceeded. From here onwards trail became much easier.

Path                                                                                                                                                PHOTO : HARINDA

Path PHOTO : HARINDA

Taking a break                                                                                                                                      PHOTO: PRASAD

Taking a break PHOTO: PRASAD

Steep climb is begun                                                                                                                        PHOTO : HARINDA

Steep climb is begun PHOTO : HARINDA

Small flat rock …..We were resting ……….But

Small flat rock …..We were resting ……….But
other two are capturing the first view of SRI PADA PHOTO : HARINDA

First view of Sri Pada                                                                                                                   PHOTO : SANKETHA

First view of Sri Pada PHOTO : SANKETHA

We passed another small flat rock. Then we met the only remarkable water source in this forest trail. You have to walk more than 1.5 km from here onwards to reach mahagiridamba. Till then no water sources are there.
Kumaraya was uncomfortable from the beginning of the journey and he lost his control and fell down due to no reason. So we gave him plenty of bananas and water and Sanketha carried his bag till we reached Sandagalathena

Another flat rock                                                                                                                              PHOTO : SANKETHA

Another flat rock PHOTO : SANKETHA

Only remarkable water source .(Kumaraya was looking pale )                                                             Photo Harinda

Only remarkable water source .(Kumaraya was looking pale ) Photo Harinda

Fill maximum                                                                                                                                          Photo  : Prasad

Fill maximum Photo : Prasad

WILD LIFE                                                                                                                                                   Photo  : Prasad

WILD LIFE Photo : Prasad

By 4.45 p.m. we reached the legendary/Holly SANDAGALATHENNA( Moon rock plain). Some people name this as Mahagalthalawa. It is a large flat area where people used to do rituals to sacred peak. As this path is not commonly used, people have no idea about the value of this place. Some of them use this place to just have fun. We witnessed some garbage around this area. And another group who had come here before us were practicing a drama (using double meaning words) How foolish they were…But there were some evidences to prove that few people knowing the importance of this place.

When we reached the place sripada summit was covered with mist .so we decided to take a short rest. We laid down on the flat rock and had some refreshments. Once the mist was cleared every body of us began to click our cameras to get the magnificent view of the mountain

Sandagalathenna..Now Summit is covered with mist                                                                   Photo : Sanketha

Sandagalathenna..Now Summit is covered with mist Photo : Sanketha

Our Nade                                                                                                                                          Photo : HARINDA

Our Nade Photo : HARINDA

They were everywhere                                                                                                                        Photo : HARINDA

They were everywhere Photo : HARINDA

Zoomed                                                                                                                                               PHOTO : PRASAD

Zoomed PHOTO : PRASAD

Taking a short rest and anticipating for a clear view ( Remember we picked everything what we brought and put in a separate bag and brought our homes)                                                                   PHOTO : Prasad

Taking a short rest and anticipating for a clear view ( Remember we picked everything what we brought and put in a separate bag and brought our homes) PHOTO : Prasad

Now it’s getting cleared. Holly peak from Holly Plain.                                                                     Photo   : Harinda

Now it’s getting cleared. Holly peak from Holly Plain. Photo : Harinda

Uda Maluwa ………SADHU …….    SADHU……………..SADU                                                      Photo : Sanketha

Uda Maluwa ………SADHU ……. SADHU……………..SADU Photo : Sanketha

What a scenery                                              ……………………………………………………………….PHOTO : Prasad

What a scenery ……………………………………………………………….PHOTO : Prasad

Tree of PANDURU ………evidence  of knowledgeable people                                                 PHOTO : SANKETHA

Tree of PANDURU ………evidence of knowledgeable people PHOTO : SANKETHA

We also followed some rituals ………..                                                                                    PHOTO : SANKETHA

We also followed some rituals ……….. PHOTO : SANKETHA

Wish we could do these at night /under the shine of DURUTHU MOON                                   PHOTO : PRASAD

Wish we could do these at night /under the shine of DURUTHU MOON PHOTO : PRASAD

Actually we also didn’t know much about these rituals .I welcome anybody who‘d like to acknowledge us about the traditions associated with this legendary place. It would have better if we could stay the night here. But as ethical travelers we didn’t want to challenge wildlife rules .So cleaned the place, repacked our bags and we left the place around 5.15 P.M.

We’ll come again in a full moon day .and definitely spend the  night to experience and understand the Holly place

We’ll come again in a full moon day .and definitely spend the night to experience and understand the Holly place
Photo : Harinda

Path continues                                                                                                                                       Photo : Harinda

Path continues Photo : Harinda

Now the tree patterns changed                                                                                                        Photo :Sanketha

Now the tree patterns changed Photo :Sanketha

Getting Dark                                                                                                                                   PHOTO : HARINDA

Getting Dark PHOTO : HARINDA

Another View of the summit                                                                                                           PHOTO : HARINDA

Another View of the summit PHOTO : HARINDA

Misty Path                                                                                                                                          PHOTO : Sanketha

Misty Path PHOTO : Sanketha

Now very close …break to take a photo                                                                                               PHOTO : Dinesh

Now very close …break to take a photo PHOTO : Dinesh

Mist                                                                                                                                                        PHOTO : PRASAD

Mist PHOTO : PRASAD

Bathing in the mist                                                                                                                             PHOTO : PRASAD

Bathing in the mist PHOTO : PRASAD

Close to Mahagiridamba ( MALUWA PENI PENEE)                                                                  PHOTO : HARINDA

Close to Mahagiridamba ( MALUWA PENI PENEE) PHOTO : HARINDA

Just before Mahagiridamba                                                                                                                 PHOTO : HARINDA

Just before Mahagiridamba PHOTO : HARINDA

We reached Mahagiridamba just pass 6.00 p.m. Then we took a small break and started the final climb. Slowly but steadily we reached the summit around 7.15 p.m. We had spent nearly 4hrs to do this trail. And we finished the jungle trail within 3 hrs. I think this is the Par level. According to my knowledge total time range should be 3-5 hrs.

Mahagiridamba………..Start of steel bars        Joining the other Pilgrims                PHOTO : HARINDA

Mahagiridamba………..Start of steel bars Joining the other Pilgrims PHOTO : HARINDA

Bhagawa lena                                                                                                                 PHOTO : HARINDA

Bhagawa lena PHOTO : HARINDA

First we had a wash and changed our dresses. Then we worshiped the sacred foot print of Lord Buddha. This was my 8th visit. 7th of Sanketha’s .And Prince’s another one out of many many times. He was entered to my record book as he is the person with whom I have visited Sripada most number of times. It includes my first Sri Pada visit and my off season hike. Prasad Had worshiped Sripada for 3 times from Hatton. And this was his first wilderness experience

Since pilgrims were not allowed to stay in the summit, they all had fully occupied in main resting hall. So we gave up spending the night at summit. So we started descending via Ratnapura trail by 8.45 p.m. We reached Galwangediya junction at 10.00 p.m. where route split in to two ( Sripagama and Erathna ) . We had hot rice with cold curries (can’t expect more than this) for the dinner and chose the left ( Sripagama trail ) .

Galwangediya Shop(best place to have food in this route)                                                            Photo : HARINDA

Galwangediya Shop(best place to have food in this route) Photo : HARINDA

Split of trail   ( left Ratnapura ,right Kuruwita ) we have come nearly 2 km from summit .There is 6.5 kms more to Sripa Gama … So better to take a rest                                                                                        PHOTO : SANKETHA

Split of trail ( left Ratnapura ,right Kuruwita ) we have come nearly 2 km from summit .There is 6.5 kms more to Sripa Gama … So better to take a rest PHOTO : SANKETHA

We all decided (Specially Kumaraya ; I call him Nidi kumaraya ) to take a rest for few hours. So we looked in Haramitpana Ambalama but we couldn’t find any space due to heavy crowd. Then we request from the nearby shop and they were willing to give us a room @Rs. 100/- per head. So we happily stepped into the room. They gave some Mats (PADURU) and Sanketha’s Sleeping bag was handy as we unfolded and placed upon Mats to avoid cold. We nearly had 3 hrs sleep and woke up at 1.30 a.m.Although we were in a well covered room even with a concrete ceiling the cold was unbearable. Kumaraya was freezing and I had to give my sweater to him. Then we packed our bags and re started. We passed Seetha gangula, Dharmaraja gala, Indikatupahana and Lihini hela respectively.

Walking under moon light                                                                                                            PHOTO : Harinda

Walking under moon light PHOTO : Harinda

After passing Seetha Gangula                                                                                                        PHOTO : Harinda

After passing Seetha Gangula PHOTO : Harinda

Steps of Dharmarajagala                                                                                                                   PHOTO : Harinda

Steps of Dharmarajagala PHOTO : Harinda

Indikatu Pahana                                                                                                                               PHOTO : Sanketha

Indikatu Pahana PHOTO : Sanketha

Starting point of Kalu Ganga                                                                                                   PHOTO : HARINDA

Starting point of Kalu Ganga PHOTO : HARINDA

Sanda Ras wathure Kimidenne…………………………………………………                                PHOTO : SANKETHA

Sanda Ras wathure Kimidenne………………………………………………… PHOTO : SANKETHA

When we reach the Lihinihela observation point I wanted to take a picture of this notice board. Thin I realized that I had left my camera in the previous resting place which was 600 + steps up. So I had to go for it. Sanketha the ever helping friend came with me despite of all knee problems he had and ran quickly and picked the camera for me before I reached there. (Also before anybody else picked it).Million Thanks to Sanketha. While we were coming back our friends had reached the Lihinihela Ambalama carrying our baggages too. It’s very important to do tough hikes with friends who can understand each other’s Feelings/sufferings. Also I should thank Lihini Akka for reminding me about that. We had a half an hour nap at Lihinihela and started descending final 2 km at 5.00 a.m

Notice board near PAWANELLLA                                                                                         PHOTO :SANKETHA

Notice board near PAWANELLLA PHOTO :SANKETHA

PHOTO : HARINDA

PHOTO : HARINDA

Important notice                                                                                                                         PHOTO :SANKETHA

Important notice PHOTO :SANKETHA

Important notice                                                                                                                      PHOTO :SANKETHA

Important notice PHOTO :SANKETHA

Morning rays has arrived                                                                                                               PHOTO :SANKETHA

Morning rays has arrived PHOTO :SANKETHA

Steps never ending                                                                                                                     PHOTO :SANKETHA

Steps never ending PHOTO :SANKETHA

Last stream we crossed ( taken from the bridge)                                                                       PHOTO :SANKETHA

Last stream we crossed ( taken from the bridge) PHOTO :SANKETHA

Our Nade After finishing the descending of 8.5km (at the trail head of SriPagama)                  PHOTO : SANKETHA

Our Nade After finishing the descending of 8.5km (at the trail head of SriPagama) PHOTO : SANKETHA

We reached the end of the trail around 7.00 a.m. important thing which I observed after two years is that now they have a concreted road to go to another village which is higher than Sripagama. We first went to a shop/house which is closer to a good bathing place and asked whether they could prepare us breakfast. Since they agreed we had a good bath in the stream to wash away our tiredness and had a delicious breakfast (Game Kama)

Good Morning my dear Hikers                                                                                                      PHOTO : HARINDA

Good Morning my dear Hikers PHOTO : HARINDA

House /shop where we had breakfast                                                                                         PHOTO : HARINDA

House /shop where we had breakfast PHOTO : HARINDA

Path to river is laid beside the house                                                                                        PHOTO : HARINDA

Path to river is laid beside the house PHOTO : HARINDA

Place where we had a cool dip                                                                                                  PHOTO : HARINDA

Place where we had a cool dip PHOTO : HARINDA

After finishing a hearty meal we asked the directions to Mapalana falls from the shop owner. He arranged us a Fiago Three wheeler which could accommodate all five of us .Kumaraya sat on my aching legs to aggravate the pain. After saying good bye to the village house we headed towards the 4th highest waterfall in Sri Lanka.

First glimpse     There was another group …………………………………………                            PHOTO : HARINDA

First glimpse There was another group ………………………………………… PHOTO : HARINDA

MAPALANA – 4Th Highest waterfall                                                                                           PHOTO : HARINDA

MAPALANA – 4Th Highest waterfall PHOTO : HARINDA

Colourful                                                                                                                                      PHOTO : PRASAD

Colourful PHOTO : PRASAD

Kumaraya was seeking some adventure                                                                                       PHOTO : HARINDA

Kumaraya was seeking some adventure PHOTO : HARINDA

OUR NADE – Final pose of the trip                                                                                        PHOTO : SANKETHA

OUR NADE – Final pose of the trip PHOTO : SANKETHA

We told the driver to drop us at a bus stop near Sripagama. We Got into a Ratnapura bus and reached Ratnapura around 11.00 a.m. Sanketha said us goodbye and got in to Panadura bus while others got in to Colombo bus. Me and Kumaraya were at home around 3.30 p.m. while Prasad and Dinesh were their homes before 6.00

THANKS FOR READING
SUMANA SAMAN DEVIPIHITAI

Four Day Trip to Kandy To Visit important Buddhist Temples in and around Kandy

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Year and Month January, 2014 (13th 14th 15th 16th)
Number of Days Four Day Trip
Crew 2
Activities Visit important Buddhist Temples in and around Kandy And Observe sill at the Dalada Maligawa on Dhurutu Poya day
Weather Excellent
Author Soysa
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Visit to:

  • Malwatta Maha Viharaya
  • Asgiriya Maha Viharaya
  • Gedige Temple
  • The Garrison Cemetery
  • The Second World War Military cemetery
  • Galmaduwa Temple
  • Degaldoruwa Viharaya
  • Pitiye Devale
  • Gangaramaya Raja Maha Viharaya.

We left early morning on 13th January 2014 to Kandy and arriving there 11.00.in the morning we kept our luggage at the Sarvodaya center. Had lunch in town and visited the places Important Buddhist Viharayas in town itself.

As I am neither Archeologist nor a Historian. Hence I acknowledge that I get all information from the Internet and books prior planning the trip so that I know what We are seeing at the site.
That information I have inserted in the description.

Our First stop was the MalwattaMahaViharaya opposite the DaladaMaligawa.

It is one of the major Buddhist monasteries of two nikayas (orders) of ‘Theravada’ Buddhism in Sri Lanka. Malwatte Maha Viharaya and the Asgiri Maha Viharaya are the responsible caretakers of the sacred tooth relic in Kandy.

Entrance Gate Thorana to the Malwatta temple

Entrance Gate Thorana to the Malwatta temple

Reverend WelvityeSaranankaraMahaThero and Reverend UpaliMahaThero

Reverend WelvityeSaranankaraMahaThero and Reverend UpaliMahaThero

The ‘Weliwita Saranankara Sangaraja was the last ‘Sangaraja’ or the king of the monks, a title bestowed by King Kirthi Sri Rajasinghe.

When values were fast disintegrating and the ‘Dhamma’ suffered serious setbacks during the turbulent period that Ven. Weliwita Sri Saranankara Thero undertook to restore Buddhism in the island. The task was not easy but the Thero was convinced that the lifeblood of the Sasanawas discipline and monks who had received higher ordination should hold sway in the Buddhist order. Thus he sought the patronage of Kirthi Sri Rajasinghe (1747-1780) and also members of his association to bring to Sri Lanka, Buddhist monks who had received higher ordination.

The Thero was supported in his efforts by Mohottala of Wilbagedara who facing great dangers at sea, journeyed to Siam to bring back with him monks who could help in achieving this aim.

Impressed by the heroism of Ven. Sri Saranankara Thero, Upali, the Siamese priest trained him for higher ordination. Later he was declared Chief Sanga Nayaka or ‘Sangaraja’ of the island.

The building on the right is the units of the temples

The building on the right is the units of the temples

The poyage Belonging to the Malwatta Chapter

The poyage Belonging to the Malwatta Chapter

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Next was a visit to The AsgiriyaMahaViharaya

The Thorana(gate) at the entrance to the temple

The Thorana(gate) at the entrance to the temple

The temple is the head quarters of the Siyammahanikaya. It is believed that all the reigned kings gradually developed and constructed the monastic centre.

The temple was built by Commander Siriwardhana of Parakramabahu 4 (1305-1335 A.D) in Kurunegala era. The bhikkus, sent from the ‘Valasgala temple’ of Yapahuwa are dwelled at the Asgiriya premise. The name Asgiri is derived from the ‘Valasgala’.

Another version is that the temple was named after the cremation of the mother queen of King Vikramabahu. In past, the Asiriya temple was a education centre for princes. It is one of reputed places of the Maha sangha of the Maha vihara tradition in accordance to the written records which dates back about 700 years. In addition the Vihariya sangha had to safe guard the sacred tooth relic of Buddha several times due to the troublesome situations. Wariyapola Sumangala Anunayaka Thero who re-hoisted the Sri Lankan flag in resist when the British hoisted their flag before signing the Kandiyan Convention in 1815 is a historical incident bound with the AsgiriyaMahaviharaya.

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Close to the Asgiriya Temple is the Gedige templewhere the relic casket of the Dalada Maligwa in the final night of the Esala perahera is kept overnight. So on the final day of the Perahera is begun from here. This is ritual was begun by King Kirthi Sri Rajasingha as a respect to his queen mother.

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Asgiriya Adahanamaluwa or the Gedige Rajamaha Viharaya was constructed by Great king Wickramabahu the 3rd and was constructed in memory of his loving mother, the princess Chandrawathi and is the oldest temple in Kandy, was believed to be constructed around 1312 and has seven hundred years of history.

The Gedige Rajamaha Viharaya is also known as Asgiriya Adahanamaluwa temple was named, because princess Chandrawathi’s body was buried at temple premises. The entire temple was built in stone and was the traditional construction of the period and was known as the late Pallawa style. The old paintings in the shrine room are of great archaeological importance, has a resemblance to the paintings found in the Temple of the tooth and were painted during King Sri Wickrama Rajasingha’s reign.

The dragon archway(Makara Thorana) , Guard stones, carved doors, Frescoes ,stone pillars ,rock inscriptions and Hevisi Mandapaya are very old and rare archaeological items are still can be seen at Gedige Rajamaha Viharaya. The frescoes and painting have three hundred years of history.

From the Gedige temple we went to see the War cemeteryThe Garrison Cemetery of the British Period near the Dalada Maligawa.

Prince Charles visited the cemetery when he came to inaugurate the CHOGM meeting on November 2013.

Map of the cemetery

Map of the cemetery

Entry by Prince Charles on his visit

Entry by Prince Charles on his visit

The cemetery was induced in 1817 when as soon as the British retained the control of the kingdom of Kandy. The cemetery was open until 1870 but cause of the lack of space it was closed. The cemetery was a memorial of former noblemen and governors. The cemetery was maintained by the Commonwealth war graves commission. Most of the graves are of the war heroes who dedicated their lives for the World War 2.

There are graveyards of youngsters and elders who came to Sri Lanka in Colonial days from England and North Britain countries can be seen in the cemetery. There are over 150 British graves in the Kandy garrison cemetery. The remaining tombstones and well maintained grave yards have made a peaceful environment on behalf of the busy environment.

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

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The colonial officer Sir John D’Oyly who knew Sinhala very well later succumbed with cholera, buried in the cemetery at the spot above.

Walking among the graves and reading the information on the listed tombstones is a much different experience. Some of the grave yards are of young baits of malaria, cholera, elephant stampedes, typhoid tragic accidents or war. Especially kirk yards of some middle cast gentlemen like doctors, soldiers, lawyers, carpenters and government servants are positioned. In addition some of the graves are of infants and women as well. Actually the garrison cemetery is a lovely colonial find.

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William Watson Mackwoods who died in 1867 due to a sudden accident while on a horse riding, David Findlay who died in 1861 killed of a crash in his house and John Spottiswood Roberson who died of a attack by a wild elephant are just few of the appeared information on few tombstones erected in the cemetery.

Next we visited the Second World War Military cemetery close to KingswoodCollege on the old Peradeniya Kandy road.

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During World War II Ceylon was a naval and air force base, a training ground for jungle warfare and a hospital and leave centre. Having become the hub of maritime power in the Indian Ocean, it was the headquarters of the Supreme Allied Commander, Southeast Asia Command, from April 1944 to November 1945. Except for the servicemen and women who lost their Lives during the single air attack on the island, most of the casualties that occurred during this war were due to sickness or accidents

 Kandy War Cemetery at Pitakanda merits special mention, as it is often singled out as one of the most beautifully landscaped and maintained war cemeteries in the world. In a memorial erected in this cemetery in 1973 bears the names of 28 Italian prisoners of war who died in Ceylon between 1939 and 1945.

The Pitakande Military Cemetery, as it was acquired originally by the military authorities, and was subsequently taken over by the Commonwealth war graves commission as a permanent war cemetery. The Army Graves Service transferred war graves from Diyatalawa Boer Military Cemetery; (including graves which had previously been moved from Diyatalawa Camp Cemetery and Diyakaduwa Cemetery and from Bandarawala); Galkissa General Cemetery; IhalaVitiyala Burial Ground; Kandy Civil Cemetery; Kollonawa Burial Ground; Kotagala Forest Creek Cemetery; Mahaiyawa Cemetery; Murugampola Cemetery; Rawatawatte General Cemetery, Moratura; Tibotugoda Etakorasa Cemetery and Trincomalee Hindu and Buddhist Cemetery.

In 1958 the Commission moved in two graves from Kandy Civil Cemetery where permanent maintenance could not be assured. The special memorial Type C commemorates a naval man known to have been buried in the cemetery but whose grave could not be precisely located. It bears the superscription “Buried near this spot”. There is 1 Commonwealth burial of the 1914-1918 war and a further 196 Commonwealth burials of the 1939-1945 war commemorated here. In addition there are 4 Foreign National and 2 non world war burials. No. of Identified Casualties: 201 (Source: CWGC)

Having rested in the evening we retired to the room at Sarvodaya center near the Dalada Maligawa as we both observed SIL on Dhurutu Poya day 15th January 2014 at the Dalada Maligawa. being the first Poya of the year.

Next Day after Poya we started to visit the rest of the important and famous Buddhist temples in and close to Kandy.

Our first stop was Galmaduwa Temple

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Traveling towards the Kundasala Road in Kandy, there is an incomplete Raja maha Vihara of Galmaduwa. It is a stone built temple of singular interest as it exhibits features not found in the other buildings of the Senkadagala period. It is of curious composite design: encircling the dome.This temple could be reached by proceeding one mile on the Kalapura Road from Nattaranpota, which is on the Kandy-Kundasale Road.

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The Galmaduwa viharaya is an impressive building of strange architecture. As its local name suggests, it is basically a pavilion built of stone and brick. But a high gopuram gives it a Hindu identity. There is an ad mixture of Tamil-Hindu influence within the Buddhist place of worship.

It is a structure consisting of seven diminishing storeys, revealing a Tanjore influence. Around this is a rectangular wall with arches that betray western influence. There would have been an even older dagoba on this site before the Galmaduwa Vihara was built.

It is said that King Keerthi Sri Rajasinghe of Senkadagala era was engaged in completing this, he heard of the discovery of a secret tunnel at Degaldoruwa and stopped the work on Galmaduwa Therefore, and the unfinished building was not used as a temple. But now a day it occupied by Buddhist monks.

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The lower story is built of stone and the upper story is built of brick which represents the 7 dimensions of Vimana (A type of an ancient flying machine). The lower story of Galmaduwa is built of stone and the upper storeys of brick and stone masonry in seven diminishing stages to represent a vimana. It is 60 feet square at the base and tapering at the top and hence called a gedige. Around this is a rectangular stone work with arches on it

Historianssays that;

“Galmaduwa Viharaya probably enjoys the unique distinction of being the most Hindu-looking Buddhist temple in existence”

Describing its architectural features he says : “The central building is surrounded by a massive wall with an overhanging and deeply moulded cornice, the outer wall is pierced on three sides by five windows; on the fourth, which is on the west side, the place of the central window is taken by a doorway of slightly larger dimensions. The distance between the central building and the outer wall according to rough measurement is 14 feet. The former is 29 feet, the latter 16 feet square. There are but two doorways, one into the enclosure and one opposite it into the sanctum. They are each 6 feet wide, the windows 4 1/2 feet. The thickness of the outer wall is 3 ¼ feet, not including the mouldings of the wall of the sanctum 3 feet.

According to Lewis “The most interesting feature about this building is the shape of the arches of the doorways and the windows. They are semi circular cusped arches with a keystone.

The door at the entrance to the enclosure has six of these cusps; the widows two only.

The door of the viharaya had also only two cusps, but the apex is formed of an ogee arch. There is a massive stone border or framing around the windows around the exterior and this framing includes the arch, the outer line of which is simply semi circular.

The sanctum is furnished in the interior with the asane, the pedestal or throne for the image, but otherwise is quite bare.

The brick domed roof is unplastered. Immediately at the back of the outer wall of the building erected on the eastern side and within six feet of it, is a small vihara built by the villagers some 125 years ago in lieu of the imposing structure never to be completed.

They erected this building because they were unable to raise the unfinished main temple. The mean work of the more modern plastered building consorts ill with the massive stone and brick masonry of the original but unfinished temple.”

Inside the main building

Inside the main building

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From there we visited DegaldoruwaViharaya

The temple is built into a large rock outcrop & consists of three small connected chambers: the first two-the digge & antechamber – are built outside the rock & topped by wooden roofs. The third chamber, the main shrine, is cut into the rock itself.

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This is a cave temple built by Rajasingha, the younger brother of Kirti Sri Rajasingha, in 1771 A.D. at the foot of a rock mass about 40 feet high. In the inner part of the Viharaya is a large recumbent image of the Buddha. On the rock summit is the old Bo-tree and the Dagaba. The Pitiye Devale which had been built about a 100 years ago is no more. The Degaldoruwa copper plate grant of Rajadhi Rajasingha explaining the work carried out at Degaldoruwa says:

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“Degaldoruwa murals are considered the outstanding examples of this style of painting. Particularly significant is the well articulated link work which is used very desolately. Equally effective are the brilliant red backgrounds which set off the lighter figures to great advantage. In this particular scene one could notice a sufficiently eloquent narrative quality both in the crowded grouping and the change in the direction of movement of figures, the turning with gifts; a very unusual use of blue, it is very likely intended to produce this special effect. (Courtesy Internet)

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A strong narrative sense can also be detected and the expressive forward tilt of the bodies of those receiving the gifts. It is not difficult to contrast the impressive look on the face of Vessantara with the eagerness for those waiting to receive the gifts or with the sense of satisfaction on the faces of those who are returning with gifts, especially of the women. Particularly significant is the ornamental role of the architectural decoration as well as the lotuses filling the empty spaces”.

It is believed that these murals were painted by  Deveragala Silvaththera,  Devendra Muulachaari,  Hiriyale Naide and Koswatte Siththara Naide.

It is believed that these murals were painted by Deveragala Silvaththera, Devendra Muulachaari, Hiriyale Naide and Koswatte Siththara Naide.

It is believed that these murals were painted by  Deveragala Silvaththera,  Devendra Muulachaari,  Hiriyale Naide and Koswatte Siththara Naide.

It is believed that these murals were painted by Deveragala Silvaththera, Devendra Muulachaari, Hiriyale Naide and Koswatte Siththara Naide.

While the Degaldoruva paintings were started by King Kirti Sri Rajasinghe, the king had died before they were completed. It was during the reign of his younger brother, King RajadhiRajasinghe, who succeeded him, that they were completed. After the work was done, the king had handed it over to Moratota Dhammarakhkhita Nayaka Thera, who was his teacher. Popularly known as Moratota Hamuduruwo, he was a very learned monk.

Four ‘Sittara’ painters are credited with the Degaldoruva paintings. Among them, Devendra Mulachari is regarded as the leader. Devaragampola Silvattenne Unnanase was the best known out of them. ‘Silvat Unananses’ were those who had become monks but not received higher ordination or ‘upasampada’. In addition to Degaldoruva, he has also drawn the paintings at Ridi Vihara. Hiriyale Naide and Nilagama Patabendi are the other two painters.

Four Jataka tales are seen in the ‘budu-ge’, the image house. These are portrayed as continuous stories. When the devotee walks from one end to the other, the story unfolds from beginning to end. Vessantara Jataka, Sattubhatta Jataka, Sutasoma Jataka and Mahaseelava Jataka are the four stories of the Bodhisatva which are depicted at Degaldoruva.

A feature of the paintings is that the figures, whether they be humans, animals, trees or any other, generally are of a uniform size. Another feature is that the back view of human figures are not shown. It is always the front view or the side view that the devotee sees. The trees take a stylised form where a tree is shown with branches and leaves spread on either side. A stream can be identified by a few fish swimming and some floral decorations. The prominent colours used are red and green. Colours were made from the bark of trees found in the village.

The Degaldoruva paintings are some of the finest portraying folk tradition; they also depict the clothes the people wore and the houses they lived in. The clothes show a distinct difference between what was worn by people in the low country and those worn by upcountry people. Inside the houses, the furniture is also shown. Thus these paintings are important in studying the social conditions in the 18th century.

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Paintings on the roof of the Viharaya

Paintings on the roof of the Viharaya

Alongside the temple is an impressive belfry

Alongside the temple is an impressive belfry

The next was the Pitiye Devale which had been built about 100 years ago.

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The doors leading from here into the main shrine have metal fittings which were formerly studded with jewels.

The doors leading from here into the main shrine have metal fittings which were formerly studded with jewels.

Next back to Kandy we turnoff right to visit the Gangaramaya Raja MahaViharaya Renowned for its murals of the Kandyan Sittara art, “Gangarama Raja Maha Viharaya” is attributed to King Kirti Sri Rajasinhe (1747 – 1781). The temple is named “Gangarama” due to its location near the great Mahaweli river in Lewella.

There are eighteen stone pillars in the verandah with a half wall and the out walls of the image house has painted  the hell (Apaya), can see four enters to enter the verandah  and the main entrance has used to enter the Athul Kutiya with the decorated Makaratorana.

There are eighteen stone pillars in the verandah with a half wall and the out walls of the image house has painted the hell (Apaya), can see four enters to enter the verandah and the main entrance has used to enter the Athul Kutiya with the decorated Makaratorana.

A rock inscription in this temple describes the Building of the temple by the King:

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“When Kirti Sri having being inaugurated king of Lanka noticed a stone statue of ancient date, in a rock lying in the palmyra garden and caused a viharaya to be made containing stone walls of 13 cubits in length 7 in breadth and 11 in height surrounded by stone pillars and above a roof with rafters covered with tiles. Within the walls a stone image of 9 cubits in height was made, beautified its robe with vermillion painting, covered its different members with golden leaves painted around with paintings of five hues and completed it after enshrining it with relics.

In the year 1752 AD when all the work of the supremely magnificent image of Buddha variegated with golden workmanship were completed in the viharaya, bearing the appellation of

Gangaramaya two eyes were affixed to the image with great solemnity, rejoicing and excessive offerings, and then satisfied the workmen by giving then appropriate gifts”

According to this inscription this location has been already a place of veneration with an Image of Buddha by the time King Kirti Sri Rajasinhe (1747 – 1781) built the temple. Gangarama was earlier associated with the educational activities of Velivita Sri Saranankara Thero.

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The paintings in this temple depict scenes of Buddha in this birth and of Jataka Stories. Even today they are valued as excellent examples Kandyan Sittara Art. The decorated eave tiles with the lion symbol, the high roof structure and above all the large standing figure of the Buddha 27 feet height surrounded by walls of paintings, speak for the artistic and religious of the Kings of that day.

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The Image House has built attach to a rock and the building has partitioned as athul Kutiya and the Verandah, There is a standing Buddha in the building and walls with the sealing have painted by Kandyan Paintings but we can see only, the character of the Buddha,

Thus by evening we returned to our room and left for Colombo by late evening.

Thank you for reading

Harsha Soysa

 

Hike For Humanity Project reaches the hands of underprivileged

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Year and Month December, 2013
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 9 (between 21-26 years of age – Old Cadets of Zahira College,Mawanella)
Accommodation Private houses
Transport Public Transport Bus and Van
Activities Photography, Hiking, Camping, Donation, Charity Project, Fun Games
Weather Rainy
Route Mawanella -> Yatiyantota -> Halgolla -> Wewalthalawa and return on the same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Avissawela road was in refurbishment stage from Galigamuwa Junction.
Author Shafraz Khahir
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hike for Humanity project is an innovative and inspirational project interlinking the concept of hiking and humanity. That is to help underprivileged school students on the annual hike of Old Cadets Association (OCA). To begin with the project the #HikeForHumanity Concept was familiarized on the social media as well as in Zahira College Mawanella. And from 01/12/2013 the collection of books from the College and Old Cadets was started with over whelming response of the principal and the staff as well as students. Day by day the books were flocking in the Hike for Humanity project box placed at school. Many students made their contributions to make a lot happier.

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We already informed about our project to Wewalthalawa Tamil M.M.V principal Mr.Mahendran and he welcomed our idea and provided all the required information we needed. We gathered all the donated exercise books and stationeries on 14th night and prepared our gift parcels. Each parcel included 7 exercise books, 1 drawing book, 2 pen, 2 pencils, 1 eraser, 1 sharpener and a ruler. Apart from the standard package we packed pastel color boxes, gum bottles, stapler, instrument boxes and etc for various grade students.

We left Mawanella around 3.50 pm in a hired van on Sunday 15th. Our van driver tried his best to catch the last bus from Yatiyantota to Halgolla which is scheduled for 6 pm. But as Awissawela road is being constructed we were able to reach Yatiyantota at 6.10 pm. We came to know that the last bus left 30 minutes from the scheduled time so we had to take the same vehicle to Halgolla. Halgolla road is carpeted very well where I could not find that kind of road in main cities even. But the last 1 km from the Halgolla tea factory is too damaged.

Mr. Mahendran, the principal of Wewalthalawa Tamil M.M.V who is residing in Holgolla was expecting us and we reached his house around 7.15 pm. He provided us a good shelter in his house. We made our dinner bread and Sambola with the help of Mr.Mahendran and his family. After the dinner we started to schedule our next day event and arrange the gifts in the order.

Preparing the gift packs

Preparing the gift packs

It’s going to be a colour full hike

It’s going to be a colour full hike

Ideally we were planned to start climbing Wewalthalawa from Halgolla at night but Mr.Mahendran advised us that there were incidents reported in the jungle on treasure hunting. So we drop that idea and planned to start the hike next day morning

HikeForHumanity crew with gift packs

HikeForHumanity crew with gift packs

Leaving Mr. Mahendran’s house with gift boxes

Leaving Mr. Mahendran’s house with gift boxes

We started our next day hiking with our donation packs around 7.00 am. From Halgolla Tea Factory to Wewalthalawa there is road paved, we had to walk through the road and each and every bend were starting with high ascending degrees. So we walked with our last time memories which directed in 2008. We came to this Wewalthalwa in 2008 with our Cadet Platoon and went several places like Worlds End, Hidden Waterfalls in the villages and etc.

Walking through Halgolla village

Walking through Halgolla village

Mr. Mahendran and his children accompanied us

Mr. Mahendran and his children accompanied us

Not too heavy…

Not too heavy…

Every bend was so ascending, even in memories

Every bend was so ascending, even in memories

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It’s there….

It’s there….

With those memories and the will to reach the destination we walked our nerves through high degrees of altitude. And on our way up we were able to see a cable chain which might have been used by the factory some years back to transport tea leaves. As those cables are held up by the help of small towers, some of our boys decided to have a look on climbing the tower. And in between the road and the basement of the tower there was a rough patch of bushes. Though the bushes were rough we decided that its not wise to keep a foot in the bushes as it would pull us inside the hole. And we found a log and kept in-between the two and we reached the tower. And 1 of our guys without taking note of that kept his foot on the bushes and suddenly he vanished down. Fortunately when he called him back he was ok and with some effort he came up. It was a shock as well as humour for all of us.

These cables were used to transport tea leaves in British period, but now they are not working

These cables were used to transport tea leaves in British period, but now they are not working

It was a breathtaking view from top of the tower… but not a good idea to climb

It was a breathtaking view from top of the tower… but not a good idea to climb

Finally we found the guy whom vanished in a second

Finally we found the guy whom vanished in a second

And little by little our distance vanished and the beautiful village of Wewelathalawa came to our sight. And we were able see the school from a distance and we were able to see the children who have come in the school uniforms even though it was a public holiday. And when we reached the school the students welcomed us warmly and we kept our luggage and the gift items and got ready for the presentation and in the mean time we found some good time to mingle with the small ones and to play some games with them.

This how we welcomed by nature. It’s a really beautiful village

This how we welcomed by nature. It’s a really beautiful village

Taken from school entrance

Taken from school entrance

Misty mountains..

Misty mountains..

The yellow colour building is the school

The yellow colour building is the school

Welcome to Wewalthalawa

Welcome to Wewalthalawa

And finally the presentation started in the presence of the principal, parents and the villagers. We were really amazed to see the children who were taking part in some activities. It was doubtful even the urban children would not be able to match their talent. And finally ending our program, We presented the books to the students. They were really happy to be awarded the stuff. And we too were seeing the young buds bloom with their smile.

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Shoe is not important for Football

Shoe is not important for Football

Volley ball time

Volley ball time

These girls are always backward; we have to take them forward in their life

These girls are always backward; we have to take them forward in their life

Run for your life…

Run for your life…

Donating gift packs to students.

Donating gift packs to students.

One of our Old Cadet and Moratuwa University student is encouraging the young buds for education..

One of our Old Cadet and Moratuwa University student is encouraging the young buds for education..

Lt. Ziyard is presenting office stationeries to Mr.Mahendran

Lt. Ziyard is presenting office stationeries to Mr.Mahendran

Lt. Ziyard is talking to parents and teachers on importance of Educating the children. College principal Mr. Mahendran stands next to him

Lt. Ziyard is talking to parents and teachers on importance of Educating the children. College principal Mr. Mahendran stands next to him

Time didn’t permit to visit the waterfalls and the Worlds End point. Mr. Mahendran said that the Worlds End point has refurbished now by estate Management for better sighting experience. And he asked us another visit in future to just see the beauty of the village.

It’s a cute smile with no other words.

It’s a cute smile with no other words.

Happiness is something different when we shared with others

Happiness is something different when we shared with others

Our crew is celebrating with students

Our crew is celebrating with students

Finishing our function we turned back home at around 1.pm to catch the bus from Halgolla which was at 2.30. We rushed to catch the bus and ran through the roads and finally when we reached Halgolla we came to know that there were no buses that day and we would have to walk nearly 15 km to Yatiyanthota. And with no option left we made our move and with great effort we covered the whole distance by our foot and making our skins out. At around 5.30 we reached yatiyanthota and from there we got on to the bus and came back to Mawanella with some heart melting memories.

Our Members with Wewalthalawa TMV students, Principal, Teachers and some parents

Our Members with Wewalthalawa TMV students, Principal, Teachers and some parents

A girl is expressing her #ThankYouZahira feelings…

A girl is expressing her #ThankYouZahira feelings…

දෙහෙනකන්දෙන් සිරිපා කරුණාකර උඩමාලිබොඩෙන් බැස්සෙමු (Sri Pada from Dehenakanda to Udamaliboda)

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Year and Month February, 2014 (17th and 18th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 03 (Tharaka, Upul and Myself)
Accommodation Adiyamalathenna Pilgrimage Rest (ආඩියාමලතැන්න අම්බලම)
Transport By bus, three wheeler and climbing
Activities Mountain climbing, Photography and Spiritual activity
Weather Excellent
Route Colombo->Rathnapura -> Hapugasthanna Tea Estate-> Hatharaganga Division(හත්දාරගග) ->Mukkuwaththa (මුක්කුවත්ත) ->Sri Pada peak-> Kuruwita Road->Pandeniya (පන්දෙනිය)->Udamaliboda (උඩමාලිබොඩ) ->Maliboda (මාලිබොඩ)->Deraniyagala (දැරණියගල) ->Awissawella->Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • First bus for Mukkuwaththa from Rathnapura bus stand starts at 6.15am. It will go to Dehenakanda and you can get down at the road towards Mukkuwaththa by 7.40am.Then you have to walk about 2km to reach the trail head along the estate road. (Via the short cut).Last bus from Mukkuwaththa to Rathnapura at 3.15pm. There may/may not be 4.00pm bus to Rathnapura.
  • Dehenakanda-Mukkuwaththa road has following features.
    • Foot pathway is wide up to certain extent as this pathway is used by estate workers to go to the forest. Therefore this part is maintained during off season as well
    • Foot pathway is narrow after “Menik Ganga” මැණික් ගග -Geththampana ගෙත්තම්පාන/Mahawali Ganga මහවැලි ගග and would be vanished among Nelu bushes in offseason. This part is cleared after starting the season. (This time it was done for February Poya Day). Therefore it is difficult to find it before clearance.
    • Total Distance from trail head at Hatharaganga Division to the point it meets Rathnapura road is 12 km. We spent 11 hours to pass this distance including 1hour bath and rest at Mahawali River. (In contrast villagers spend only 4-5hours up to Udamaluwa by this route).
    • Foot pathway goes through peak wilderness. Water streams are abundant with Leeches. Therefore no worries about drinking water sources. Things may change with dry weather. We met only one leech for whole climbing.
    • Last climbing from base of Adam’s peak is strenuous climbing and mainly through Nelu bushes. We had to tackle last 1km-2km in the dusk. Therefore better carry a torch/overhead light.
    • If you are reluctant to do whole climbing by one day, can spend night at Mahaweli Ganga. (Refer Trip Report). There are places closer to water streams good for night camping as well.
    •  Not like main trails of Sri Pada (Hatton/Rathnapura and Kuruwita) no resting places with shelters at all. (Except Somarathna Ambalama-සෝමරත්න අම්බලම).So be prepared for the rain as well.
    •  Follow rituals and avoid bad behaviors (Alcohol/ Smoking) as this is not a routine trip, it is a pilgrimage.
    •  Don’t litter and minimize polythene and plastic. Unfortunately we could notice garbage around Mahaweli Ganga and Bothiya Dola-බෝතිය දොල.
  • Udamaliboda-Deraniyagala trail has similar features with Dehenakanda-Mukkuwaththa route.
  • A lot of water streams were dry during this visit.
  • No buses from Pandeniya to Udamaliboda. There is a bus from Deraniyagala to Udamaliboda. Better heir a three wheel from Pandeniya to Maliboda (Rs 900) and there are buses from Maliboda to Deraniyagala even till 5.30-6.00pm.
Related Resources
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

This was my ninth visit to sacred foot print and I wanted to do it in combination of two uncommon routes. My plan was to climbing up by Dehenakanda-Mukkuwaththa road and getting down from Udamaliboda-Deraniyagala road. As I have been at these two routes before I could guide my other two companions.
We got the earliest bus to Dehenakanda from Rathnapura bus stand by 6.15am. It reaches the road towards Mukkuwaththa by 7.40am. Then we followed a short cut to the trail head.

Historical details about Dehenakanda-Mukkuwaththa road. (Quoted from Lankadeepa news paper.)

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

Click Image to Enlarge

This is the junction you have to get down from the bus. Bus will continue towards Dehenakanda in red arrow direction. Green arrow shows the road towards Mukkuwaththa.

This is the junction you have to get down from the bus. Bus will continue towards Dehenakanda in red arrow direction. Green arrow shows the road towards Mukkuwaththa.

Hapugasthanna Tea Estate.  One of an organized tea estates  I have seen.

Hapugasthanna Tea Estate. One of an organized tea estates I have seen.

Hatharaganga Division of Hapugasthanna Tea estate.  Mukkuwaththa lime houses are seen.  Black arrow shows our trail through peak wilderness. Black circle shows “Rama Kallu (රාම කල්ලු) .”(Rama Kallu is a rock which has a Trident mark on it.) Trail goes closer to Rama Kallu.

Hatharaganga Division of Hapugasthanna Tea estate. Mukkuwaththa lime houses are seen. Black arrow shows our trail through peak wilderness. Black circle shows “Rama Kallu (රාම කල්ලු) .”(Rama Kallu is a rock which has a Trident mark on it.) Trail goes closer to Rama Kallu.

Closer view of “Rama Kallu”. Note mark of Trident on it.

Closer view of “Rama Kallu”. Note mark of Trident on it.

This is an important junction. If you are going by a vehicle you have to follow the road shown by the arrow towards Adams Peak Foot Path. But this is too long if you are going by foot. There is a short cut to reach the trail head on other side.

This is an important junction. If you are going by a vehicle you have to follow the road shown by the arrow towards Adams Peak Foot Path. But this is too long if you are going by foot. There is a short cut to reach the trail head on other side.

Crossing a small bridge to reach the trail head.

Crossing a small bridge to reach the trail head.

At trail head. This Buddha statue is at the beginning of the trail. The proper road is shown by black arrow. Short cut is shown by green arrow. Foot pathway is shown by red arrow. Chief supervisor of the estate is here. He was kind enough us to show the short cut.

At trail head. This Buddha statue is at the beginning of the trail. The proper road is shown by black arrow. Short cut is shown by green arrow. Foot pathway is shown by red arrow. Chief supervisor of the estate is here. He was kind enough us to show the short cut.

We started the journey by 8am. Important landmarks we crossed in this trail were Rath Ganga and Somarathna Ambalama, Wewaldola (වේවැල් දොල), Walkara Galgeya (වැල්කාර ගල්ගෙය), Bothiya Dola, Beruhinna (බෙරුහින්න). Then we reached Menik Ganga/Mahawali River by 3.30pm and had a bath till 4.30pm. We reached Rathnapura road by 7pm.

Starting the trail.

Starting the trail.

Entering to Peak Wilderness.

Entering to Peak Wilderness.

Crossing Rath ganga.

Crossing Rath ganga.

“Somarathna Ambalama”. This is situated in other side of Rath Ganga. Seems it has been renovated recently. This is the only Ambalama found in this trail.

“Somarathna Ambalama”. This is situated in other side of Rath Ganga. Seems it has been renovated recently. This is the only Ambalama found in this trail.

Crossing Wewal Dola.

Crossing Wewal Dola.

Morning sun rays.

Morning sun rays.

Some parts of the road is wide like a jeep track.

Some parts of the road is wide like a jeep track.

Road gets narrow.

Road gets narrow.

“Walkara Galge”. This small cave was used by people who came to cut creepers / වැල්  in the forest. That’s why it is called “Walkara Galge”.

“Walkara Galge”. This small cave was used by people who came to cut creepers / වැල් in the forest. That’s why it is called “Walkara Galge”.

Beautiful foot Pathway.

Beautiful foot Pathway.

“Rama Kallu”

“Rama Kallu”

Wild Beauty.

Wild Beauty.

“Mana Patch. “

“Mana Patch. “

Crossing “Bothiya Dola”. Earlier there was an Ambalama here. Now you can’t even trace it. We had our lunch at Bothiya Dola.

Crossing “Bothiya Dola”. Earlier there was an Ambalama here. Now you can’t even trace it. We had our lunch at Bothiya Dola.

Foot pathway.

Foot pathway.

Crossing another small water stream.

Crossing another small water stream.

First glimpse of Holy peak is seen before Mahaweli River.

First glimpse of Holy peak is seen before Mahaweli River.

Menik River is an important place of this journey. Although people call it as Menik Ganga, it is actually Mahawali Ganga and “Geththampana”/Ushimale (what Tamils called it) (ඌෂිමලේ) in this trail. This is the significant water source will come across before last climb. We had a bath and rest there.

“Menik Ganga”/Mahawali River

“Menik Ganga”/Mahawali River

There is about 5m tall waterfall.

There is about 5m tall waterfall.

Swimming at Mahawali Ganga.

Swimming at Mahawali Ganga.

“Geththampana”

“Geththampana”

Calm and quite.

Calm and quite.

Last few hours of the day.

Last few hours of the day.

Passing “Geththampana”.

Passing “Geththampana”.

Reappearance of Sri Pada.

Reappearance of Sri Pada.

Zoomed view.

Zoomed view.

Getting dark.

Getting dark.

From Adam’s peak base up to Rathnapura road was a strenuous continuous climbing through bushes and after some extent lights of Rathnapura road and Udamaluwa (උඩමලුව) were visible. Foot pathway was clear and it was not that much difficult to climb in the dark as we had an overhead light. We came across Rathnapura-Palabathgala (පලාබද්දල) trail around 7pm.
(Entry point is in between Ehela Kanuwa-ඇහැළ කණුව and Ehela Kanuwa Boutique.)

Continuous ascend.

Continuous ascend.

Evening sky

Evening sky

Entering to Rathnapura-Palabathgala road.

Entering to Rathnapura-Palabathgala road.

View of Rathnapura road.

View of Rathnapura road.

Part of trail.  Black star shows trail head at Hapugasthanna.  Blue star shows Baby Rath Ganga we crossed. Black circle shows Rama Kallu/ Bandigala-in map. Red circle shows Rath Kanda (රත් කන්ද). Foot pathway went along the edges of Bandigala and Rath Kanda.

Part of trail. Black star shows trail head at Hapugasthanna. Blue star shows Baby Rath Ganga we crossed. Black circle shows Rama Kallu/ Bandigala-in map. Red circle shows Rath Kanda (රත් කන්ද). Foot pathway went along the edges of Bandigala and Rath Kanda.

We spent our night at Adiyamalathenna Ambalama (Without going to Maluwa). Early morning we climbed up and enjoyed the sun rise and participated for “Ude Thewawa” උදේ තේවාව. After worshipping sacred foot print we started to get down along Rathnapura road.

Just before sun rise. Giants of Hortain plains. From left to right- Thotupola mountain,  Agrabopath and Kirigalpoththa.

Just before sun rise. Giants of Hortain plains. From left to right- Thotupola mountain, Agrabopath and Kirigalpoththa.

Sun rise.

Sun rise.

Sun rise.

Sun rise.

Sun rise.

Sun rise.

Sun rise.

Sun rise.

Sri Pada Maluwa. Closed for Ude Thewawa. (Morning Service)

Sri Pada Maluwa. Closed for Ude Thewawa. (Morning Service)

Newly placed Bell

Newly placed Bell

Newly built oil lamp. දොළොස් මහේ පහන

Newly built oil lamp. දොළොස් මහේ පහන

Shadow peak.

Shadow peak.

Twin peaks of Bana Samanola (බැණ සමොනළ) and Kunudiya Parwathaya (කුණුදිය පර්වතය).

Twin peaks of Bana Samanola (බැණ සමොනළ) and Kunudiya Parwathaya (කුණුදිය පර්වතය).

Surrounding view.

Surrounding view.

Happy faces at the journey.

Happy faces at the journey.

Adiyamalathenna Ambalama.

Adiyamalathenna Ambalama.

Ehela Kanuwa.

Ehela Kanuwa.

He is showing where we entered Rathnapura road from Dehenakanda trail. Note a water pump house is situated just below the entry point.

He is showing where we entered Rathnapura road from Dehenakanda trail. Note a water pump house is situated just below the entry point.

Holy peak is covering the sun.

Holy peak is covering the sun.

Land marks of Rathnapura trail.  Black arrow-Haramitipana (හැරමිටිපාණ) , Red arrow-Gal Wangediya( ගල් වoගෙඩිය) Boutique, Green Arrow- Kuruwita trail, Blue arrow-Rathnapura trail.

Land marks of Rathnapura trail. Black arrow-Haramitipana (හැරමිටිපාණ) , Red arrow-Gal Wangediya( ගල් වoගෙඩිය) Boutique, Green Arrow- Kuruwita trail, Blue arrow-Rathnapura trail.

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View of Holy peak at Haramitipana

View of Holy peak at Haramitipana

After having breakfast at Galwangediya boutique (delicious compared to dinner at Adiyamalathenna) we continued our journey through Kuruwita-Erathna trail till we meet the entry point of Udamaliboda-Deraniyagala trail. Entry point of this foot pathway is very clear compared to Dehenakanda route. It is about 100m before Madahinna Ambalama (මැදහින්න අම්බලම). (If you miss the entry point).
We came out from Udamaliboda trail by 4hours.

Ruins of Galwangediya Ambalama.

Ruins of Galwangediya Ambalama.

Kunudiya Parwathaya.

Kunudiya Parwathaya.

“Geththampana”-Kuruwita road.

“Geththampana”-Kuruwita road.

Blue arrow-From Sri Pada, Black arrow towards Udamaliboda, Green arrow towards Kuruwita.

Blue arrow-From Sri Pada, Black arrow towards Udamaliboda, Green arrow towards Kuruwita.

Crossing Seethagangula (සීතගගුල) of Udamaliboda road. This is a branch of “Kalu Ganga” (කලුගග).

Crossing Seethagangula (සීතගගුල) of Udamaliboda road. This is a branch of “Kalu Ganga” (කලුගග).

Leaving Seethagangula.

Leaving Seethagangula.

Order.

Order.

Ali Dung.

Ali Dung.

Water streams are dried.

Water streams are dried.

Foot pathway.

Foot pathway.

Greenish

Greenish

Crossing a main stream.

Crossing a main stream.

Narrow escape

Narrow escape

Foot pathway.

Foot pathway.

Rituals.

Rituals.

Final crossing.

Final crossing.

Pandeniya River ( පන්දෙනිය ගග).

.Pandeniya River ( පන්දෙනිය ගග).

Leaving peak Wilderness.

Leaving peak Wilderness.

Second part of the trail.  Black star shows Bana Samanalakanda. Foot pathway goes along Bana Samanola valley. Red star shows Adam’s peak.

Second part of the trail. Black star shows Bana Samanalakanda. Foot pathway goes along Bana Samanola valley. Red star shows Adam’s peak.
Return pathway is along Kuruwita trail up to the black arrow. Then it is shown by black long arrow (just a rough pathway). Pathway goes along the edges of Heenpiduruthalawa (හීන් පිදුරුතලාව) mountain-in blue star.

Thanks for reading.

The Pilgrimage to Sri Pada via Kuruwita-Erathna route

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Year and Month February, 2014 (21st)
Number of Days Three Day Trip
Crew 3 (between 30-33 years of age)
Accommodation Village House
Transport Public Transport
Activities To worship Sri-Pada, Wildlife, Photography, Nature Sceneries
Weather Excellent – little rain for 10 mins
Route Colombo -> Kuruwita -> Erathna -> Adewikanda -> Idikatupana -> Haramitipana -> Summit -> Nallathanni -> Hatton -> Colombo
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Be lightweight as much as possible.
  • Bring back whatever you carry especially polythene.
  • Eat less drink more. Much better if little hot water can be taken.
  • Have a light weight rain coat.
  • Food you bring will be cold and not able to eat. Therefore up to Haramitipana, you will find good small boutiques that provide good food at reasonable rate.
  • Follow your rhythm of hiking. Neither so fast nor too slow.
  •  Leeches may be there at the beginning.
  • Energy drink may help you.
  • Do not leave the group. Always stick together.
  • It’s a religious place. Whatever your religion, keep your respect.
  • First aid items (Iodex, Panadol, Bandage…etc)
Related Resources Trail Guide: Kuruwita Erathna Trail to Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak)
Author nishandj
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

We are a group of 3 people decided to go and worship Sri-Pada via Kuruwita-Erathna road as we have already been there via Rathnapura-Palabaddala route and Hatton-Nallathanni route.

We started the journey from Petta CTB stand around 2PM on 21st Friday, 2014. There was a Rathnapura bus and we took it to go to Kuruwita. It was around 4.30 when we got down from kuruwita. Our aim was to go up to Erathna and stay there. However after getting down at Kuruwita, we were lucky to catch the last bus that goes up to Adewikanda which is the last point that public transport is available during Sri Pada season. We got meals for the night and bread for the following day morning. Around 5.10PM the bus started from Kuruwita to go up to Adewikanda. If we got down from Erathna, there are few kms that we have to walk or go by a taxi to get Adewikanda. Around 6.30PM we got down from Adewikanda and we stayed the night there. Our main objective was not to climb fast but to walk as normal and see the nature as well. That is why we didn’t start it at night.

 

Sun set seen from Adewikanda

Sun set seen from Adewikanda

The following day we visited Mahamevna Asapuwa for religious activities at Adewikanda and started the journey afterwards

Mahamevna Asapauwa - Adewikanda

Mahamevna Asapauwa – Adewikanda

Tunnels that goes to the hydro power station at Adawikanda

Tunnels that goes to the hydro power station at Adawikanda

Sunlight rays seen on the way

Sunlight rays seen on the way

The color makes the eyes to rest a while

The color makes the eyes to rest a while

Places where people worship on the way to summit

Places where people worship on the way to summit

We walked neither too slow nor too fast

We walked neither too slow nor too fast

We met this mother climbing down. See how healthy they are.

We met this mother climbing down. See how healthy they are.

Nepenthes distillatoria ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nepenthes_distillatoria )

Nepenthes distillatoria ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nepenthes_distillatoria )

Before warnagala resting place, there is a large rock bed with a water stream on the right side of the way (not more than 100m from the path) and it is very beautiful to see and also a good place to rest a little while.

Large rock bed and it’s time for a break

Large rock bed and it’s time for a break

Could hardly see the way back to Adewikanda

Could hardly see the way back to Adewikanda

Having breakfast

Having breakfast

We were visited by these beautiful butterflies

We were visited by these beautiful butterflies

Hardly you will find stairs like this before Haramitipana

Hardly you will find stairs like this before Haramitipana

It looks so much beautiful and the greenery is amazing

It looks so much beautiful and the greenery is amazing

The starting point of the Adewikanda hydro power plant

The starting point of the Adewikanda hydro power plant

When you climb via Kuruwita, you will find a price list like this that displays the cost for each item. We have never seen this on Hatton side and also the prices are very much reasonable and well organized.

When you climb via Kuruwita, you will find a price list like this that displays the cost for each item. We have never seen this on Hatton side and also the prices are very much reasonable and well organized.

At Warnagala, we saw so many beautiful things.

At Warnagala, we saw so many beautiful things.

There are 3 epigraphs at Warnagala but we didn’t know what it says

There are 3 epigraphs at Warnagala but we didn’t know what it says

You will see many sceneries like this when you come to Warnagala resting point.

You will see many sceneries like this when you come to Warnagala resting point.

A lizard who wants to hide her eggs

A lizard who wants to hide her eggs

After lunch, he was trying to have a nap.

After lunch, he was trying to have a nap.

Passing warnagala resting place, it’s filled with beautiful sceneries like this

Passing warnagala resting place, it’s filled with beautiful sceneries like this

Thick forest is having millions of these

Thick forest is having millions of these

Walking towards “Sitha Gangula”

Walking towards “Sitha Gangula”

On the way, you will find many water streams like this.

On the way, you will find many water streams like this.

There is no climb in some places where you will have to walk as usual.

There is no climb in some places where you will have to walk as usual.

We reached “sitha gangula” around 3PM.

We reached “sitha gangula” around 3PM.

A tribute for god who protect us during the journey – at “Sitha Gangula”

A tribute for god who protect us during the journey – at “Sitha Gangula”

Around 5.15PM, they switched on the lights. But its better you bring a torch.

Around 5.15PM, they switched on the lights. But its better you bring a torch.

You will see this notice at “Haramitipana” where Palabaddala route and Kuruwita route join together.

You will see this notice at “Haramitipana” where Palabaddala route and Kuruwita route join together.

After “Haramitipana”, you will find another 2 boutiques and this is the one before last.

After “Haramitipana”, you will find another 2 boutiques and this is the one before last.

The new glim that has fixed recently but it’s not allowed to light it because it’s made from stone and it’s already cracked due to heat. So we went for the old glim thinking “Old is Gold”

The new glim that has fixed recently but it’s not allowed to light it because it’s made from stone and it’s already cracked due to heat. So we went for the old glim thinking “Old is Gold”

We didn’t remember how many times we visited.

We didn’t remember how many times we visited.

We were planning to get down via Hatton route but there was a massive crowed who had blocked the way down. Therefore we decided to climb down via the Rathnapura route till we get the cross road that links both Rathnapura and Hatton routes together. It was a good idea and we could reach to “Idikatupana” without any problem.

It was so crowded at Hatton route – “Sitha Gangula”

It was so crowded at Hatton route – “Sitha Gangula”

Beauty of the sun was seen on the way back

Beauty of the sun was seen on the way back

Sunlight comes through the trees created a picture

Sunlight comes through the trees created a picture

“Saama chaithya”

“Saama chaithya”

At Gangulethenna we had breakfast and around 11 AM we could reach to Nallathanniya where we got a bus to Hatton.
We saw lots of people are not aware of how valuable the nature is and polythene is everywhere. It’s less on Kuruwita route because the amount that tackles that way is less compared to Hatton route. Another important fact we noticed is that, there are certain procedure followed by the owners of the boutiques on Erathna route such as they don’t sell cigarettes and having price list so that people can see the prices of each item they sell.
We had walked 24kms in 28 hours. If it is the kuruwita trail, it’s much better not to hurry because it makes us tired soon as well as we won’t be able to see the nature and surrounding. Finally we want to thank all Lakdasun members and especially the trail details published. (http://www.lakdasun.org/trails/trail-18-kuruwita-erathna-trail-to-adams-peak-sripada.htm). It was a great journey at last and having long lasting memories. You may see the video here too. (www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkVOP3Iz1_U& ). Thank you.

හරෝ හරා !!! – Part 1

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Year and Month August, 2014 (July 31, August 1, 2,3,4)
Number of Days Day 1,2 of Five Day Trip (View Day 3,4,5 Report)
Crew 5 (26 – 42 years of age)  namely; Bhanu, Senaka, Darshana, Aravinda, Me
Accommodation
  • Day 1 : at Wild Life officer’s Quarters Kumana National Park
  • Day 2 : මඩමේතොට (Kuda Kebiliththa Devalaya)
  • Day 3 : Navaladi 3 wells (Middle of Yala Block 2)
  • Day 4 : Bank of Manik Ganga near Warahana Bridge
Transport Own transport and Endless walk
Activities
  • Walking through the Kumana NP, Yala Block 1,2,3
  • Meet Hindu’s and understand their rituals
  • Study their culture & experience this extreme pooja
  • Study the diversity of both Kumana &  Yala national parks
  • Photography
  • Measure our fitness
Weather
  • Extremely Dry
  • Little rain on 4th  night
  • Usually Pada Yathra season is Extremely  dry
Route
  • Colombo to Katharagama via Rathnapura, Thanamalwila, Thissa
  • Then  Okanda via Buththala, Monaragala, Pothuwil
  • Okanda Dewalaya -> Kumana NP -> Yala NP Block 2 -> Yala NP Block 1 -> Katagamuwa -> Kochchipothana -> Katharagama Dewalaya
  • Katharagama  to Colombo via Hambanthota, Sooriyawewa, Embilipitiya, Rathnapura
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • This is the only season that you get a chance to walk across these national parks.
  • This was purely not for fun, it’s a pooja. Hence if you are planning to do this please adhere to their rituals whether you believe it or not. (Don’t make another Kebiliththa)
  • Walking distance is more than 80km. It might vary on the shortcuts you take.
  • Originally Starts from Jaffna
  • At least you need 4 days to complete this track. Otherwise it will be difficult. Usually Hindu’s take 6, 7 days for this. They are not in a hurry like us.
  • You need to be perfectly prepared for camping, Food, medicine, etc.
  • SL Army, Medical staff from Uhana hospital did a remarkable job.
  • Kumana to Madamethota – every 5Km they had a water point with 2 soldiers
  • Beyond Kumbukkan Oya to Katagamuwa Exit water points at every 2.5/3Km with 2 solders
  • You cannot sleep where ever you need. There are dedicated places to sleep which are under the security of SL Army.  Namely Bagure Kalapuwa, Madamethota, Bahirawa 3 wells, Warahana, etc. End of each day      you have to reach to one of these places, if you cannot make it Army tractors take you to those places. This happened for some Elders.
  • At those sites SLArmy conducts temporary shops where you can buy all necessary items like Water bottles, Soft drinks, tea, roti, Koththu , Toothbrush, etc . Even vegetables like Cucumber, Watakolu :D
  • Really better if you can start on the very first day like we did. Otherwise you will have to experience the dirt.
  • Since we started on the very first day we were not sure about the temporary shops. So we carried food for all 4 days, which made our backpacks heavy.
  • Dates, Samaposha, cheese would be best and easiest food items to carry.
  • Jeevani is essential while walking on extreme dry conditions
  • Medicine for Water Blisters (දිය පට්ටා) : කහ කුඩු ස්වල්පයක් තේ හැන්දකට ගෙන එයට පොල් තෙල් ස්වල්පයක් එක් කර මදක් රත් කර  ගෙන දිය පට්ටය මත හොඳින් තවරන්න. දිය පට්ටය ක්‍රමයෙන් වියලී යයි. (Thanks Nimal Ayya for sharing this, I worked very well for us)
  • Photo Credit: A considerable number of good photos from Aravinda and Darshana, credit should go to them.
Related Resource
Special Thanks
  • Neranjana (NG) for kind support,   Medicine, sharing the experience, hospitality at your home, encouraging words
  • Ashan, Priyanjan, Mithila, NG and other Lakdasun members who contributed for the forum
  • Nimal Ayya And his group(From Maharagama) who helped us a lot in different ways like First aids, Cooking for our group, etc.
Author Dilhan Jayakody
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

History behind this holy Hindu ritual (Taken from different sources)
සිංහල ජනතාව අතර “කතරගම දෙවියන්” යන නමින් ද හින්දු ජනතාව අතර “මුරුගන්”, “ස්කන්ධ” යන නමින් ප්රචලිත කතරගම දෙවියන් පිළිබඳ ජනප්රවාද රාශියක් තිබේ. කතරගම දෙවියන්ගේ උපත පිළිබඳව විවිධ මතිමතාන්තර තිබේ. ඉන් එක් මතයක් වන්නේ ඊශ්වර හෙවත් ශිවගේත් පාර්වතියගේත් පුතකු ලෙස ස්කන්ධ කුමරු උපත ලද බවයි.

කතරගම දෙවිඳු මෙරටට වඩින්නේ තනිව නොවේ. ඔහු සමග තම බිරිඳ වන තෙව්වානි අම්මාද මෙරටට පැමිණේ. ඒ බුදු බව පතා චාරිකා කරන ස්කන්ධ කුමරු සමග එකසේ දුක සැප බෙදා ගැනීමටය.

හේනක් කරමින් දිවි ගෙවන ස්කන්ධ කුමරු දිනක් වල්ලි අම්මා දැක ඇය සමග ආලයෙන් බැඳෙයි. ඇයව රැක බලා ගන්නා ඇගේ සහෝදරයන්ගෙන් බලෙන් මෙන් රැගෙන එන වල්ලි අම්මා සමග ස්කන්ධ කුමරු වෙනම දිවි ගෙවයි.

දිනක් තෙව්වානි අම්මා සමග දිය නාමින් සිටින ස්කන්ධ කුමරු වල්ලි අම්මා ඒ දෙසට එනු දකී. ගමෙන් පිට ගිය මොහොතක තමන්ට මැණිකක් ලැබුනු බව තෙව්වානි අම්මාට පවසන ස්කන්ධ කුමරු එය පෙන්වන්නැයි කියූ විට වල්ලි අම්මාව පෙන්වයි. අනෙක් මිනිසුන් වෛර කරද්දි අපි ඔවුන්ට ආදර්ශයක් වෙමුයි පවසන තෙව්වානි අම්මා වල්ලි අම්මා සමග එක්ව විසීමට කැමති වෙයි.

වල්ලි අම්මා මුණ ගැසීමට පෙර අතු පැලක්වත් නොමැතිව ජීවත් වන කල මහ වරුසාවකට තෙමෙමින් සිටියදී වනයේදි මුණ ගැසෙන දෙමළ පිරිසකගෙන් ස්කන්ධ කුමරු – තෙව්වානි අම්මා යුවල අතු පැලක් සාදා ගැනීමට උදව් ඉල්ලයි. උදව් දීම ප්රතික්ෂේප කරන ඔවුනට ස්කන්ධ කුමරු පලි ගසන්නේ කවදා හෝ තොප මා වෙත උදව් ඉල්ලා පැමිණිය යුත්තේද අව්වේ වේලෙමින් වැස්සේ තෙමෙමින් අනේකවිධ දුෂ්කරතා විඳිමින් බව කියමිනි.

ඉන් අනතුරුව සිංහල මිනිසෙකු ඔවුනට උපකාර කර අතු පැලක් සාදා දී තිබේ. ඒ නිසා සිංහල මිනිසුන්ට ඕනෑම මොහොතක තමා වෙත පැමිණ ආශිර්වාද ලබාගැනීමට අවසර ලබා දී තිබේ.

මෙය පාද යාත්රාව ඇරඹීම පිළිබඳ එක් සුප්රසිද්ධ ජන කතාවක් පමණි. මෙවැනි ජන කතා, දේව කතා බොහොමයක් පාද යාත්රාව හා බැඳී පවතී. මේ කුමන ජනකතා ජනප්රවාද තිබුනත් පාද යාත්රාවේ යෙදෙන බැතිමතුන් ඉල්ලන්නේත් අදහන්නේත් ප්රාර්ථනා කරන්නේත් එකම දෙයකි.
එනම්;

උතුම් වූ දෙවිදුනි, අපගේ පව් කමා කර අපට පිහිට වනු මැනවි. හරෝ හරා!!!

Preparation
We were planning this great journey from more than 10 months ago, reading different articles, gathering information, Calling to Kumana NP and inquiring about the staring dates, weather, etc.

I built up a conversation with one of the Park officers at Kumana NP called Mr. Amarasinghe. After several discussions he promised me to inform the starting date in advance. It is not something which is decided by the Wild life department. It’s decided by the Uhana divisional secretariat. Usually it starts 3 weeks prior to the Katharagama Maha perahera which happens on the July Poya day. So we were hoping to start this journey towards early July; but unfortunately for this year it was postponed to August. Most of the Hindu’s were not aware about this and they have already started the journey from Jaffna.

Towards mid July I got a call from Mr. Amarasinghe and he told me that it will start on 1st of August. So it was very happy news for all of us and we were counting fingers and dreaming about this great opportunity. Even at that time a lot of hindu’s have arrived at Okanda devalaya. As they got to know that it will take another 2 weeks to open the gates; some of them have decided to walk through Siyabalanduwa, Monaragala, Buththala and reach Katharagama. But some of them stayed at Okanda devalaya until the gate was open.
Since we had only two weeks to prepare; we had to speed up. More concentration was put to decide the food and medicine which needs to be carried as we were not sure about the availability of food throughout the journey. We bought food for all 5 days. We took only 3 sets of cloths with a towel and a hat. 2 of them for the walk and 1 was a white suit to be worn to the devalaya on last day.

Finally the day arrived.

Day 1
All 5 of us got together at our office and left Colombo at 12.30PM in one of our member’s jeep(Bhanu’s). With a single stop at Rathnapura we reached Katharagama by 5.30 PM. We parked our jeep at one of our office mates’ relation’s place at Katharagama . We kept the additional white suit in the jeep and brought all other stuff and equally shared among us. One person (Senaka) was dedicated to carry the tent and all other stuff shared among the others. For each person it was more than 15kg in their back packs including 2 liters of water for each person. From there to Kumana entrance we had arranged a known safari jeep. We put all our bags to that and left from Katharagama around 6.30PM. For dinner we stopped at Monaragala around 9.00PM and by 11.00PM we reached Kumana safely. When we reached there, there were thousands of Hindu’s at Okanda devalaya. We were shocked by seeing that much of a crowd for the starting date. Then we met Mr. Amarasinghe and he had arranged accommodation for us at his quarters.
The jeep was sent back and we went to sleep by dreaming about the big day ahead.

Day 2
We all got up at 4.30am and were ready by 5.00am. We went to the Okanda devalaya to get blessings before starting this endless journey. We all participated for the morning rituals at the dewalaya. It was a busy place at that time. All were packing their stuff and getting ready for the journey. After the pooja we came back to the quarters to get the back packs. By the time we came to the entrance it was officially opened and a massive crowd was going through the gate. All media persons, Red Cross, representatives from Uhana hospital with an ambulance for emergency were there. Despite all these, the SL army was doing a great job. They got the head count of each group and made an entry on their books and had arranged a Kiribath Dansela also at the entrance.

ඔකඳ දේවාලය was busy in the morning

ඔකඳ දේවාලය was busy in the morning

All set and waiting for gates to be opened

All set and waiting for gates to be opened

Kumana early morning

Ready to go

Ready to go

Devotees with their belongings

Devotees with their belongings

Massive flow

Massive flow

We also joined the massive flow and started this great journey by 6.00am. After sometime we realized that hindu’s are little slower than us. Later we got know that most of them will stop at Bagure Kalapuwa for the first night, where as our target was මඩමේතොට for the first night. So we were passing most of them and walked a little faster.
Secret behind හරෝ හරා
When we passed each person they used to say “හරෝ හරාහ්”. Then we also got used to say that. We realized that is not just a blessing, it also reduced the tiredness and energized us; I think it’s because you need to get a huge breath to say “හරෝ හරාහ්”. With that you will get more oxygen in to your blood. Hence we also used to say “හරෝ හරාහ්” all the time.
Our first landmark was giant hearth (යෝධ ලිප) and had the first break there for a few minutes. It was not difficult to walk as most parts of the road were covered by trees; and also the energy and the enthusiasm we had was high.

Approaching යෝධ ලිප

Approaching යෝධ ලිප

යෝධ ලිප

යෝධ ලිප

.

.

හරෝ හරා!!!

හරෝ හරා!!!

After about 2 hours of walk we reached the ‘බාගුරේ කලපුව’. We stopped there for some time to have snacks and water. After that we started the walk again. Almost all the villu’s are fully dried except the Kumana Villuwa. While we were walking we used to talk to other groups. Most of them were very friendly and some of them shared their food with us.

Crossing බාගුරේ ඔය

Crossing බාගුරේ ඔය

බාගුරේ පාලම

බාගුරේ පාලම

Starting again; dried බාගුරේ  කලපුව

Starting again; dried බාගුරේ කලපුව

Belief & Dedication

Belief & Dedication

Alone…

Alone…

.

.

Steady…

Steady…

He was alone and very friendly

He was alone and very friendly

We passed the Thummulla wild life bungalow (which is under construction) and walked steadily. Then we passed the Itikala Kalapuwa & Yakala kalapuwa. All of them were fully dried. Walk was not easy under the burning sun and on the heated sandy track.

Drought at its worst

Drought at its worst

It’s their territory

It’s their territory

Harsh reality

Harsh reality

කතරක තනි වී...

කතරක තනි වී…

Eastern sea over Yakala Kalapuwa

Eastern sea over Yakala Kalapuwa

Taking short cuts through dried villus

Taking short cuts through dried villus

When we reached Kumana villuwa we were a bit tired. Kumana Villuwa was full of life, not like the other parts of the park. Lots of birds were seen, and an elephant was enjoying himself in the water. Recently WLD has built an observation tower right in front of the Kumana Villuwa. We stayed there for about an hour to rest and to enjoy the nature. The wind came through the villuwa was heavenly for us. At a distance we could see the old Kumana village.

Crocs…

Crocs…

Over Kumana Lagoon

Over Kumana Lagoon

With full of life

With full of life

Wow…

Wow…

Remainder of old Kumana Village

Remainder of old Kumana Village

Ready to land…

Ready to land…

After enjoying the beauty we started the last stretch for the day. After about an hour of walk we entered to an area which was full of giant Kumbuk trees. That signed us that we are closer to the Kumbukkan Oya. Finally we reached මඩමේතොට by 1.00pm. By that time only a very few(4,5) groups have reached there. Our first task was to setup the tent on the bank of Kumbukkan oya. We then had some biscuits with cheese for the lunch. That day river mouth was closed and water level was very high at මඩමේතොට. Usually pilgrims cross the river from this place. But with the water lever it was really difficult for the pilgrims. However it was really good for an awesome bath. After some time we all jumped in to the river and enjoyed the water which was enough for a lifetime. We were in the river for more than an hour and then came back to the tent and had some sleep. By the evening, the crowd was increased and there were around 300 people who reached මඩමේතොට. Towards the late evening SL Army collected all the people those who were in between the බාගුරේ කලපුව and මඩමේතොට and taken all of them to මඩමේතොට. Nobody was allowed to stay in between.

Devotees at මඩමේතොට

Devotees at මඩමේතොට

River mouth was closed

River mouth was closed

Our Tent

Our Tent

GOD

GOD

.

.

Swaami from Kochchikade, This is his 37th journey

Swaami from Kochchikade, This is his 37th journey

After having some sleep we discussed with SL Army about the difficulty of crossing the river from here and then we all decided to find a better place. With them we went towards ‘හෙරලියගස් ආර’ to see the water level. It was the perfect place to cross the river.

Looking for a better place to cross Kumbukkanan oya, near හෙරලියගස් ආර

Looking for a better place to cross Kumbukkanan oya, near හෙරලියගස් ආර

There were lots of these

There were lots of these

At Madamethota

At Madamethota

Joy & Happiness

Joy & Happiness

In the evening there was a special Pooja at Kuda Kebiliththa devalaya and we also participated. There was another four sinhala groups among the pilgrims. One group was from Maharagama (Nimal Ayya’s group) and they became very friendly with us. For the dinner we didn’t have to cook as they cooked for us as well. They have studied a lot about “Katharagam Deviyo” and related folk stories and they shared those interesting information with us.
And we met another Tamil family who were coming from Jaffna with their school age children. According to them it takes three months for the entire journey. One of the kids has written all the Kovils they worshiped from Jaffna in an exercise book. At that time there were about 87 Kovil names in that book. It was really interesting to study their lives and believes.

Until 11.00pm we didn’t go to the sleep. We all enjoyed the various types of sounds of animals, discussed a lot of things about the history of Pada Yathra, etc. which was really a nice experience. After that we went to sleep.
Since this is a lengthy report and exceeded the limitation of images, I decided to break this in to 2 sections.

Next report will start from Day 3 onward.


හරෝ හරා !!! – Part 2

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Year and Month August, 2014 (July 31, August 1, 2,3,4)
Number of Days Day 3,4,5 of Five Day Trip (View Day 1,2 Report)
Crew 5 (26 – 42 years of age)  namely; Bhanu, Senaka, Darshana, Aravinda, Me
Accommodation
  • Day 1 : at Wild Life officer’s Quarters Kumana National Park
  • Day 2 : මඩමේතොට (Kuda Kebiliththa Devalaya)
  • Day 3 : Navaladi 3 wells (Middle of Yala Block 2)
  • Day 4 : Bank of Manik Ganga near Warahana Bridge
Transport Own transport and Endless walk
Activities
  • Walking through the Kumana NP, Yala Block 1,2,3
  • Meet Hindu’s and understand their rituals
  • Study their culture & experience this extreme pooja
  • Study the diversity of both Kumana &  Yala national parks
  • Photography
  • Measure our fitness
Weather
  • Extremely Dry
  • Little rain on 4th  night
  • Usually Pada Yathra season is Extremely  dry
Route
  • Colombo to Katharagama via Rathnapura, Thanamalwila, Thissa
  • Then  Okanda via Buththala, Monaragala, Pothuwil
  • Okanda Dewalaya -> Kumana NP -> Yala NP Block 2 -> Yala NP Block 1 -> Katagamuwa -> Kochchipothana -> Katharagama Dewalaya
  • Katharagama  to Colombo via Hambanthota, Sooriyawewa, Embilipitiya, Rathnapura
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • This is the only season that you get a chance to walk across these national parks.
  • This was purely not for fun, it’s a pooja. Hence if you are planning to do this please adhere to their rituals whether you believe it or not. (Don’t make another Kebiliththa)
  • Walking distance is more than 80km. It might vary on the shortcuts you take.
  • Originally Starts from Jaffna
  • At least you need 4 days to complete this track. Otherwise it will be difficult. Usually Hindu’s take 6, 7 days for this. They are not in a hurry like us.
  • You need to be perfectly prepared for camping, Food, medicine, etc.
  • SL Army, Medical staff from Uhana hospital did a remarkable job.
  • Kumana to Madamethota – every 5Km they had a water point with 2 soldiers
  • Beyond Kumbukkan Oya to Katagamuwa Exit water points at every 2.5/3Km with 2 solders
  • You cannot sleep where ever you need. There are dedicated places to sleep which are under the security of SL Army.  Namely Bagure Kalapuwa, Madamethota, Bahirawa 3 wells, Warahana, etc. End of each day      you have to reach to one of these places, if you cannot make it Army tractors take you to those places. This happened for some Elders.
  • At those sites SLArmy conducts temporary shops where you can buy all necessary items like Water bottles, Soft drinks, tea, roti, Koththu , Toothbrush, etc . Even vegetables like Cucumber, Watakolu :D
  • Really better if you can start on the very first day like we did. Otherwise you will have to experience the dirt.
  • Since we started on the very first day we were not sure about the temporary shops. So we carried food for all 4 days, which made our backpacks heavy.
  • Dates, Samaposha, cheese would be best and easiest food items to carry.
  • Jeevani is essential while walking on extreme dry conditions
  • Medicine for Water Blisters (දිය පට්ටා) : කහ කුඩු ස්වල්පයක් තේ හැන්දකට ගෙන එයට පොල් තෙල් ස්වල්පයක් එක් කර මදක් රත් කර  ගෙන දිය පට්ටය මත හොඳින් තවරන්න. දිය පට්ටය ක්‍රමයෙන් වියලී යයි. (Thanks Nimal Ayya for sharing this, I worked very well for us)
  • Photo Credit: A considerable number of good photos from Aravinda and Darshana, credit should go to them.
Related Resource
Special Thanks
  • Neranjana (NG) for kind support,   Medicine, sharing the experience, hospitality at your home, encouraging words
  • Ashan, Priyanjan, Mithila, NG and other Lakdasun members who contributed for the forum
  • Nimal Ayya And his group(From Maharagama) who helped us a lot in different ways like First aids, Cooking for our group, etc.
Author Dilhan Jayakody
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

This is a continuation of  - හරෝ හරා !!! – Part 1

We spent the first night at Kumana wild life quarters, and next day early morning we stared this remarkable journey. By the evening we reached to Madamethota and stayed there for the 2nd night.

Here the story starts from Madamethota on 3rd day morning.

Day 3
Following day we all got up early in the morning and had a cool dip in Kumbukkan oya and then packed our stuff to go. We started the journey as early as possible so that it would definitely help to avoid the burning heat. For the day three, our target was Navaladi hot water wells. Very first group crossed the river at Madamethota and thereafter no one was allowed crossing from there due to high water levels. Hence we had to go further up towards ‘Heraliyagas Ara’ camp site and from there we crossed the river. By 6.15am we crossed the Kumbukkan oya and entered to Block II.

Water was at chest level. This was how the first and the only group crossed from මඩමේතොට

Water was at chest level. This was how the first and the only group crossed from මඩමේතොට

Here it was not difficult & dangerous at all - near හෙරලියගස් ආර

Here it was not difficult & dangerous at all – near හෙරලියගස් ආර

Yes It is…

Yes It is…

Sandy track was not supportive at all

Sandy track was not supportive at all

Block II is the most difficult part of the walk. Other than the shade of Kumbuk trees at the bank of Kumbukkan oya the entire stretch is through thorny bushes and endless lagoons. The deep sandy stretches make the journey more difficult.
After about 30 minutes of walk we stopped for breakfast. We had dates and nutrition bars as the breakfast and it was really energizing. Initially we walked through scrubs and then entered to a vast open area. By 9.00am we reached ‘Ihala Gajabawa’ and it was fully dried. Couple of month back I came to this place by jeeps while going to Kumbukkan oya from Manik ganga and had to stop the journey from here due to high water level in the lagoon. It clearly showed the harshness of drought. There we could see few elephants at a distance and we were a bit nervous and tried to avoid them as much as possible.

Drought at its worst

Drought at its worst

Through Thorny Bushes

Through Thorny Bushes

Harsh reality of extreme drought

Harsh reality of extreme drought

Do you think that you can hide from us?

Do you think that you can hide from us?

.

.

Sandy track was really difficult

Sandy track was really difficult

By 10.00am sun rose and heat was so high that we could even feel the rising heat from the ground. Again we entered to a scrubby forest. But it was not enough to overcome the heat. Every 2-3km there was a water point run by SL Army. With the burning sun it was really difficult for us to survive. Jeewani was the only saver. With several stops we came to the Uda Poththna Lagoon. It’s a vast open area where there is no single tree for more than a kilo meter. With the burning sun we were all helpless. The only help was “Harohh Haraaahhhh”. It gave the energy for all of us. Occasionally we could see few foxes, deer and wild boars. But they never cared about us.

ඇති වැඩකුත් නෑ, හෙමින් ගමනකුත් නෑ

ඇති වැඩකුත් නෑ, හෙමින් ගමනකුත් නෑ

Luckily there wasn't a monkey to steal my hat

Luckily there wasn’t a monkey to steal my hat

With enjoying all these things by 1.00pm we were able to reach Navaladi 3 hot water wells. When we reached there, there were few other groups who had come before us. SL army had opened 3 shops to buy necessary items and food. I was in shock after looking at the items in those shops. Actually anything and everything was there. Vegetables, Toothpaste & brushes, soft drinks, Koththu, Hoppers, etc

It’s their land

It’s their land

Place of GOD

Place of GOD

Navaladi Hot water wells, Our tent is at the corner

Navaladi Hot water wells, Our tent is at the corner

Aravinda is busy with his camera

Aravinda is busy with his camera

Outcome

Outcome

End of another day at Yala

End of another day at Yala

We settled down there and setup the tent on the ground near to wells. With the tiredness nobody wanted to cook and we had roti from Army shop for the lunch. Then we all went to sleep for several hours. By the time we got up there were a lot of groups who had come there for the second night. Then we had a bath from those wells. But the quality of water was not that good – especially to drink. With the bath and long sleep tiredness was sorted out but there were signs of water blisters after two days of continues walk.
SL Army was very friendly with pilgrims and was very supportive. After dinner we had a long chat with solders and they shared their wild life experience with us. The previous day when they were coming to Navaladi, one of their unicorn buffels were stuck in mud on Pahala Poththana lagoon. With the support of other vehicles they have tried to pull it out but were not successful. Finally they abandoned the vehicle there for that night and kept 2 solders to protect that. Unfortunately during the night there were several elephants that came there and attacked the buffel. Finally those 2 soldiers had to run for their lives.
That night the sky was fully clear with a lot of stars. That night was one of the most beautiful nights we ever had. Simply it was like “Sleeping under the stars”. It was the end of another memorable day.

Day 4
We got up by 5.00am and had a wash from one of the wells. By that time the boutique was opened and we had tea and roti for breakfast. By 5.30am we were ready to go. With water blisters we decided to wear slippers. Target was Warahana bridge and this is the longest stretch for all 4 days.
After 10, 15 minutes of walk we came to the Pahala poththana lagoon. And we could see the unicorn buffel which was stuck in mud. Pahala poththana lagoon is a vast area and it was a truly endless walk. There was a very little water on the lagoon. Since we had breakfast before starting the journey we could steadily walk and get the advantage of walking before sun rise.

With the back drop of Dematagala

With the back drop of Dematagala

Stuck in mud, Pahala poththana lagoon

Stuck in mud, Pahala poththana lagoon

Aravinda(one of our members) was a little slow as he wanted to do some photography while walking. So he asked us to move forward as per the plan and he joined the crowds who came behind.
After sometime of walking we could witness sad scenery. It was a dead body of an elephant on a small villu. With the drought පොත්තන ආර had become a small water stream and it was not difficult to cross.

Dead 

Dead 

Crossing Pahala Poththana

Crossing Pahala Poththana

Dedication

Dedication

Every 2-3km there was a water point

Every 2-3km there was a water point

Then we entered to a small patch of forest and it was a great relief for us. We rested there and started walking again. Next difficult section was the යාල වෙල. The area was fully dried and occasionally we could see මලිත්තන් trees and no other trees were there. There were several lagoons in between and I can’t remember all the names.

Occasionally we could see මලිත්තන් trees

Occasionally we could see මලිත්තන් trees

Classic

Classic

In some lagoons there were gangs of wild buffalos and we have been advised not to get close to them as they are the most dangerous among other animals. They are the most probable to attach if you are alone. Since we walked as a group we never had that fear but they continuously were looking at us. According to the experienced trackers, if you walk as a group they cannot target one. (We never know the validity of that). However they never came towards us. While we were passing the යාල වෙල we could clearly see the eastern sea to the left.

Looking at us

Looking at us

Sand dunes of eastern sea

Sand dunes of eastern sea

Endless walk

Endless walk

Another open stretch….

Another open stretch….

During the drought these type of places create luck for predators

During the drought these type of places create luck for predators

Looking for a pray

Looking for a pray

Passing 50km

Passing 50km

Just missed…

Just missed…

We all were hoping that we could reach Mankik gannga soon. And we knew that we had to cross කටුපිල ආර before that. But still we never met කටුපිල ආර. With the previous experience in block II, I remembered පරණ තොටුපොල is 15, 20 minutes walking distance from කටුපිල ආර. Finally we met that and Army has made a temporary crossing over that. Not because that it was deep, but due to the possibility of crocodiles attacks. We had a considerable time to rest at කටුපිල ආර water point. Then we could see the giant kumbuk trees and it was the sign of Manik ganga.

Protecting her eggs

Protecting her eggs

They are very dangerous

They are very dangerous

Heat was not bearable at all

Heat was not bearable at all

He is alone

He is alone

කටුපිල ආර

කටුපිල ආර

Doing a remarkable job

Doing a remarkable job

Time was around 12.30 and we walked further 1-2 km on the bank of manik ganga passing පරණ තොටුපොල and there was a boutique and first aid point conducted by the Army. We thought of having a cool dip in Manik Ganga and have lunch there. By that time we all were very tired with the endless walk under the burning sun and heated sandy tracks. Then we all rested on Manik ganga for about 2 hours under the shelter of giant kumbuk trees. That gave us a great relief for all pains.

Then we had Roti for lunch. Since our target was Warahana we started our journey again by 3.00pm. This was the easiest section of this track. It’s because the path was parallel to Manik ganga and was well shaded with giant trees. But it is the most dangerous section as well because there could be high possibility of meeting bears & leopards. Army always advised to walk as a bunch and you definitely feel the dark and mysterious feeling when walk on that stretch. The other group (Nimal Ayya’s) also had experienced that. They have observed a bunch of dears slowly waking around Manik ganga and they stopped to video record that. While they were recording a dear might have seen them and ran away. Suddenly they saw a leopard running behind them. Actually he was targeting for a pray and had missed that. He showed that video to us.

What a shot… Thanks Aravinda

What a shot… Thanks Aravinda

We can see you dear…

We can see you dear…

However by 5.00pm we could reach Warahana and set up the tent on the bank of Manik ganga. By that time my legs severely painful and I was literally not walking but just dragging my legs. Even though there were lots of groups started with us 3 days before most of them were slow and only 7, 8 groups reached to Warahana on day 4.

Swami

Swami

Yes, he is a foreigner

Yes, he is a foreigner

For them it was a necessity

For them it was a necessity

But for Children it was fun

But for Children it was fun

Right timing

Right timing

Memorable night at bank of Manik Ganga

Memorable night at bank of Manik Ganga

Nimal Ayya and his group was next to us, we all got together and cooked dinner. They were very friendly and supportive. After having dinner they shared folk stories with us like the previous night. Then we went to the sleep.

Day 5
During the night was a little rainy. Early morning we got up and prepared a joint breakfast like we did for dinner. Then had a cool dip on Manik ganga. After taking a few photos we started the journey for the final destination. It was the last day and we all felt a little sad. By that time we all were adopted to the jungle life and it was really sad to see the end of this remarkable journey. First we crossed the Manik ganga through Warahana bridge and entered to the Yala block I & III. And walked parallel towards the upper stream of Manik ganga.

Bank of Manik Ganga, last day morning with Nimal Ayya’s group

Bank of Manik Ganga, last day morning with Nimal Ayya’s group

Last day morning…Sad to leave 

Last day morning…Sad to leave 

Sithulpawwa

Sithulpawwa

හරෝ හරා !!!

හරෝ හරා !!!

.

.

We walk along the jeep track in Yala block 1 & III and we met several safari jeeps which are coming from Katagamuwa side. Some of them were shocked by seeing us walking in the jungle with huge back packs in the early morning. We couldn’t see any animal in this day other than peacocks and birds. After about 2 hours of a walk we could reach Katagamuwa exit. That’s the end of Yala NP. Up to Katagamuwa in every 2-3 km there was a water point with SL Army soldiers. At Katagamuwa there was another check point run by SL Army and they keep the count of people who passed Katagamuwa. Even though there were thousands of people entered on very first day I was the 43rd person who passed Katagamuwa. Other groups were not in a hurry like us. As the Maha perahera was starting on 7th and they had 3 more days to come. At Katagamuwa we had an hour of rest, had tea and biscuits with cheese. Those who are going to Sithulpawwa usually stop at Katagamuwa. Even that time several busses were there, and they had thousands of questions for us. “ඇයි මහත්තයල මේක කරන්නෙ?, පූජාවක්ද, දවස් කීයක් තිස්සේ එනවද? බය හිතුනෙ නැද්ද?, etc…

Good bye YALA

Good bye YALA

At Katagamuwa

At Katagamuwa

Feeling very sad to say goodbye to yala, we continued our walk on gravel road through Katagamuwa sanctuary on Katharagama – Sithulpawwa road. Our next landmark is කොච්චිපොතාන දේවාලය. When we approached the කොච්චිපොතාන we could see the signs of civilization. කොච්චිපොතාන is another halting place for pilgrims. We stayed there for half an hour and had osu pan. They had ඔසු පැන් දන්සැල for all 365 days. After 3 days of walk now we have come to a civilized area. Then we entered to a tarred road and walked towards Katharagama. We were in the first set of people who passed the area for this පාද යාත්රා season. Hence villages, children had come to the road to visit us. And all of them greeted us by saying “Harohh Haraah”. They offered us water as well. Those who were too shy were hiding inside the houses and watched us. But we saw them. :D

කොච්චිපොතාන දේවාලය

කොච්චිපොතාන දේවාලය

Came to see us

Came to see us

We felt that we can see the light of end of the tunnel. After about one hour of walk we were able to reach the Katharagama Sacred city by 12.30pm. Katharagama was getting ready for the annual festival and perahera. We all were very happy and proud of us about successfully completing this remarkable journey and about our fitness. That is the end of an Endless journey. By that time 87km was recorded in our GPS reader.
Our initial plan was go to the place where we parked our jeep and have a bath and come for the evening poojawa to complete the journey. But everybody agreed to visit the devalaya and do the basic rituals for now and participate the evening poojawa by late evening. Then we washed our faces from Manik ganga and went to the Devalaya.

We made it…

We made it…

Nimal ayya and his group

Nimal ayya and his group

Finally at the Destination - Katharagama Devalaya

Finally at the Destination – Katharagama Devalaya

All set for annual festival

All set for annual festival

Then we had lunch at Katharagama town and came back to the place where we parked our jeep. The house owners warmly welcomed us. We had a bath there and we were offered an excellent tea party. Finally we finished all the stuff and came back to the devalaya for evening poojawa.
We offered a pooja and worshiped the Kiri Vehera and offered our gratitude to all the spirits and headed towards Colombo to complete the journey.

Place of GOD

Place of GOD

:)

:)

All set for annual festival

All set for annual festival

Kiri Vehera

Kiri Vehera

That the end of an ENDLESS JPOURNEY…… It was a life time experience for all of us. I hope when we think back about our lives in another 10-15 years the importance of this journey will be much more.
Thanks for reading this report. If you are planning to do the same and need any support feel free to contact me.

Laboring Up to the Sun-Deprived Lost World – Kohonawala…

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Year and Month 08-09 Mar, 2014
Number of Days 2
Crew Athula, Tony, Sheham and Me
Accommodation Kohonawala Praja Shalawa cum Temple
Transport By Car/On Foot
Activities Charity Work, Photography, Hiking etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Dehiwala->Kottawa->Kolonnawa->Avissawella->Badulla->Kahataruppa->Urumeethenna->Kohonawala and return on the same road.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • You can contact the Kohonawala Temple on 055-5653138 (Olaboduwe Dhammananda Thero).
  • You can check Ashan’s Report on Kohonawala here.
  • There are two roads to the village. (First: Via Madolsima and the other is via Kahataruppa)
  • Please contact the monk should you wanna contribute to the well-being of the villagers and offer any donations.
  • The terrain is difficult to tackle as it’s always either climbing up or down.
  • Leeches will be a problem especially when it rains. So protection will be required.
  • Be ready to cross the river if you go from Kahataruppa side. There’s no bridge and you have to wade through the Loggal Oya.
  • Avoid rainy season as it’ll be a nightmare with water making the paths muddy and extremely difficult to tackle.
  • Don’t drink water from the river coz the monk asked us not to saying it’s not good enough.
  • Please do something to help those villagers and the temple if you can.
  • Protect the environment and don’t leave any polythene or plastic behind.
  • The distance from Madolsima to Kohonawala according to the signpost is 9.6km but it’s 4.5-5km according to Ashan.
  • The account number of the temple is 116-2-001-4-0063593, BoC, Madolsima. (Please verify before donating with the monk.)
  • The directions to the village from Kahataruppa is as follows:

 

Take the Badulla-Passara Road and at 2km point turn to the left which is Hanwella Road. There’s also a sign of the Cullen Estate near the road name so you can’t miss it.

 

From there the Kahataruppa (which is also called Pela Bodhiya) is about 13.5km away. It’s a 4-way junction and take the right towards Hospital. (This road is carpeted and in very good condition)

 

Just passing the hospital is a bus stop with a left hand side road that runs to Urumeethenna about 3km away. (This road is concreted at places especially the first km or so. However not suitable for a low ground clearance vehicle.

 

We managed to do it in our Toyota Corolla Wagon nonetheless but it was thanks to expert driving of Sheham and Athula. Can’t recommend it). If you manage to go that far, the monk will arrange for you to leave your car at a house.

 

From Urumeethenna to Kohonawala Temple is about 5km and the Loggal Oya flows about 2.5-3km from the Urumeethenna village. (This road is in terrible condition. Would require a 4WD to tackle this.)

 

Crossing the river can be nightmarish if the water levels are high. So avoid it at all times. Tuk tuk will charge about Rs. 1000/- to go from Kahataruppa to the Loggal Oya which is very reasonable considering the status of the road.

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Ever since I read the article on “Kohonawala Village” on Mawbima paper, I was dreaming day and night to pay a visit. As you all know, Ashan beat me to it and it paved the way for a more comprehensive journey for us. My initial plan was to collect some money from the friends and give out exercise books and other stationery for the village kids but it had to be abandoned due to various issues. As a result, after a lot of deliberation, I decided to donate as many books as possible for the yet-to-be-open library at the Kohonawala Temple.

Having spoken to the Dhammananda Thero, who was the chief incumbent of the newly established Kohonawala Temple about one and half years ago, I got a list of the books that were required. Sheham was always willing to go and the two old fellas Uncle Tony and Grand Father Athula too joined in. As this was mainly a reconnaissance mission, I didn’t divulge the details to others. We four contributed and bought some books worth a few thousand rupees.

NG too wanted to join having heard from Ashan but there was no room for her unfortunately in the car. Despite that she too bought a lot of books and handed to us for the donation. Our plan was to leave on the 08th March and that’s exactly what we did.

The Story of Kohonawala:

—This is an isolated village completely surrounded by numerous mountains making it located in the bottom of a deep ravine. Badulla-Passara road seems to be running around this and a few other isolated villages. Namunukula-borne Loggal Oya flows between the border of Urumeethenna, the last village with main-line-supplied electricity, and Kohonawala before joining the mighty Mahaweli at Mahiyanganaya, making it further isolated.

The story behind the start of this village has many different variations. According to the folklore, they origins run far deep thousands of years backwards where the indigenous people of SL, the Veddhas, roamed this island at will. According to one old farmer, the leader of that Veddhas in the village was an elite archer. Once he won a contest of shooting an arrow through a golden ring thus getting the name “Ranpath Mudiyanselage” bestowed upon his clan. Surprisingly all the people in Kohonawala has that as their surname to-date. Everybody is called R.M. and their given name.

The second story is during the 1818 revolution, two people (sister and brother) ran away from the English hiding in this village. After some time there were kids born to them and the population grew larger since then. This too is a very possible one coz nearly everyone looks the same. They all have similar features and identical in many ways.

There are two routes to this stunningly beautiful village. One is from Kahataruppa about 15.5km away from Badulla Town and the other is from Madolsima about 41km from the Badulla town. The first one, Kahataruppa route is the sensible one as the travelling is relatively easier, especially when the Loggal Oya is in a calm and quiet mood.

The road from Kahataruppa is motorable up to Urumeethenna in a high ground clearance vehicle. From Urumeethenna it’s extremely difficult terrain but we saw a tuk tuk crawling right up to the river. The other one is from Madolsima close to the police station. There’s a sign board saying the Kohonawala Vidyala, 9.6km. This means a treacherous walk downhill to the base of the ravine (Loggal Oya Valley) where the Kohonawala village is located. (Note: According to Ashan who did this stretch some time ago, it’s about 4.5-5km in total. This 9.6km board apparently a wrong measurement)

The main income comes from the farming of paddy, pepper, vegetables and fruits. They are self-sufficient in many areas save for electricity and a proper road. Things like coconuts are hard to come by. Kohonawala School has classes up to grade 5 and above that means an 18+km up and down hike to Madolsima. Many kids don’t want to continue to do it for the next 6-8 years and leave their school life after grade 5.

There have been dramatic changes in the lifestyles of the villagers ever since Olaboduwe Dhammananda Thero arrived from Horana having seen the plight of these people. He had got ordained at the age of 16 and been a practical monk for the last 17 years. The people of the village had no idea what Dhamma means until he arrived. There were no religious rituals conducted let alone learning Dhamma.

We saw the undivided loyalty from many of the villagers to the temple and him. They treat him like their savior. Kohonawala doesn’t have a temple, and it’s temporary located at the Praja Shalawa and the monk had started building an image house and a temple from scratch with the help of various donors and villagers. Unfortunately, the going is at a snail’s speed but that hasn’t stopped the willpower of this courageous human being in a saffron robe.

He’s ordained 4 little boys and sent them for further studies to a Kalubowila Pirivena claiming that they need everything possible to improve the living conditions of the village after him. We found him to be very caring, helpful, courageous and cheerful person who has devoted his life for the well-being of these neglected people.

Anyhow, these were not without the typical obstacles that bar one’s path. He’d been repeatedly harassed by a very few people and even today, he’s living among threats and hardships. Among the many requests of the villagers, the main one is a bridge across the Loggal Oya and a better paved road to their village from Urumeethenna. Very long time ago, then divisional secretary had made a road but since his transfer from Lunugala (where Kohonawala belonged) to Passara things have taken a wrong path.

One of the interesting things about Kohonawala is that not only the people have names, but houses too bear some very thoughtfully given names such as: Bo Sevana, Thenne Gedara, Chamika Niwasa, etc.

If the powers-that-be can improve the road and build a bridge at least wide enough for a tuk-tuk and a Dimo Batta Lorry, it will help them sell their produce to the outside world easily making their lives more comfortable. We heard the farmers who grow paddy so far away from their homes (as far as 9-10km) and take them a whole day to bring a single sack of paddy to their homes. It means if they harvest 10 sackfuls of paddy, it will take them 10 days to bring them back to their homes unless they get laborers to do it paying Rs. 400/- a day.

So I bring these to you my friends who are willing to help others, and can get folks who have means to do so to get together and do something for these people in need.—

The Tour Highlights:

1. 10km of hike to Kohonawala Temple from Urumeethenna (up and down).

2. The village life of Kohonawala.

3. Treacherous 2km hike towards Madolsima with an elevation of about 450m.

4. Tasty yet unheard typical village foods.

 

Day 01

Our plan to leave Colombo at 1am got shattered when neither Tony nor I heard from Sheham. Both of our calls went unanswered and naturally we were worried coz he’d never before been late. Tony had even undressed and gone back to sleep when Sheham called around 2am.

I got a call from a relieved Tony and we finally left for Athula’s who was sound asleep amid all these jitters. Picking him we made good time and reached Beragala when the sun was creeping up above the eastern mountain tops. Buying a few egg rolls and snapping a few more pics of this wonderful dawn, we pushed towards Haputale. The whole valley to our right was being illuminated by the vivid rays of the morning sun and it really was breath taking.

Sheham had a headache so Atha took over the driving while he had a nap. Towards B’wela we were enveloped by the mist. Driving through the misty mountains we reached Badulla around 7.30am. We quickly bought loaves of bread for breakfast and hurriedly drove along Passara road till we came to Hanwella road, 2km away from Badulla. We called the monk who had been traveling overnight and reached Urumeethenna waiting for our arrival.

The Kahataruppa road is newly carpeted and in very good condition. Finally we reached the Pela Bodhiya at Kahataruppa where the Saturday fair was in full swing. It was a wonderful experience to go back in time and see a typical village fair. What is most extraordinary thing was there were mainly elderly people and kids. Grandparents still are coming to the fair with their grandchildren, that is the norm in our good old villages.

We bought some juicy looking nearly foot long bananas 12/- each. The shop owner had a change of heart when he figured we weren’t local, otherwise it’d have been only 10/-. However, in Colombo, it’d have easily cost double that price. Driving towards the hospital we reached a junction where there was a road branching out to the right. It looked nothing like the one we were on, just a normal gravel road with plenty of rocks and pit holes scattered throughout. When we asked if it was the road to Kohonawala, people started looking at us with “Are you crazy in your head?” written all over their faces. They all as in one declared that we can’t go to Kohonawala by car. “We’re not planning to go right up to the village in the car” I tried to pacify them, “only up to Urumeethenna” I further added.

They still looked aghast. “You can’t even go that far coz the road is terrible” they insisted. “Ok, we’ll do our best and go as far as possible” Sheham chimed in. We went downhill and the road was terrible but not terrible enough to turn us around. If it was anyone other than Sheham, he would have had a stroke then and there. After a bit the road was concrete paved and we began to relax but it lasted mere seconds than minutes as it was only a short length.

This is always the case in rural areas where they concrete very short lengths of the whole road but put up the politicians’ faces on boards claiming the credit. Those boards alone must be costing quite a lot of money and they could have put it to repair the road more. Typical stinking Sri Lankan politics at work. About a km down there was a Canter lorry parked and filling a huge water tank from a nearby source. The driver like all the others warned that we can’t go any further than a few hundred meters. He then asked if we knew the road. “We don’t and never been here before either” was all we could add. But Sheham and Atha pushed on and we were most of the time walking besides the car to reduce as much weight as possible and filling the mighty holes with rocks so that the car can go.

We met a kid who said the monk was waiting and we continued our agony. People were looking at us a group of clowns had come for the annual festival. I bet they’d never seen a car on that road. Finally after so much of maneuvering around we were at the Urumeethenna. Dhammananda thero was there with a few people to greet us and we were allowed to park in the shop. The shop owners served us with tea and allowed us to have breakfast before walking another 5km to the temple. While we were finishing the meal, there were 3 guys from Kohonawala, one of them a 10-year old kid named R. M. Samantha (remember they all have the same surname), to help us carry the stuff.

We had about 30+ books and some coconuts (very scarce in Kohonawala) along with some rations for the temple. Suddha and Asela took the stuff on to their shoulders while little Samantha carried the banana bag refusing all the way to have one. The walk was a sheer climb downhill and we were in no time soaked with sweat. The monk kept telling us about the village revealing plenty of secrets. Viyan Gala, the monumental rocky mountain was towering to the North East very much similar to the Lakegala in Meemure but not so majestic. The yet-to-be-built Kohonawala temple is technically located at the base of the Viyan Gala and the monk has plans to build a Stupa on the top as many people are trying to blast it in the hope of digging some treasures.

The reason the rock got its name Viyan Gala is the kings used to place those special huts on top. Destroying the mother nature and very important archeological sites for hunting treasures is the biggest epidemic in our country nowadays. We arrived at a Bo tree named Anpitiya Bo tree due to the famous religious ceremony of “An Adeema” done to pay homage for Lord Paththini. According to the monk and villagers, nobody is allowed to drink and drive through here. The vehicle will stop and won’t start until the driver is sober again. Passing that the road runs through sugar cane fields and the treacherous hike towards Madolsima was clearly visible. We could see the mango tree under which lies one of the mostly used Ambalama in the modern era.

For a typical villager, it takes about 2hrs to hike the 9km distance (bear in mind it’s 4.5-5km according to Ashan) with an elevation gain of about 600m. However the downhill journey takes only about an hour, half the time. Madolsima is the key town for these people, especially for kids who are studying above grade 5. They have to do this 5 days a week. Just imagine walking 18+km climbing up to 2000ft every day. My legs shudder just thinking about it. We finally got down to the base of the valley where Loggal Oya flows. She was very calm and not so deep owing to less rain this time. We saw signs of sand digging but they had put up a notice giving the permit holder’s name and number. Whether they stick to the rules, only the people know.

This is where they ask for a bridge to be built. The river is about 30ft wide but when in full flow will easily double that. If the authorities can build a bridge at least wide enough for a tuk tuk, it’ll be a turning point. Having crossed the river, we started ascending and reached the first house and stopped for some water. The house bore the typically designed front area with short mud walls around and mats laid out on top for people to sit. All the houses have got a solar panel each giving them a taste of what electricity really is. I’m not sure if they know how to maintain the panel and the battery. One of the donors had given a generator to the temple housed in the community hall temporarily. Most of the media and other visitors misunderstand when the monk ask for roofing sheets, cement and metal to build a temple as they think the community hall is the temple. Well, let me tell you it’s not and the officials have asked the monk to evacuate ASAP.

He can’t start a Sunday school or do Poya rituals as there are meetings held in the hall. So it’s a dire need and if he can get the temple finished, at least partially by Vesak, it’d be a great thing. This is a good opportunity for people celebrating Vesak in Colombo very lavishly to do something more worthwhile. All the people and organizations who are screaming for the well-being of Buddhism can start by helping these extremely remote temples. People in places like these really need a place to worship their religion and when they don’t get it it’s so much easy for those extremist groups to get in and manipulate them. There’s no point shouting religious conversions if they really do something for these people in the first place without waiting for those rogue cults to take advantage of their ignorance and helplessness. We were so impressed by the will power of Dhammananda thero as he was well off in his village temple at Horana but decided to defy the obstacles and go help those who in need.

Numerous times we asked Samantha to have a banana from the sack but he adamantly refused. The monk explained saying that people don’t eat outside their houses as there’s a female devil (Yakinni) that come to haunt them if they did. Not trusting their beliefs, the monk had gone out and had a pack of rice on a rock when he heard this blood curling howl of a woman. He said the pitch of the voice is so strong it can numb you can send you nuts. So he asked us no to eat anything till we got to the temple. Also we were asked not to drink water from the Oya as tendency is so great for us to get sick. There is another devil called Great Grandpa (Muththa). What he does is excrete on the floors of the houses. When there is human excretion on the floor, they say the Muththa has come. However ever since the temple started and they started playing Pirith over the loudspeakers, these ghost problems had reduced considerably.

We met a very old person who was introduced to us as the Secretary of Defense of Dhammananda thero as he stays in the temple protecting him. Coincidentally, he is the father of Suddha. Having sweat it out like never before we finally reached the community hall cum temple around 11am. Gosh what relief to be able to put down our baggage and rest our feet and backs properly. Asela immediately put a pot on the hearth boiling water for us to have a cuppa tea. The monk had arranged for a nearby house to boil some freshly dug 100% organic manioc with a unique Lunu Miris. The elderly man brought them immediately and set about serving us. You drink plain tea with sugar before meals and after a while have the meal, usually yams, and drink plain tea again without any sugar. It tastes grand, I can tell you folks.

The special Lunu Miris is made of 12 different varieties of chilies (Miris and Kochchi). You gotta see it with your own eyes guys. The dark mud green very thick broth like Lunu Miris is the hottest thing I’ve had to date and might well be for my whole life. It tastes so delicious and manioc disappeared in seconds. Unlike normal chilly flavor your tongue doesn’t get hot by this but the inner walls of your mouth. You just need a pinch of that to demolish a plate of any kind of yam. We devoured on the meal and the sugar-free plain tea which followed afterwards was heavenly. After the hearty meal my legs complained of lack of exercises. Now would you believe that? I’d been walking well over 6km laden with the baggage but the legs saying not enough. What crazy legs I’ve got.

There was this Mama who talked very passionately about Kohonawala, especially the hardships they have to undergo. He willingly offered to take us on a village tour and we jumped in. There were a lot of kids hanging around the temple coz the monk is so kind. He has started farming and boasts all kinds of green leaves, vegetables, yams and fruits. To be honest, he’s self-sufficient save for rice and coconuts. The villagers bring him the alms for both morning and lunch but he doesn’t need to depend on them. What he says is that there might be a time the villagers not able to provide him with food, so he should be able to find his own. He’s been to a Aranya Senasana (temple in the jungle) and claims that the Buddhist monks are taught everything from cooking to construction to sewing. That is taught so that they can survive with minimal facilities and improvise on what little is available. For us, he’s done just that, living on the bare minimum and improving what is available.

We went to the half-finished image house and foundation laid temple waiting for someone to do the needful. Samantha’s brother R. M. Vajira joined us too. The small shop that is the only one in the village belongs to Samantha’s and his father had given the land for the temple. He’s also a very capable native doctor. We went to see him but wasn’t at home so went further downhill. We came to another well-built house with a beautifully designed garden and went to say hello. This is where high ranking officials or females stay should they have to spend the night in the village. The aunty had just come from Kahataruppa fair and we saw her mute daughter. There are two mute people and a disabled kid for the whole village and Sheham said it could be due to marriages from the same family. However monk disagreed saying there were only 3 people like that and all the others are in very good health conditions. Nevertheless we noticed the identical facial features of the people. They all look more or less the same.

We didn’t see any youths, say age between 20-30 and when asked our guide Mama said they had all gone out of the village and not likely to return. Mama asked if we wanted to visit the disable 9-year old boy and we went to see him. What a tragedy it is. He’s been lying on his back ever since he was born and suffering from born deformation. The mother and sister were there and according to Mama, she has to stay 24/7 by him to attend to his needs. If anyone can donate a slanting wheel chair, that would be a great thing. However we heard that the government is giving the family Rs. 3000/- a month and even built a small house. His father had been admitted to Badulla hospital with fever making life even more difficult for them. That boy can’t speak, he keeps making a noise that none can figure out. Doctors have written him off claiming that can’t be cured. We gave some money for them and left towards a world’s end like place.

We had to walk along a rocky surface and when raining it’d be impossible. The whole area would turn into a giant waterfall during rains. At the end of was a sheer drop of about 400-500 feet. Mama said Suddha’s brother had fallen off while chasing a chameleon and died long ago. The place looked very dangerous and we did short video clips Mama telling us about the village and its history.

Video 1

Video 2

Then on the return journey we spotted a crystal clear rocky pool and Tony and I wanted to go for a dip. Samantha and Vajira looked excitedly while we jumped in and splashed like kids. Sheham and Atha couldn’t resist further and they jumped in too. The crystal clear cool water washed away our fatigue in seconds. Funnily the tiny fish residing in the pool started feeding on our skin softly gnawing at our feet. Tony was struggling as for him it was very tickling. He kept shouting amid laughter from all of us, even from kids. You can see the fish therapy video below.

Video of Fish Therapy

After a mind and soul lifting bath, we got back to the temple to see the monk cutting pumpkin leaves (Wattakka Dalu) for the dinner. There was a Kesel Muwa and it too was plucked while the first ever harvest of Thibbatu from his farm was readied with others. He sent Suddha to buy some Kerosene for the generator claiming he can’t keep us in the dark amid our heavy protests. It was so good to see how closely he associated with the villagers as they kept coming to see him after the day’s choirs. We saw one person carrying a 8-foot roofing sheet on his back from the river, about 2km all on his own. That’s their commitment for the temple.

The dinner was coming nicely. Sliced Kesel Muwa mixed with Thibbatu and tempered dried fish made my mouth water. Pumpkin leave mallung added those punchy flavors. To cool everything down was a sweet smelling Kiri Hodi. The rice was red and organic. We didn’t see any sign of chemicals. It tasted super tendering every morsel of food nursing our tasty buds. That was one the best meals I’d ever had. We saw the people coming down to the village from thousands of feet above from Madolsima. We tested our long range torches around the mountains and were ready to hit the sack by 9. It was a rollercoaster day and we had plans to climb up to the Ambalama on the following morning. The sleep came ever so slowly from the toes through the veins right up to the head and we were dead to the whole world. Not even Yakinni or Ghost of Muththa could wake us up from our reverie.

 

The sun peering above

The sun peering above

Patches of mist covering the view

Patches of mist covering the view

A couple on the hunt

A couple on the hunt

Looking out for some food

Looking out for some food

Going was pretty fast

Going was pretty fast

Just reached Urumeethenna

Just reached Urumeethenna

Above the trees is Viyangala

Above the trees is Viyangala

Look at those colors

Look at those colors

Asela to the extreme left and Suddha with the sack on his shoulders. Dhammananda Thero and next to him is little Samantha with the rest of my team

Asela to the extreme left and Suddha with the sack on his shoulders. Dhammananda Thero and next to him is little Samantha with the rest of my team

Suddha leading the way and you can see Pinky the dog in front

Suddha leading the way and you can see Pinky the dog in front

One of the things that I can't leave alone

One of the things that I can’t leave alone

The mountains above Kohonawala

The mountains above Kohonawala

The downhill journey was tiring than we thought

The downhill journey was tiring than we thought

Taking some paddy to the mill at Urumeethenna. Just imagine their plight

Taking some paddy to the mill at Urumeethenna. Just imagine their plight

Anpitiya Bodhiya

Anpitiya Bodhiya

Finally at Loggal Oya, see the sand digging point as well.

Finally at Loggal Oya, see the sand digging point as well.

The team taking a break before crossing the river

The team taking a break before crossing the river

Just think how it would be when the river is in full flow

Just think how it would be when the river is in full flow

Nice and calm for the moment

Nice and calm for the moment

Asela carrying the sack now

Asela carrying the sack now

Famous Madu with a flower

Famous Madu with a flower

Breathtaking view of Viyangala, the proposed Kohonawala temple lies of the base of her

Breathtaking view of Viyangala, the proposed Kohonawala temple lies of the base of her

Not ripe yet.

Not ripe yet.

Taking a much needed break. You can see the concrete patches and the wide road, they just need this done with a bridge across the river

Taking a much needed break. You can see the concrete patches and the wide road, they just need this done with a bridge across the river

Beyond Kahataruppa

Beyond Kahataruppa

The first house we stopped for a glass of water.

The first house we stopped for a glass of water.

Now very close to the temple.

Now very close to the temple.

The defense secretary of Dhammananda Thero and Suddha's father. He goes all the way to Madolsima just to buy a leaf of Tobacco

The defense secretary of Dhammananda Thero and Suddha’s father. He goes all the way to Madolsima just to buy a leaf of Tobacco

Community hall cum temple. We're finally here

Community hall cum temple. We’re finally here

Asela getting ready to boil some water

Asela getting ready to boil some water

From left: Samantha, his bro Vajira and Shanika. All with R.M. as their family name

From left: Samantha, his bro Vajira and Shanika. All with R.M. as their family name

Very thirsty

Very thirsty

Improvisation

Improvisation

The list of houses for alms for the whole month. Note the names of their houses (Click image to enlarge)

The list of houses for alms for the whole month. Note the names of their houses (Click image to enlarge)

Super macro with stunning colors

Super macro with stunning colors

Another beauty

Another beauty

Manioc with that unique Lunu Miris at the side

Manioc with that unique Lunu Miris at the side

He's showing us the path to Madolsima

He’s showing us the path to Madolsima

Unfinished Image house cum Library

Unfinished Image house cum Library

The Bo tree

The Bo tree

The temple at the base of Viyangala. Urgently need roofing sheets, metal and cement

The temple at the base of Viyangala. Urgently need roofing sheets, metal and cement

Vajira and Janthu the dog

Vajira and Janthu the dog

Majestic Viyangala

Majestic Viyangala

We saw hundreds of mangoes under most of the trees being rotten as they have no means to take them either to Kahataruppa or Madolsima for selling. What a waste?

We saw hundreds of mangoes under most of the trees being rotten as they have no means to take them either to Kahataruppa or Madolsima for selling. What a waste?

This is where the high ranking officials are staying if they have to stay overnight

This is where the high ranking officials are staying if they have to stay overnight

The lady of the house with me and the kids Samantha and Vajira, our guide Mama is behind

The lady of the house with me and the kids Samantha and Vajira, our guide Mama is behind

The family

The family

This house has only one old uncle and the rest of the household is not there. The boys have left the village

This house has only one old uncle and the rest of the household is not there. The boys have left the village

Going downhill

Going downhill

This well is giving water right throughout regardless of the weather

This well is giving water right throughout regardless of the weather

Just sitting next to the well

Just sitting next to the well

Akkapana flowers

Akkapana flowers

Being dried to make Kithul Piti

Being dried to make Kithul Piti

Here's the kid I referred to. Doesn't even a have a mattress. A wheel chair would be very welcome

Here’s the kid I referred to. Doesn’t even a have a mattress. A wheel chair would be very welcome

Helmalu System

Helmalu System

Going nice and strong

Going nice and strong

Water falling like steps

Water falling like steps

Not a lot of water

Not a lot of water

It'd turn out to be a giant waterfall when it's raining

It’d turn out to be a giant waterfall when it’s raining

The Kohonawala World's End, where one boy fell to his death

The Kohonawala World’s End, where one boy fell to his death

The team

The team

Crystal clear pond before we jumped in

Crystal clear pond before we jumped in

Tony's being tickled by the fish

Tony’s being tickled by the fish

Wisps of clouds kissing the summit of Viyangala

Wisps of clouds kissing the summit of Viyangala

Ordered to perfection

Ordered to perfection

Janthu who can't stay away from the monk

Janthu who can’t stay away from the monk

Lakmali

Lakmali

Freshly plucked Wattakka Dalu

Freshly plucked Wattakka Dalu

Cut to tiny pieces

Cut to tiny pieces

Just like a painting, ain't it?

Just like a painting, ain’t it?

Special kind of tomatoes

Special kind of tomatoes

Everything you need

Everything you need

One of the many varieties

One of the many varieties

Fresh Thibbatu being cooked with dried fish

Fresh Thibbatu being cooked with dried fish

A squirrel feeding on the juicy flowers

A squirrel feeding on the juicy flowers

What are they talking about?

What are they talking about?

Kesel Muwa added

Kesel Muwa added

I can't wait any more

I can’t wait any more

Wish I can bring the smell with the pic as well

Wish I can bring the smell with the pic as well

Perfect ending for a perfect day.

Perfect ending for a perfect day.

Day 2

As usual we beat the 5am alarm and were up and aimed our torches out hoping to get a glimpse of the misty mountain tops. The previous day the monk predicted that we might not get up till about 10am and would feel the tiredness. Little did he know we were hard core types, may not be as tough as the villagers but we could take a beating. Having folded the mats and sheets, we washed our faces while the morning came fast. Just so you know, the story about the sun rises at 9am and sets around 3-4pm is not correct. What really happens is the sun rays hit the village about 9am and leaves around 3-4pm. Most think it’s dark till late morning and then gets dark late afternoon but it’s not true. This happens as the whole village is located in a deep ravine completely surrounded by over 1000ft high mountains. So they block the sun rays reaching the village itself till about 9am and 3-4pm. Because of this there’s a gloominess hovering around the village. But it is not like many speculate. That was the main reason I wanted to spend overnight.

Samantha who was supposed to guide us up the hill early morning was fast asleep even at 6.30am and Suddha was mumbling in his sleep. So we decided to make it on our own and left at 6.35am. It’s not rocket science as the path was pretty much clear and we started ascending, we met few others heading uphill overtaking us with no problem. Previous evening Suddha claimed he takes about 45mins to reach the Ambalama so we figured it would take us about 2hrs. Walking continuously uphill took its toll on our knees and joints but we weren’t gonna give up that easy. Taking frequent breaks and drinking water we reached the place called Galpoththa in about an hour and I decided to call the temple and woke them up. We could clearly see the temple and when called the monk was surprised to see us getting there that quick. He said manioc curry was in order and to take care.

Then we heard the good news of Sri Lanka winning the Asia cup finally breaking their habit of making it to the final and losing it. I was sick of our team always being the bridesmaid. We all cheered for our boys about 850m above with a magnificent view of the mountains. We could clearly see the path we took from Urumeethenna and the Kahataruppa mountains. There was another temple about 9km away from the Kohonawala temple on top of a rock and accessible easily by road from Kahataruppa. We came across a serpent that was looking for a breakfast. Sheham, who had studied extensively about them, recognized it to be not poisonous. Viyan Gala rose majestically and morning sun rays lighted the tip of it beautifully. Sun was rising directly from Madolsima end. We finally reached the Ambalama by 8am, just under 1.5hrs. Our spirits rose 10ft at our achievement and we took a long break savoring this unprecedented beauty all around.

It was also very heart breaking to see what the villagers have written on the roof and walls claiming nobody cares about them or their well-being. Gosh, why can’t those politicians who go begging for their votes can’t do something for them. Just give them the road and the bridge across Loggal Oya, that’s all they ask for. Other things will follow automatically. Ironically, these people have to climb this 9km stretch to go and cast their votes too. Why on earth should they bother, I kept wondering. Previous evening we saw hundreds and thousands of mangoes that had fallen under the trees without being used. According to our guide Mama, they don’t have the means to take them either to Kahataruppa or Madolsima to sell as there is no proper road or a bridge. What a waste? We’re spending millions importing chemicals induced Apples, Oranges and Grapes while our own organic Mangoes rot under the trees in thousands. If those villagers can sell a mango for just 1 rupee, they could make a lot money and we’d get to buy those for a reasonable price.

Having taken a long break we decided to push a bit further towards the patch of turpentine trees. All in all, we hiked for 2km and climbed to a height of over 1000m from around 600m mark from the village. Madolsima was another 7km away with at least another 300-400m elevation. But we had no time to do the full stretch. In the meantime I decided to shoot a short video of the old musketeers going down.

Video of Old Musketeers

We retraced our steps back to the Ambalama where I shot another short documentary while Sheham and Atha went ahead of us.

Documentary from Kohonawala Ambalama

We witnessed the sun rays hitting the village around 9am from Ambalama. Climbing down wasn’t that easy due to the steepness of the path yet we made good time. On the way downhill we met more people going to Madolsima. We came across some pineapple plants with pineapples. Most of them were still green but one of them had that deep red which I adore. Unfortunately none of them was yet edible and we were ravenous after the laborious task. We reached the temple by 10am sharp, taking 3.5hrs to finish the whole journey. The manioc curry was in the works with a deep yellow and a hunger inviting smell. The monk was cutting a special kind of leaves called, if I’m not mistaken, Thamberiya that you don’t get in many other places. We were looking forward to this feast while Asela served us tea.

There was a meeting taking place at the community hall and we thought it would be best if we left before that. After the Buddha Poojah and monk had his lunch, we were invited for yet another sumptuous meal of Rice, Manioc Curry, Thibbatu Salad and Thamberiya Mallung. Wow, what a meal it was. There were a lot of people who had come to visit the monk and they were delighted to see us. They were very curious about our state of the art torches and cameras and kept patting them at every opportunity.

Finally it was time to bid farewell for this wonderful village and its people, especially the kindly monk who is trying really hard to make this a better place for the next generation. We didn’t forget to make a small donation to the construction of the temple. I know what’s going on many people’s minds now. Coz the same thing was in my mind before coming to this place and see it with my own eyes. Thanks to the things happening in the world nowadays we live in, we tend to look at things and people suspiciously. It’s natural you know coz this world is full of crooks, liars, cheaters, etc. We’ve been deceived and taken for granted countless times and now we just don’t trust anyone or anything. However we felt this monk is different and for real. He said so far he had received donations worth around 275,000/- both money and equipment. He’s keeping records should anyone wanna see. He’s the unofficial records keeper of the village as he has details of all the villagers. He’s even helped most of them to obtain NICs.

But from what we’ve seen I can tell you that they don’t need subsidies such as Samurdhi. All they need are a bridge, properly paved road and a temple with a Sunday school and a library. The monk had sent the 4 small monks for further studies at a Pirivena in Kalubowila coz they will be the future leaders for the village. I’ve given the bank account number of the temple should you wanna contribute. However if you are not comfortable giving money, you could always donate materials such as cement, 8-feet roofing sheets and metal. Further books for the library will be very welcome, they don’t have to be brand new, if you have books on you that are no more in use, please give them away to a place like this without offering them to the termites.

We walked back to the river while Samantha tagging along with us all the way coz he felt sad about our leaving. He kept asking when we’d be back. By the way Sheham has plans to help with solar lighting to the temple if possible. We recrossed the Loggal Oya having folded our shorts shorter. Samantha bid farewell to us and ran back to the lost world. Walking the rest of the journey to Urumeethenna left us gasping for air all the way. About half way through, there was a rustling on the side of the road. When inspected closely it turned out to be one the most poisonous snakes in the world, Russell’s Viper. It was so big about 3ft in length and as thick as an arm. We practically ran at the sight of it. Eventually we made in one piece to Urumeethenna and our faithful Toyota was waiting for us. Viyan Gala looked forlornly at our departure just like Lady Lakegala. Just thinking of her make me wanna see her again, soon. Who knows if she wants to see me too it’d happen sooner rather than later.

Old Folks Crossing the Loggal Oya

Well guys, there ends yet another fairy tale of mine and I guess this turned out longer than I first thought. I do hope I could do justice to the report and add that extra bit of flavor to Ashan’s first ever report. I’m glad I could bring their pressing issues to the awareness of the rest of the world. If they get those dreams fulfilled just like Meemure folks (Thanks to Ana and Wije) did, it would be a great relief for me too.

Thanks for reading and this is Sri signing off for now. Take care!

 

6.35am and they're bringing the morning alms for the monk

6.35am and they’re bringing the morning alms for the monk

Mother and son watching us go

Mother and son watching us go

She simply vanished

She simply vanished

Joining the two mountains

Joining the two mountains

Going uphill took its toll on the oldies

Going uphill took its toll on the oldies

Reminds me of beloved Meemure

Reminds me of beloved Meemure

Towards Kahataruppa

Towards Kahataruppa

Giant mango tree

Giant mango tree

Heen Bovitiya, very useful medicine in native treatments

Heen Bovitiya, very useful medicine in native treatments

The up we go, the clearer the view became

The up we go, the clearer the view became

Building a new home

Building a new home

This 500m is very steep at places nearly 70-degrees

This 500m is very steep at places nearly 70-degrees

Morning creativity

Morning creativity

"Come on Tony"

“Come on Tony”

I can't take my eyes off

I can’t take my eyes off

Madu, we missed having a curry out of these

Madu, we missed having a curry out of these

Can you see the zig-zag shape path? It's used by the people coming from the upper tea estates. Just can’t describe how steep it is

Can you see the zig-zag shape path? It’s used by the people coming from the upper tea estates. Just can’t describe how steep it is

No obstacles now

No obstacles now

No wind

No wind

Looking for some sunlight

Looking for some sunlight

Hurrraaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhh!!!!!!

Hurrraaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhh!!!!!!

Over the Ambalama

Over the Ambalama

The two houses close to each other are Samantha's and the one partially hidden is the community hall cum temple

The two houses close to each other are Samantha’s and the one partially hidden is the community hall cum temple

Here's the temple about 9km away from Kohonawala on top of a rock. Must be having a grand view

Here’s the temple about 9km away from Kohonawala on top of a rock. Must be having a grand view

Inside the Ambalama

Inside the Ambalama

One of the best snaps

One of the best snaps

Decided to go a bit more

Decided to go a bit more

Where we came down from Urumeethenna

Where we came down from Urumeethenna

Clouds making patterns all around

Clouds making patterns all around

We entered the turpentine patch

We entered the turpentine patch

Mountains kept us company all the way

Mountains kept us company all the way

Wow

Wow

Well let's turn around was the unanimous decision

Well let’s turn around was the unanimous decision

Rising to the sky

Rising to the sky

With the aid of sticks

With the aid of sticks

Huge fella

Huge fella

"Anybody home?"

“Anybody home?”

For them it's just another short journey

For them it’s just another short journey

Tony and the Calf

Tony and the Calf

Look at the pattern

Look at the pattern

Irresistible

Irresistible

Wish it was ripe enough

Wish it was ripe enough

They were accompanying her barking at us

They were accompanying her barking at us

Every house has a solar panel

Every house has a solar panel

Macro

Macro

One of the tastiest manioc curries ever

One of the tastiest manioc curries ever

Thamberiya Mallung

Thamberiya Mallung

It's all ready

It’s all ready

The top of incomplete image house is seen on our way back

The top of incomplete image house is seen on our way back

Looks can be pretty deceptive

Looks can be pretty deceptive

Who would've thought that we climbed nearly to the top of what's behind us?

Who would’ve thought that we climbed nearly to the top of what’s behind us?

"Ayyo, not anymore" Tony kept crying

“Ayyo, not anymore” Tony kept crying

Not very far now

Not very far now

Please enjoy the Panos too:

Pano 1

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 2

Pano 3

Pano 3

Pano 4

Pano 4

Pano 5

Pano 5

Pano 6

Pano 6

Pano 7

Pano 7

Pano of the frustration of the villagers

Pano of the frustration of the villagers

More signs of frustration

More signs of frustration

Viyangala to the right

Viyangala to the right

One day trip to Madunagala (Mahapalassa)

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Year and Month March, 2014 (9th)
Number of Days Two Day Trip
Crew 03
Accommodation Madunagala Holiday Bungalow
Transport By motor bike and bus
Activities Archeology, Photography and relaxation
Weather Excellent
Route Embilipitiya -> Padalangala junction (පදලoගල හදිය) -> New Sooriyawewa road -> Hatharaman Handiya (හතරමo හoදිය)-> Madunagala(මදුනාගල) / Mahapalassa(මහපැලැස්ස) -> Madunagala Hot water springs and other places & Returned back by same route.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Don’t disturb meditation activities of Buddhist priests at hermitages. There are some foot pathways of hermitages only for priests. Then don’t get into meditation rooms-“Kuti” (කුටි) without permission.
  • It is better if you can visit at these places early morning or late evening to avoid extreme heat in the afternoon.
  • Road conditions are very good up to Madunagala Hot Water Spring.
  • Better clarify your way to hermitages and lake from locals. The road goes via Safari Junction has less distance and easy to find.
  • athing at Ridiyagama Lake (රිදියගම වැව) is a good option but at a safe place.
  • It is easy to cover all these places by one day if you have your own vehicle.
Related Resources
  1. Trip report: The Waterfall hunt which ended as an archaeology exploration!
  2. Discussion: Mahapelessa/Madunagala Hot Water Springs
  3. Discussion: Hot Water Springs in Sri Lanka
Author Niroshan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Madunagala/Mahapalassa is getting tourist attraction (both local and foreigners) due to presence of hot water springs. I have noted few recent reports in Lakdasun forum and stimulated me to visit there. When I was searching information about hot water springs, I could find some other tourist attractions of this area. They are given below:

  1. Madunagala hot water springs (මදුනාගල උණු වතුර ලිo)
  2. Madunagala Buddhist Hermitage (මදුනාගල ආරණ‍ය සේනාසනය)
  3. Karambagala Buddhist Hermitage (කරඹගල ආරණ‍ය සේනාසනය)
  4. Wiharagala Temple
  5. Ridiyagama Lake
  6. Ridiyagama Safari Park-Still under construction
  7.  Sooriyawewa International Cricket Stadium and Mattala Air port- If you are interesting.

We started the journey from Hatharaman Handiya (I arrived there by bus from Embilipitiya and other two joined with me by bike) and drove towards Madunagala Hot water springs by bike. We kept hot water springs on bottom of our list as it was full of tourists in Sunday morning.

We straightway went to Madunagala Buddhist Hermitage.

Madunagala Buddhist Hermitage.
This hermitage situated on a rock of Madunagala wild sanctuary. It has number of newly built meditation rooms-“Kuti”. Then you can visit at ancient pond, stone inscription and “Seema Malakaya” (සීමා මාලකය). Shrine house is situated on top of the rock where you can have a nice panoramic view of Hambanthota district.

Although I tried to find historical information about this hermitage it was not successful. This hermitage was founded by Ven. Wathurawila Gananada Thero in 1946.

The junction where you have to get turn to reach Madunagala Buddhist Hermitage

The junction where you have to get turn to reach Madunagala Buddhist Hermitage

According to this picture, it has been started since 1946

According to this picture, it has been started since 1946 – Click Image to Enlarge

Foot pathway strictly for sermons

Foot pathway strictly for sermons

The lake filled with lotus

The lake filled with lotus

“Pindapatha Shalawa” (පිණ්ඩපාත ශාලාව) where monks come for alms

“Pindapatha Shalawa” (පිණ්ඩපාත ශාලාව) where monks come for alms

Order

Order

Meditation rooms-“Kuti”

Meditation rooms-“Kuti”

“Seemamalakaya” and “Pohoya Geya” (පොහොය ගෙය)

“Seemamalakaya” and “Pohoya Geya” (පොහොය ගෙය)

Pillars of “Seemamalakaya”

Pillars of “Seemamalakaya”

Ancient pond is bordered by modern concrete parapet

Ancient pond is bordered by modern concrete parapet

Stone inscription

Stone inscription

First meditation room of this hermitage-“Palamu Lena”( පලමු ලෙන) . This indicates Ven.Wathurawila Gnanada Thero (pioneer) of this hermitage

First meditation room of this hermitage-“Palamu Lena”( පලමු ලෙන) . This indicates Ven.Wathurawila Gnanada Thero (pioneer) of this hermitage

Shrine house

Shrine house

Inside the shrine house.

Inside the shrine house.

View of Wiharagala temple (විහාරගල විහාරය).

View of Wiharagala temple (විහාරගල විහාරය).

Karambagala Hermitage is closer to Madunagala

Karambagala Hermitage is closer to Madunagala

Sooriyawewa International Cricket Stadium

Sooriyawewa International Cricket Stadium

Mattala airport

Mattala airport

Karambagala Buddhist Hermitage. (කරඹගල ආරණ‍ය සේනාසනය)

Karambagala Buddhist Hermitage is also situated closer to Madunagala Hermitage. (Don’t know there is a foot pathway from Madunagala to Karambagala). It has number of drip ledged caves (now converted to meditation rooms). Interesting place of this hermitage is “Karandulena” (කරඩුලෙන) where Chiththaguththa Arahath Thero (චිත්තගුත්ත මහරහතන් වහන්සේ) has meditated. According to the literature this cave (“Karandulena”) had beautiful paintings even at that time. (Approximately 5B.C). These paintings are older than famous Seegiri paintings.

You can have a good panoramic view than Madunagala.

Most of meditation rooms are in good condition and they have named it.

Most of meditation rooms are in good condition and they have named it.

Foot pathway

Foot pathway

Another cave.

Another cave.

Another cave

Another cave

“Karandulena”

“Karandulena”

Story of Chiththaguththa Arahath Thero

Story of Chiththaguththa Arahath Thero

Paintings following renovation

Paintings following renovation – Click Image to Enlarge

Ceiling with plaster

Ceiling with plaster

Buddha statue is on top of the rock

Buddha statue is on top of the rock

Stupa with ancient moon stone

Stupa with ancient moon stone

Bell tower is used as a transmission tower as well

Bell tower is used as a transmission tower as well

View of Ridiyagama Lake

View of Ridiyagama Lake

Stone inscription can be seen just below the drip ledge of “Thisaha Lena” (තිසහ ලෙන)

Stone inscription can be seen just below the drip ledge of “Thisaha Lena” (තිසහ ලෙන)

Wiharagala Temple.

This rock temple is also situated closer to hot water spring towards Sooriyawewa town. You can enjoy the surrounding beauty on top of this rock. They have started a project to build world’s largest incline Buddha statue on top of this rock.

Wiharagala Stupa is situated on top of the rock

Wiharagala Stupa is situated on top of the rock

Red arrow shows Madunagala Hermitage. Black arrow shows Karambagala Hermitage

Red arrow shows Madunagala Hermitage. Black arrow shows Karambagala Hermitage

“ම්දුනාගල අහසේ දගකරනා තරු ගනින්න……..”

“ම්දුනාගල අහසේ දගකරනා තරු ගනින්න……..”

Ridiyagama Tank.

This tank is situated down to Madunagala hot water springs. You can have a bath here. We didn’t go to bunt of the lake to have a bath as it is fairly deep.

Ridiyagama Lake

Ridiyagama Lake

Fishing at Ridiyagama Lake

Fishing at Ridiyagama Lake

.

.

.

.

Mahapalassa/Madunagala Hot water springs.

This place is well maintained by Ruhunu Tourists Bureau. It has four hot water tanks from which water collected into one common tank. People can have a bath from this common tank without getting into it. There are beautiful landscapes around this and a cage with rabbits. Unfortunately I couldn’t get a picture of hot water springs as tourists were bathing there.

They will provide parking facilities, toilet facilities and a place to eat in other side of the road.

.

.

Landscaping

Landscaping

Landscaping

Landscaping

Information about Madunagala hot water springs

Information about Madunagala hot water springs

Hot water tanks. Photo courtesy: Ashan

Hot water tanks. Photo courtesy: Ashan

Rabbits

Rabbits

Ridiyagama Safari Park

This is still under construction.

.

.

This is the only place provide accommodation in this area. I got to know it from Lakdasun link. (http://www.lakdasun.org/forum/index.php?topic=1078.0) This is belong to Ruhunu tourist bureau (RTB). (Government). It has two accommodation options;

  1. Four rooms within the Bungalow. Rs 2000.00 each and can accommodate 3-4 people. You can book these rooms separately.
  2. Two up stair rooms situated in a separate building. Rs 2500.00 each. It can accommodate only 3 people. (One triple bed is there). Although they say it has a good surrounding view, nothing special.

The booking procedure is handling by RTB-Galle office. (0912224072).

You have to deposit money to their account and then have to fax deposit slip. Sometimes their phone is not working after deposit. (What happened to us).

Food can be prepared by the cook of the bungalow after supplying cooking items. But we went to Sooriyawewa town to get our dinner.

Madunagala Holiday Bungalow

Madunagala Holiday Bungalow

Rooms

Rooms

Inside a room

Inside a room

Heritage of Ruhuna

Heritage of Ruhuna

Where we stayed

Where we stayed

Inside a room

Inside a room

Peacocks are so common

Peacocks are so common

Thank you for reading

Panirendawa ancient Iron ore and few wetlands of chilaw!

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Year and Month March, 2013
Number of Days 2
Crew first day 2 and next day many
Accommodation N/A
Transport Public transport & bikes
Activities Hiking, Bird watching, trekking
Weather Clear sky
Route
  • D1 Chilaw -> Anawilundawa -> Muthupanthiya ->  Navadankulam -> Chilaw -> Madampe
  • D2 Chilaw -> Punchivilaththawa junction -> Panirendawa -> Returned on the same route -> Chilaw
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Take a bottle of water
  • Do not carry Plastic items (Minimize), Make sure you bring back everything you took
  • Do not disturb bird life
  • Ask directions from locals
  • Need a guide to narrate in Panirendawa
Related Resources
Author Ashan
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hmmm! Thought of doing a report after a while and this is one report I couldn’t finish off last year! Im really happy my second home is not in an urbanized area like Colombo and there are plenty of places to hang around whenever I visit there. Chilaw area (Pitigal korale) is known to have 999 lakes which belong to god “Thaniwelle” and few of them are known for their bird life. I will be posting few snaps taken at those locations and if I haven’t mention the name of any bird that’s because I don’t know it or can’t recall the name.

One day both of us visited Anawilundawa a Ramsar wet land which is about 18Km’s from Chilaw towards Puttalam side. The walk along the bunds of Surawila and Anawilundawa lakes were simply awesome and relaxing. All together there are 6 lakes (Maiyawa, Surawila, Anawilundawa, Ihala wewa, Maradansole wewa & Pinkattiya wewa) which belongs to this wet land and the best thing is these are not completely isolated (paddyfields on one side) from civilization. What I usually do is start from Maiyawa junction and emerges at the Surawila lake bund to continue to Anawilundawa bund. Later I appear one junction away from Anawilundawa. This time I took the road which will take one towards the coastal line (from surawila bund) and reached a beautiful beach called Muthupanthiya (the name is given because locals believed that once there were plenty of oysters in that area). But one has to cross the ancient Hamilton canal with the aid of a “Paruwa” first which itself is a fun ride.

Map of Anawilundawa

Map of Anawilundawa – click to enlarge

map of Panirendawa

Map of Panirendawa – click to enlarge

Sun rise

Sun rise

dancing fish

dancing fish

Suruwila lake

Suruwila lake

the horizon

the horizon

a heron

a heron

a spoonbil on the trunk

a spoonbil on the trunk

beautiful isnt it?

beautiful isnt it?

 trees in the lake

trees in the lake

a hedge in the lake

a hedge in the lake

lovely path of surawila lake

lovely path of surawila lake

trying to merge in

trying to merge in

a paradise fly catcher

a paradise fly catcher

an eagle

an eagle

 a jacana

a jacana

"Kirala"

“Kirala”

they are at work

they are at work

too busy i guess

too busy i guess

a bul bul

a bul bul

unknown

unknown

entering Anawilundawa

entering Anawilundawa

anawilundawa lake

anawilundawa lake

what a walk we had

what a walk we had

a lonely tree out of many

a lonely tree out of many

 some shade for the lake

some shade for the lake

mirror effect

mirror effect

yummy

yummy

joker

joker

Glassy Tiger

Glassy Tiger

plenty of them

plenty of them

pond heron

pond heron

 a bee eater

a bee eater

locals ostirtch

locals ostirtch

Lesser whistling ducks

Lesser whistling ducks

an ibis

an ibis

a parrot

a parrot

Reflection

Reflection

Purple coot

Purple coot

nesting

nesting

the canal we had to cross

the canal we had to cross

the mode of transport

the mode of transport

muthupanthiya beach

muthupanthiya beach

cute isnt it?

cute isnt it?

the catch

the catch

After enjoying Muthupanthiya we returned to the main road and went towards 104Km post where there is board directing towards the east saying Navadamkulam. At Navadamkulam there are two lakes one of them been the Navadamkulam tank and the other been Periyakadawala lake. The walk in the shade of few “mara” trees and a tickling breeze made us pause for few minutes before we went around spotting many whistling ducks, since it was already 10am not many birds were to see. Next place we visited was a famous kovil called Udappuwa which is located in the fishing village of Udappuwa where the Battulu oya meets the ocean (usually at this point the moya kata is closed with sand). The heat at Udappuwa was unbearable but if you are a bird lover there are many birds around who roam along the coastal line. We didn’t forget to visit Thaniwelle devalaya at Madampe on our way back because we had to do some offerings. You won’t miss this place because it’s on the side of the A3 highway close to Madampe. From there we took a short cut and reached our home to end a tiring day.

Quote from Wikipedia

The village is known for its elaborate Hindu temples and unique festivals. In the Tamil month of Avani which corresponds to late July to early August, an 18-day festival commences with the flag-hoisting ceremony and ending with fire-walking in front of Udappu’s Draupati Amman Temple. The 18-day period is spent in prayer and fasting, with a priest reciting the Mahabharata epic to remind everyone of the story of Draupadi, the five Pandava brothers’ common wife, whose chaste and virtuous ways enabled her to recover the kingdom they been deprived of by King Duryodhana. The Draupadi festival comes to a conclusion on the final evening when the entire male population of Udappu walk barefoot over a bed of red hot coals without injury in a ceremony called Tee Mithi in Tamil language

Un quote

the bund of navadamkulam

the bund of navadamkulam

 Polos kottoruwa

Polos kottoruwa

munia

munia

huge leaves

huge leaves

contrast

contrast

oh beauty

oh beauty

 Navadamkulam tank

Navadamkulam tank

flowers or leaves

flowers or leaves

note the fish

note the fish

narrowed path

narrowed path

couldnt stop snapping these

couldnt stop snapping these

lovely

lovely

lush green

lush green

 the other lake

the other lake

 framed

framed

 male jacana

male jacana

mode of transport

mode of transport

cotton pygmy goose

cotton pygmy goose

beauty

beauty

a lilly

a lilly

 fly away ducky

fly away ducky

a moth

a moth

yellowish butterfly

yellowish butterfly

bokkeh effect

bokkeh effect

just before turning green

just before turning green

lesser grebe

lesser grebe

many ducks

many ducks

 the board says it all

the board says it all

 

halted

halted

fishing villege

fishing villege

sand blocking the river meeting the ocean

sand blocking the river meeting the ocean

after school female version

after school female version

 after school male version

after school male version

udappu kovil

udappu kovil

side view

side view

gods

gods

inside the kovil

inside the kovil

more gods

more gods

statue

statue

the initial kovil

the initial kovil

living in flood plains

living in flood plains

hard life

hard life

 lovely

lovely

@ thaniwelle devalaya

@ thaniwelle devalaya

wood art

wood art

smoked

smoked

offering

offering

Next day was special one for me and few of our family members also joined us on this venture. Our target was a forest patch called Panirendawa belonging to Madampe and Chilaw divisions which has many foot paths. Actually one needs a guide otherwise they will get lost in this forest patch. First we went to visit the ancient iron ore where 7 wells with water could be found unfortunately only one well had water. This place was the main source of iron to some of the ancient kingdoms in Sri lanka and the iron mixed earth is good evidence at this site. We also overheard that the geological department carried out few studies recently in the area. Next was a family hike in the forest, we had to halt our bikes and go by foot. And the walk was ever so rewarding. I still can remember the “veralu” tree we came across where we enjoyed many fruits for a while. There are lots of valuable trees in this reserve and for mammals Deer’s, Samber and the occasional elephant that pays a visit are the known ones. After spending half a day in the Panirendawa east forest reserve we returned back home to end our mini tour.

a name board

a name board

Entering Panirendawa forest from hen yaya

Entering Panirendawa forest from hen yaya

remains of melted iron

remains of melted iron

a natural well out of 7

a natural well out of 7

 the one which had water

the one which had water

 iron

iron

note the superficial iron stores

note the superficial iron stores

entering the forest

entering the forest

dry zone forest at Chilaw

dry zone forest at Chilaw

stay away

stay away

mushrooms on a bark

mushrooms on a bark

tall trees

tall trees

wrapped together

wrapped together

the only and huge Thekka tree

the only and huge Thekka tree

veralu fresh from the tree

veralu fresh from the tree

the photographer

the photographer

 lovely purple

lovely purple

Thanks for reading!

Irresistible Force of the Nature – Tour de Waterfalls 2…

$
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Year and Month 13 May, 2014
Number of Days 1
Crew 2 (Tony and Me)
Accommodation N/A
Transport By Bike
Activities Photography, Hiking, Waterfall Hunting, Archaeology, etc…
Weather Excellent
Route Maharagama->Avissawella->Kuruwita->Erathna->Back to Kuruwita->Ratnapura->Malwala->Sri Palabaddala->Back to Malwala->Wewelwatte->Ratnapura->Maharagama.
Tips, Notes and Special remark
  • Leech Protection will be a good option depending on the weather and your phobia to them.
  • Always choose just after rains to visit them if you wanna see them in full flow or at least some water as many of these are being killed thanks to Mini Hydro Power Plant which spreads like a cancer.
  • Bathing in most of these places is not safe as some of them can be pretty deep. So take necessary precautions.
  • Take drinking water as most of these waterways are now being polluted big time due to agricultural and other activities.
  • Do help save the Nature. Don’t litter or harm anything. If you can, clean the place as much as you can by collecting the litter strewn about and dumping them at the allocated places.
  • Be really careful when you go by bikes as you all well know that the big vehicles don’t give a toss about them. Especially in the night, take extra precaution to avoid a catastrophic event.
  • For many of the people, they are not waterfalls but just waterways. So keep checking and make sure to ask the directions either from young fellows or older people. Young ones will know all the waterfalls but not the names and the older folks know the names.
  • Do hurry up and see as many waterfalls as possible for they’re disappearing rapidly. We’ll soon be left with only the memories and pics.
  • Do check our previous Waterfall Journey of Wewelwatte too for more info.
  • You can check my Tour de Waterfalls 1 here.
  • I’ve tried my best to be as accurately as possible with the directions and the distances. So bear with me for any miscalculations as they all were done in my mind with no sophisticated gadgets.

 

Author Sri Abeywickrema
Comments Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread

Hiya everyone and Sri is back with the 2nd of his new variety of trip reports, Waterfall Hunting. I guess you’ve enjoyed the 1st and hoping this too would arouse your interest and make you wanna pay a visit to these beautiful girls ASAP.

After our Hunt on 01 May, I was yearning to do more of them as the season is ideal for it. However, there was this nagging feeling in the back of my mind about visiting Batadomba Lena as well for the past year or so. My visits to Beli Lena, Pahiyangala and Alawala Pre-Historic caves stimulated this idea more and more so decided to get two birds with one stone.

Tony managed to get permission from his Royal Highness and joined me for the 2nd leg of Tour de Waterfalls with his ever so trusted bike which is as old as him. We met around 4.30am and hit the High Level Road and were on our way merrily. However come Godagama and Tony suddenly braked hard to avoid a ghost Tuk-tuk which drove across with no lights whatsoever. The result was the headlamp of our bike came off and was hanging from the wires as a result of the brake. Just imagine how old is the bike and Tony himself. I was worried right throughout that Tony might fall apart just like the bike.

We reached Pussalla just after Parakaduwa where we came across this nice eating place called Suwa Rasa Hala managed by the Ayurvedic Department of Sabaragamuwa Province. It’s on the right hand side of the main road bordered by a dozen or so Na Trees (Our National Tree). We sat down for a meal of very tasty Kola Kenda with real Kithul Jaggery which soon followed by a plateful of rice and curry stimulating our tasty buds to no end. They sell these organic and authentic SL foods such as Varieties of Rice, Garlic in Bee Honey, Ayurvedic Medicine, etc.

After a hearty meal which I had to restrain Tony with a difficulty, we headed towards Kuruwita where this majestic journey was about to begin.

Tour Highlights:

1. Batathota Cave aka Diva Guhawa, Erathna

2. Batadombalena Pre-Historic Cave

3. Elle Gedara Falls, Elle Gedara

4. Dumpus Falls, Gilimale

5. Mapalana aka Mapanana Falls, Mapalana, Sri Palabaddala

6. Haalmehi Falls, Sri Palabaddala

7. Kadurugal Dola Falls, Wewelwatte

8. Beruwatte Falls, Wewelwatte

9. Dehena Falls – Revisited, Amunuthenna

10. Hal Falls – Revisitied, Amunuthenna

11. Katu Kithul Falls – Revisited, Amunuthenna

12. Aanda Falls, Meegasthenna, Galabada

We reached Kuruwita and took the turn off towards Erathna where one of the many routes to Sacred Sri Pada.

Batathota Cave aka Diva Guhawa

Take the Kuruwita-Erathna Road and after about 10km you’ll get a turn off to your left with the signage. This will take you straight to the steps of Batathota Cave Temple. You have to climb about 500-600m to reach the cave with a gigantic Buddha Statue. Unfortunately the door was closed to the cave that held the statue as we reached the place around 8.00am.

There’s another cave complex called Sthreepura close by but the path is almost completely blocked by the overgrowth and we couldn’t find anyone interested in showing us the path. One of the electricians we met at the cave informed that the path hasn’t been used for a very long time and very much covered by the dense forest. Apparently it’s a very large complex with a tiny opening to go deep inside.

 

Simply delicious and healthy

Simply delicious and healthy

We're here and they've built steps plus a roof all the way...

We’re here and they’ve built steps plus a roof all the way…

Up we go

Up we go

Ok, the long story cut short

Ok, the long story cut short

The Sri Pada Mountain and Kunudiya Pawwa looking like Sigiriya in the distance

The Sri Pada Mountain and Kunudiya Pawwa looking like Sigiriya in the distance

This was a mega-sized one

This was a mega-sized one

The statue is of Balangoda Ananda Maithree Thero

The statue is of Balangoda Ananda Maithree Thero

The giant Buddha Statue is inside but the door was locked unfortunately

The giant Buddha Statue is inside but the door was locked unfortunately

The pond is being fed by constant dripping of water from the rocky ledge up... This statue of a massive frog is fitting the picture

The pond is being fed by constant dripping of water from the rocky ledge up… This statue of a massive frog is fitting the picture

Up close... must be looking gorgeous in the night when the lights are on

Up close… must be looking gorgeous in the night when the lights are on

From the cave looking out

From the cave looking out

Never escape me

Never escape me

Just look at the headlamp. It fell off and we had to improvise. Guess it speaks itself for its age

Just look at the headlamp. It fell off and we had to improvise. Guess it speaks itself for its age

Batadombalena Pre-Historic Cave

Take the Kuruwita-Erathna Road for about 2-3km and take a turn to the right at Ekneligoda Walauwa. It is Guruluwana Road and you’ll find a sign-posting put up giving the distance is 5km from there. You’ll have to keep an eye out for the head of the trail which has both an Archaeological Department signage and a name board announcing “Batadamobalena Road” which is not actually a road but a footpath through rubber and tea patches about 1km in length.

We saw a roadside falls which apparently also being called “Arambe Ella”. This had very little water and our friend Wije too had visited this recently and there had been a little bit more water (Wije’s Report here). However, the documented Arambe Ella which is more than 55m in height, is located somewhere in Masimbula on Rakwana-Godakawela Road.

 

The turn off towards Batadombalena from Erathna Road near Ekneligoda Walawwa

The turn off towards Batadombalena from Erathna Road near Ekneligoda Walawwa

"Hey, Atha is here too", Tony exclaimed

“Hey, Atha is here too”, Tony exclaimed

Ok, here's the sign just passing that puppet to the left. This is at a bend so you're bound to drive past so keep an eye out for this. The path is just beyond the board itself

Ok, here’s the sign just passing that puppet to the left. This is at a bend so you’re bound to drive past so keep an eye out for this. The path is just beyond the board itself

Ok, here's the landmark

Ok, here’s the landmark

The path uphill through rubber estate, bound to have many leeches

The path uphill through rubber estate, bound to have many leeches

Nearly stepped on it

Nearly stepped on it

How many fingers does it have?

How many fingers does it have?

About 300m uphill, we got a clear view towards Kuruwita

About 300m uphill, we got a clear view towards Kuruwita

Thick over hanging trees keep this wet

Thick over hanging trees keep this wet

The path borders a rocky wall

The path borders a rocky wall

One of the many cascaded that we came across

One of the many cascaded that we came across

Beautiful, ain't it?

Beautiful, ain’t it?

A character from Hemingway's book "Old Man & the Sea"

A character from Hemingway’s book “Old Man & the Sea”

Sprinkling onto the rocks below

Sprinkling onto the rocks below

Just passed the forest patch and again into a rubber patch

Just passed the forest patch and again into a rubber patch

There it is in the distance

There it is in the distance

Tiny water line coming from the top... must be grand when it's in full flow

Tiny water line coming from the top… must be grand when it’s in full flow

Doesn't look like there'd been visitors recently

Doesn’t look like there’d been visitors recently

Almost there

Almost there

Here it is with the usual deep pit

Here it is with the usual deep pit

Cavernous cave

Cavernous cave

Nothing but empty hole

Nothing but empty hole

Hasn't been attacked by Bats as it's not in darkness

Hasn’t been attacked by Bats as it’s not in darkness

Ok, here's a ghost of one of the Pre-Historic men captured on my lens

Ok, here’s a ghost of one of the Pre-Historic men captured on my lens

Ananda Lena, where monks meditated is to the left

Ananda Lena, where monks meditated is to the left

Inside it and you can see the beds created using earth

Inside it and you can see the beds created using earth

The water kept constantly dripping from the top reminding us of Beli Lena

The water kept constantly dripping from the top reminding us of Beli Lena

Batadombalena, finally visited

Batadombalena, finally visited

Dead tree arts

Dead tree arts

You too are gorgeous

You too are gorgeous

Elle Gedara Falls

From Kuruwita, continue along the A4 towars Rathnapura passing Paradise, Kahengama and Batuhena. Just before the Amuthagoda Junction, there’s a left turn off towards Elle Gedara (Panukarapitiya-Palm Garden Road). Take this road for 2-2.5km and you’ll come to what we call a “Sapaththu Palama” and the waterfall is just to the right.

Just remember, to see the real falls you have to go about 50m uphill along the waterway. What you see from the road is just the Lower Elle Gedara Falls.

 

The board says you're not supposed to do these but most of them do just that. Maybe they can't figure out these are "Don'ts" not "Dos"

The board says you’re not supposed to do these but most of them do just that. Maybe they can’t figure out these are “Don’ts” not “Dos”

The shoe bridge I mentioned

The shoe bridge I mentioned

Just getting to the lower falls

Just getting to the lower falls

Here she is to the left

Here she is to the left

Up close

Up close

From the top looking down

From the top looking down

Very nice

Very nice

This is in the middle and we had to walk uphill to see the real falls

This is in the middle and we had to walk uphill to see the real falls

Climbing wasn't an issue

Climbing wasn’t an issue

Here she is

Here she is

Very nice and the right amount of water

Very nice and the right amount of water

Closer

Closer

The base

The base

The side angle

The side angle

"Mata Mahalu Wayase - Beriya Wena Gayana Perase"

“Mata Mahalu Wayase – Beriya Wena Gayana Perase”

Curious fella

Curious fella

Dumpus Ella

From Rathnapura, take the Wewelwatte road and it’ll fork at Malwala. The left one going to Siripagama (Sri Palabaddala) while the right one towards Wewelwatte and Balangoda. Take the left towards Sri Palabaddala towards Gilimale. Passing the main bridge at Gilimale (more like an enclosed but a narrow one) head further towards Induruwa Bridge which is with no railings on either side just before the 9th-km post.

The falls is just to the left about 10-15m from the bridge. According to a bunch of village boys who were bathing, the base pool is very deep. One claimed nearly 40ft but Tony didn’t offer to go find it for himself so we’re stuck with the boy’s word.

 

The Induruwa bridge at  Dumpus Falls

The Induruwa bridge at Dumpus Falls

Wow

Wow

Gushing down

Gushing down

Extreme left corner

Extreme left corner

Managed to climb to a tiny rock to get this one

Managed to climb to a tiny rock to get this one

The top

The top

Whoaaaaaahhh

Whoaaaaaahhh

The village boys were bathing towards the lower end but they had no trouble in swimming

The village boys were bathing towards the lower end but they had no trouble in swimming

Found this fella on our way back

Found this fella on our way back

"Hi Dude!"

“Hi Dude!”

The water goes downhill

The water goes downhill

Mapalana Falls

Go right up to Sri Palabaddala along the Siripagama Road. At the junction, the left one takes you to Siripagama while the right to Mapalana Village. The road is not in very good condition for a low-clearance vehicle. Mapalana Falls is located about 2km from Sri Palabaddala with a gigantic sign directing you.

There’s a footpath through a tea patch for about 100m to reach the base of the falls.

 

The board before the turn to the left along Sri Palabaddala-Mapalana Road

The board before the turn to the left along Sri Palabaddala-Mapalana Road

She's tall

She’s tall

Wish there was more water though

Wish there was more water though

The lower most part was herself a considerably high waterfall

The lower most part was herself a considerably high waterfall

The middle like mist

The middle like mist

The top

The top

This bit is barely visible from the base but looking from distance, like the road is clearly seen

This bit is barely visible from the base but looking from distance, like the road is clearly seen

Giant Nuga Tree providing the shade

Giant Nuga Tree providing the shade

The whole of Mapalana Falls

The whole of Mapalana Falls

Towards the base

Towards the base

"Kollo meke usa" - Tony kept saying

“Kollo meke usa” – Tony kept saying

Water, crystal clear

Water, crystal clear

View from the road. Note the top most part is now very clearly visible

View from the road. Note the top most part is now very clearly visible

Haalmehi Falls

This is also located along Sri Palabaddala-Malapana Road about 800m before the Malapana Falls at a small bridge or what we call a “Bokkuwa”.

Take the footpath parallel to the river through a tea patch uphill for about 500m. It’s possible to tackle this along the river itself when it’s not raining or water levels are high. You will get straight to the falls.

I was wondering why this was called Haalmehi Falls coz it means Sprats but nobody was nearby to ask. Then Tony offered the explanation saying compared to the gigantic Mapalana Falls, this one looks very tiny and like a Sprat thus the name.

Just be careful coz not many people know about this falls or they simply don’t consider this to be a falls as they keep seen the mighty Mapalana day and night. We were lucky to find that one person who knew it by name.

 

Tony pointing at the path. Note the tiny bridge

Tony pointing at the path. Note the tiny bridge

The pool at the bridge and the path is to your left

The pool at the bridge and the path is to your left

Climbing along the river coz there wasn't much water

Climbing along the river coz there wasn’t much water

Plenty of water holes like these

Plenty of water holes like these

Not so far away from the road

Not so far away from the road

Gotta get closer to get an unobstructed view

Gotta get closer to get an unobstructed view

Here she is, well compared to her big sister, she's really like a Sprat

Here she is, well compared to her big sister, she’s really like a Sprat

Again, not a lot of water

Again, not a lot of water

Right at the top

Right at the top

Hitting the base rock

Hitting the base rock

The path we came to the base

The path we came to the base

Kadurugal Dola Falls

This is located around 26th-km post along Wewelwatte Road from Ratnapura at a large bridge. You have to go towards the left through a footpath to see this falls. This is not actually a documented one but all the same creates a nice waterfall.

Madanagiri Falls is from the same water source somewhere uphill and difficult to reach. However you can see her about 200-300m further towards Wewelwatte from the main road.

 

Last time it was nothing but water all over but not this time

Last time it was nothing but water all over but not this time

It was a steep climb around rocks to get a view of this

It was a steep climb around rocks to get a view of this

Looks like a tail

Looks like a tail

Close view

Close view

The water coming from above but not much left

The water coming from above but not much left

I had to climb all the way and Tony decided to stay safely at the bottom picturing tiny cascades. You can barely see the bridge in the distance

I had to climb all the way and Tony decided to stay safely at the bottom picturing tiny cascades. You can barely see the bridge in the distance

Kadurugal Dola on 04 Aug 2013

Just see the amount of water at that time.

 

It was fiercely gushing down

It was fiercely gushing down

It'd have been a majestic scene

It’d have been a majestic scene

Beruwatte Falls

This is about 2km from Wewelwatte towards Balangoda. You’ll see a faded sign giving the distance 2km on your way just before Wewelwatte Town. From Wewelwatte Town, the left road takes you towards Alupola Estate where the famous Alupola Ella is located and the straight road goes to Balangoda and about 1.5-2km away is the Beruwatte Falls. Along the way, you’ll get a clear view of the distant Alupola falls to the left just and you get a view of Beruwatte falls when going towards Alupola Ella.

You’ll meet a house onto your right just by the road with a kitchen built of earth (Katu Mati Gahapu Kussiyak) and just next to it is a footpath towards the falls about 400m away.

 

Here's the landmark

Here’s the landmark

There she is

There she is

Portrait

Portrait

She had the most water of the day

She had the most water of the day

The top

The top

And the bottom

And the bottom

Like all the others, base pool looks very deep

Like all the others, base pool looks very deep

There it is

There it is

Time to say good-bye

Time to say good-bye

Dehena Falls

This falls is located at Amunuthenna along the Wewelwatte Road. This is just by the road and you can’t miss it. We saw this in full flow on 04 Aug 2013. You can see the comparison looking at the pics.

 

Dehena Ella, very tall but very little water

Dehena Ella, very tall but very little water

Up close

Up close

As usual the top

As usual the top

The middle

The middle

Here's the info... 243ft in height

Here’s the info… 243ft in height

Dehena Ella on 04 Aug 2013

What a vast difference?

 

What do you think?

What do you think?

This was taken from the side as it was so hard to stay in front

This was taken from the side as it was so hard to stay in front

Hal Ella

This one is also just by the roadside before Dehena Ella when coming from Ratnapura. As I’ve mentioned before, we saw plenty of water on 04 Aug 2013 but this time there was barely any water. Water was dribbling down along the rocky surface and it really was an abysmal view.

Just remember this has two waterfalls either side. The one on the right is called Hal Ella while the one on the left has no name.

 

This is Hal Ella which is the right one of the couple. Just no water

This is Hal Ella which is the right one of the couple. Just no water

The left part but no name

The left part but no name

Pics taken on 04 Aug 2013

You can see the difference for yourself.

 

Here both the falls together

Here both the falls together

Hal Ella

Hal Ella

Other one to the left

Other one to the left

Katu Kitul Ella

This one lies just before the Hal Ella, about 50m before when coming from Ratnapura along the same Wewelwatte Road. As Hal Ella, there was hardly any water to see.

 

50m or so beyond is Katu Kitul Ella, no water

50m or so beyond is Katu Kitul Ella, no water

Katu Kitul Ella too on 04 Aug 2013

She too was no different with plenty of water then.

 

It was all about water then

It was all about water then

Aanda Falls

This is also found along Wewelwatte Road and when coming from Ratnapura around 12km later you’ll meet a huge bridge with 12/1 sign painted on it by the RDA in Meegasthenna. This is just before the Galabada Village.

There’s a footpath to the falls which is roughly 200m to the left just before the bridge. This is also visible from the road passing the bridge.

 

The path near the 12/1 painted bridge at Meegasthenna before Galabada

The path near the 12/1 painted bridge at Meegasthenna before Galabada

Here's the footpath

Here’s the footpath

I guess you call this slow shutter but I call it point-n-shoot

I guess you call this slow shutter but I call it point-n-shoot

Makeshift shower

Makeshift shower

There she is

There she is

Closer

Closer

The bottom

The bottom

Wish there was more water

Wish there was more water

Does she look like an Eel?

Does she look like an Eel?

Well folks, this is the second of my Waterfall Hunting journeys and hopefully there will be a few more for you to see.

Do check my Video Journey too below for more real-like experience.

Video Journey of Siripagama and Wewelwatte Waterfalls.

Keep tuned in (just like most of the FM channels would say).

Take care and keep travelling…

 

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