Year and Month |
19 & 20 Nov, 2014 |
Number of Days |
2 |
Crew |
Only Me with a guide for Ritigala |
Accommodation |
Dayarathna’s Place, Ritigala |
Transport |
By Train, Bus and Tuk-Tuk |
Activities |
Archaeology, Photography, Hiking, etc… |
Weather |
Heavy Rains with short no-rain periods on 19 Nov. Gloomy and a slight drizzle till 12.30pm on 20 Nov. |
Route |
Fort->Awkana->Vijithapura->Kekirawa->Keeriyagaswewa via Ganewelpola->Ritigala->Galapitagala->Habarana->Colombo. |
Tips, Notes and Special remark |
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- Dayarathna is a very friendly, knowledgeable, reliable and helpful person who knows in and around Ritigala like the back of his hand. He’s got a tuk-tuk should you need to travel anywhere and can also provide meals on request. His house is right next to the Ritigala Visitor Centre.
- You can contact him on 0711-191398 or 0729-740158.
- A helpful Tuk-Tuk contact at Awkana Station. Niroshan (not the Lakdasun member), 0774-676918. He’ll do the journey up to Vijithapura via Awkana and Kala Wewa. Res Vehera is also another possible place to go with him.
- The road from Keeriyagaswewa (from the Visitor Centre) to Archaeological Site (about 2km) is in terrible condition especially when it rains. So avoid travelling in a car.
- Andiyakanda Hermitage is also located close to Keeriyagaswewa but that road too is not very good for a car.
- To see the Archaeological Remains at Ritigala you won’t need a guide but it’s advisable to take one who knows about them well. I can highly recommend Thissa, who accompanied me. He knows about everything and very reliable. You can contact him via Dayarathna.
- Ritigala is one of the three Strict Nature Reserves (RNS) in Sri Lanka and naturally the rules tend to be stricter and tougher compared to others. So please bear with them and adhere to them by all means.
- There’s a false information board at Kekirawa, Galapitagala and at Keeriyagaswewa giving the distance to “Ritigala Ath Athuru Sewana” which is no more. Unfortunately the officials have either forgotten or simply not cared one way or the other.
- Check the Documentary from Una Kanda, Ritigala here.
- Check the Video of Ancient Hospital, Ritigala here.
- Don’t leave polythene or garbage here and there. Take extreme caution to protect the environment.
- Special thanks to Ashan for providing me with Dayarathna’s contact number and his previous report.
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Author |
Sri Abeywickrema |
Comments |
Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread
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Waterfalls have played a major part in my life in 2014. I’ve been going all over the up country searching for pristine white beauties with many of my friends and the hunting was a runaway success. As the rainy season shifted from South-West to North-East, that had been long overdue, I too decided to shift my focus from hill country to somewhere else. This was not because I’d lost interest in my beloved waterfalls, but just wanted to have a change of scene. However very little did I know even though I wanted a change of scene from hill country, I’d end up yet another hilly place.
Staying at home, doing nothing in my weekend can depress me to no end. It’ll further increase when the darn weekend falls on a weekday. There’s a limit that I can sleep so when I knew I was in for yet another useless two days of weekend, I wanted to scream my head off. Amid all the confusion I browsed Lakdasun looking for somewhere to go and I hit the jackpot after a few tries. Ritigala has always been a mystery to me as much as to anyone else. So the need to go see was like a sleeping lion in me, or rather a semi-active volcano, bubbling inside trying to burst the outer crust.
Having failed to find a mate for this hastily arranged journey, I decided to do another solo stunt. Thinking back, I’ve only done 2 solo stunts before out of all the journeys. So this came as the third and I hope it’ll be the last as travelling alone is such a bore. There’s no one to talk to and make plans, it can also be a pain having to satisfy the curious people who are only interested in getting information from me, not giving the information to me.
So thankfully I got a very useful contact number from Ashan and called Dayarathna (Daya for his close friends) who was very cheerful and helpful. However, he said that the rains have started their sing-song and for me to be ready. Well, what on earth was there to be ready other than either call the whole thing off or go get soaked to the bones? I went home on the 18th evening, still undecided whether to go ahead or not. Around 8pm, I was beginning to sweat profusely and had begun to feel feverish too. These symptoms had only one cure, to cut lose and go somewhere.
Day 01
Having called Daya, I got ready to go and slept fitfully till 4am. Getting up, I saw plenty of mist hanging around in the air and on tree tops. I washed my face quickly to make sure that I wasn’t dreaming or I wasn’t in Nuwara Eliya. This was the sign of the Winter had arrived and the chill sent shivers down my spine. I got ready and reached the Fort Station around 5.15am, way too early for the 6.05am train. It was the Udaya Devi Train that runs to Batticaloa. Even though, Podi Menike has been my favorite train to date, not so after the name used on those S-12 Chinese power sets, Udaya Devi took a very good impression on me immediately. Powered by M8 engine, a clone of former Canadian Engine, built in India she had those newly acquired blue and white stripped wagons giving it a matching color combination of the dark blue engine.
During my wait amid less crowded Fort Station unlike on weekends, there was the newly introduced AC Express train to Jaffna that leaves Fort at 5.50am. Finally Udaya Devi reached the number 4 platform in her majestic style and waited for her passengers to get on board. The 2nd class was not at all crowded giving a wider array of seats. It actually made most people go haywire as they simply couldn’t make up their minds about where to sit. They kept hopping from one to the other and then realizing the former was better than the current one, and then going and sitting somewhere else.
It was so fun to watch this drama unfolding and the sun had a tough time penetrating the thick layer of clouds. The seats however were too straight for my liking; it makes you sit upright right throughout the journey with no option to angle it back even slightly. This is the only thing I didn’t like about the train and it was a big mistake by the designers. At the chime of 6.05am, she pulled out of the station sending a jolt through my bones.
Away she went passing the smoky and stinking Colombo suburbs, adding more poisonous black smoke to already over smoked city sky. Reaching the wetlands and swamps in around Ragama and then towards Gampaha in the wee hours was a treat for the eye and the mind. The mist had come in full force the previous night covering the lush green marshlands and paddy fields with her white cloth. I felt so cold when the train went cutting through the morning mist that had hung across the railway line. This was a journey to treasure. The trees stood in the distance amid paddy fields and wetlands covered in mist giving it a ghostly impression. Something you usually experience in Nuwara Eliya, the pine trees covered in mist. If it wasn’t for the paddy field and stretches of open marshy lands, one could’ve easily mistaken the surrounding to be Nuwara Eliya.
Tour Highlights:
- Awkana Buddha Statue
- Kala Wewa
- Vijithapura RMV
- Ritigala Archaeological Remains and Una Kanda
- Andiyakanda Hermitage
The train journey was nice and smooth and I had the carriage pretty much for myself. What irritated me somewhat was Udaya Devi retouching her make up at Maho Junction. She kept looking at herself this way and that way still not satisfied, finally when she managed to make up her mind about her look, we were late by more than half hour. My plans nearly were shot to hell. From Maho, it’s the thick forest and isolated villages the train runs through. It’s very sad to know this is the most evil track for elephants in SL. Hundreds of jumbos have sacrificed their lives for the Iron Monster between Maho and Batticaloa despite various unsuccessful measures taken by our authorities.
![The time table from 5.40am (Click image to enlarge)]() The time table from 5.40am (Click image to enlarge) |
![@ Maho]() @ Maho |
![Having a bath]() Having a bath |
![Changing the sides]() Changing the sides |
![Overseeing the operation]() Overseeing the operation |
![The rainy clouds in the distance]() The rainy clouds in the distance |
![Curious]() Curious |
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Awkana Buddha Statue
Finally, after 4.5 hrs of travelling, I was on the platform at Aukana looking left and right feeling completely lost. I reached the main road (Galnewa-Kekirawa) and found a tuk-tuk and headed towards the statue while the laden skies decided to unburden themselves. It was pouring with rain by the time I reached the temple and had no umbrella to go up to the statue. Thankfully, Niroshan, the tuk-tuk driver had a jacket which he lent me. Using that I managed to reach the temple and keeping my cap as a cover for my camera (thanking my wisdom for sticking with point-n-shoot not with mortar-sized SLR), went towards this beautifully carved Buddha Statue.
I was stopped in my tracks, the rain was pouring over my exposed head, the cap was getting soaked leaking water onto the camera but I was frozen at the sight of this majestic creation. The police officer and another fella kept firing questions at me and they all fell on deaf ears as I was too busy admiring this gigantic and sensational rocky statue. This was a master piece created by the best artists at that time. Every nook and corner with carved with such precision and smoothness, I felt awed by simply looking up the serene looking Buddha.
It’s said and believed a drop of rainwater, detaching itself from the tip of the nose of the statue, would drop in perpendicular into the small depression (providing there’s no wind) carved between the big toes of the statue. It shows the sheer skill and accuracy in those days. I felt proud of our ancestors but sadly can’t say the same thing now. When the rain was too much for me to stay closer, I borrowed an umbrella from one of the tourists and went and took some more pics.
They’re planning to build a roof covering the statue in order to protect it from winds, rain and piercing sun. Whether this will pay dividends is yet to be seen. Having worshipped and said my prayers I left donating a small amount to the foundation and got back in the tuk-tuk in search of Vijithapura RMV.
![Good bye Udaya Devi]() Good bye Udaya Devi |
![Here I am]() Here I am |
![Majestic looking Buddha]() Majestic looking Buddha |
![Closer]() Closer |
![The Stupa near the statue]() The Stupa near the statue |
![The plaque symbolizing the visit of Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip with then President J. R. Jayawardena back in 1981]() The plaque symbolizing the visit of Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip with then President J. R. Jayawardena back in 1981 |
![Simply unbelievable craftsmanship]() Simply unbelievable craftsmanship |
![Side view]() Side view |
![Raining very hard]() Raining very hard |
![Can't believe this is done out of rock]() Can’t believe this is done out of rock |
![Upper part]() Upper part |
![And the lower, would be a sight to see bathed in flood lights]() And the lower, would be a sight to see bathed in flood lights |
![Very old]() Very old |
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Kala Wewa and Vijithapura RMV
The sky was heavily pregnant with water and looked at me gloomily. I stopped on the bund of this mighty creature pondering of King Dathusena who had built many tanks and canals. Unfortunately, his fate was sealed at the Kala Wewa itself when his son, gone insane killed him by burying him alive on the bund of this tank.
My next stop was Vijithapura RMV, a temple believed to have been built by King Dutugemunu after defeating Elara. Vijithapura is supposed to be the great battlefield where King Dutugemunu re-united the country defeating South Indian invaders. The rains had eased by the time I got off the tuk-tuk and went in, having paid Rs. 400/- for Niroshan for his troubles. The Stupa is something I hadn’t seen anywhere before with a uniquely design structure. I’ll let the pics do the explaining. There were many remains of ancient civilizations.
Out of all the historical remains, the “Kadu Ge Gala” (The rock where the swords were sharpened) is the main highlight. It’s believed this was used to sharpen the swords by King Dutugemunu and his soldiers. The rock itself is showing so much erosion in the middle proving it was very heavily used. Bidding farewell to this historic place I got into a bus and reached Kekirawa in the middle of yet another heavy shower.
![Kala Wewa]() Kala Wewa |
![Water levels increasing]() Water levels increasing |
![One of the many sluice gates for canals]() One of the many sluice gates for canals |
![Isolated]() Isolated |
![At the temple]() At the temple |
![Majestic]() Majestic |
![With the thousands of years old stone pillars]() With the thousands of years old stone pillars |
![One of the beautiful Stupa's I've seen]() One of the beautiful Stupa’s I’ve seen |
![The top of it]() The top of it |
![Famous Rock where the swords were sharpened]() Famous Rock where the swords were sharpened |
![Showing heavy use, that sword is not a real one]() Showing heavy use, that sword is not a real one |
![You know what these are]() You know what these are |
![Some more]() Some more |
![Another]() Another |
![The main image house but not open at the time, thanks to treasure hunters]() The main image house but not open at the time, thanks to treasure hunters |
![The steps to the Stupa]() The steps to the Stupa |
![On the left]() On the left |
![And the right]() And the right |
![The full package]() The full package |
![Towards the top, this looks like a king worshipping but the head is broken]() Towards the top, this looks like a king worshipping but the head is broken |
![Seeking some warmth]() Seeking some warmth |
![Remains]() Remains |
![Foundation of a former complex]() Foundation of a former complex |
![Another]() Another |
![Mmm, mouth watering]() Mmm, mouth watering |
![Scattered across]() Scattered across |
![Fully stone]() Fully stone |
![The official logo of the Department of Irrigation nowadays]() The official logo of the Department of Irrigation nowadays |
![Many more across the road too]() Many more across the road too |
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Keeriyagaswewa, Ritigala
Daya was waiting for at Kekirawa and after a hasty lunch, we wanted to the go see some more archaeological remains in a place called Divulwewa but the intermittent showers made the decision for us. Having abandoned our plans, we reached his house in Keeriyagaswewa, right in front of Ritigala Visitor Centre and settled for the night.
The jumbos usually roam around the area at will but I wasn’t lucky enough to see any. However I took the opportunity to roam about the Ritigala Visitor Centre and take some pics. Then it was time to call it a day and go to sleep. So after a wash and a heavy dinner I was fast asleep the moment my head hit the pillow. It was a very good night with no troubles from jumbos and I slept without a dream till 6am.
Note: Before I get up, just wanna keep you guys in the loop about another blunder by the officials. They had started a project very much similar to Udawalawa Ath Athuru Sewana called “Ritigala Ath Athuru Sewana” and was open to the public. Having spent millions of public money for this, now they’d simply abandoned the whole thing and giving away the remaining baby elephants to places even the wildlife officials have no clue.
So this is yet another blunder by the officials and I guess mainly the politicians. I also received some inside information from someone who likes to remain anonymous that the number of baby elephants that were stolen in the recent past is well over 100. This is very reliable information coming directly from the people who know it for a fact. Just imagine the plight of those poor fellows having no freedom and separated from the warmth of their mothers and care of the families.
Instead they are kept as a symbol of status by those who can pay large sums in either bribes or illegally to those corrupt officials and politicians. Unfortunately many tourists, especially the foreigners, get misled by these boards which are located at Kekirawa Town, Galapitagala Turn off and near the premises too. Someone has written on the board close to the premises with some paint “Wasa Atha” or “Closed” trying in vain to keep the tourists informed about it not functioning anymore.
![Buildings of visitor center]() Buildings of visitor center |
![The range]() The range |
![Kodi Gala]() Kodi Gala |
![Rest of the range]() Rest of the range |
![Only the boards]() Only the boards |
![Causeway aka Shoe Bridge]() Causeway aka Shoe Bridge |
![Against the dark sky]() Against the dark sky |
![Huge mushroom]() Huge mushroom |
![The full package]() The full package |
![The old board]() The old board |
![Built in 2008]() Built in 2008 |
![Open to the public]() Open to the public |
![Either side of the entrance]() Either side of the entrance |
![The other]() The other |
![The pathway]() The pathway |
![Higher up]() Higher up |
![The summit over the roof]() The summit over the roof |
![Do this please]() Do this please |
![Interior]() Interior |
![Towards the cafeteria]() Towards the cafeteria |
![The prison is around the corner]() The prison is around the corner |
![A big complex]() A big complex |
![Like walking through a jungle. Reminds of a theme park in Malaysia or Singapore?]() Like walking through a jungle. Reminds of a theme park in Malaysia or Singapore? |
![The icing in the distant]() The icing in the distant |
![Can't get enough of it]() Can’t get enough of it |
![Colorful fella]() Colorful fella |
![Water dripping off]() Water dripping off |
![Some more]() Some more |
Day 02
Nothing beats a good night’s sleep which was exactly I had last night making me feel nice and fresh in the morning. The wildlife kept making various kinda noises throughout adding flavor to the music industry. I had big plans for the day and hurriedly got dressed and was about by 6.30am while the sun was fighting a fierce battle with the clouds. The clouds were not in the mood to give in and instead gathered so thickly covering the tip of Ritigala as if icing on a cake.
With Daya, I went to see the Keeriyagaswewa Tank in the hope of seeing a jumbo but the Nuwara Eliya-esque climate kept them hidden deep in the jungle, probably still snoring loudly. Unfortunately, the renovated tank in 2008, now in a very bad shape as there hasn’t been any maintenance. We saw some foot marks of the elephants and had to be content with that. The Rigitala Range with 7 peaks was covered in mist and were looking absolutely breath-taking in the morning.
It was time to have an early breakfast and Daya got one of his cuisine brothers, Thissa to accompany me to Ritigala. Thissa is a very good fellow with loads of knowledge about Ritigala and its historical value. He claims that he’s visited Ritigala more than 100 times covering most of its area. After talking to him, I came to believe that he knows what he was talking about. So time to go see the Majestic and Tranquil Kingdom of Ritigala.
![Daya and Son]() Daya and Son |
![Posing shyly]() Posing shyly |
![The path towards the Archaeological Site]() The path towards the Archaeological Site |
![Keeriyagaswewa Tank]() Keeriyagaswewa Tank |
![The right plank of mighty Ritigala]() The right plank of mighty Ritigala |
![One of the peaks]() One of the peaks |
![This is the left plank]() This is the left plank |
![Very hard to get a clear pic...]() Very hard to get a clear pic… |
![Busy early morning despite being so old]() Busy early morning despite being so old |
![Pinkies up in the morning too]() Pinkies up in the morning too |
![Some yellows too]() Some yellows too |
![Not edible, unfortunately]() Not edible, unfortunately |
![Daya's son keeping an eye out]() Daya’s son keeping an eye out |
![The last in the herd]() The last in the herd |
![He could drive this as good as any]() He could drive this as good as any |
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Ritigala Archaeological Remains and Una Kanda
Facts on Ritigala in Pics:
Do check the information given at the Visitor Centre that I took on my lenses below. It helps to check the pics rather and reading them I guess. Then let’s go to the fairy tale bit.
![(Click image to enlarge)]() (Click image to enlarge) |
![(Click image to enlarge)]() (Click image to enlarge) |
![(Click image to enlarge)]() (Click image to enlarge) |
![(Click image to enlarge)]() (Click image to enlarge) |
![(Click image to enlarge)]() (Click image to enlarge) |
![(Click image to enlarge)]() (Click image to enlarge) |
![(Click image to enlarge)]() (Click image to enlarge) |
![(Click image to enlarge)]() (Click image to enlarge) |
![(Click image to enlarge)]() (Click image to enlarge) |
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There’s 2km of muddy road till the archaeological site of Ritigala from the Visitor Centre. This has many pot holes and extremely slippery even after a slight drizzle. Low clearance vehicle such as a car will have a rough journey, so better to avoid going in one. Instead, you can walk this 2km along a nice and shady road or use your jeep, van or 4X4. If none of them suits you, hire Daya’s tuk-tuk from the Visitor Centre which I did.
The sky looked threatening and very dark; the picture became even gloomier inside the forest-covered road. We reached the archaeological site around 8am and obtained the permission to go see them from the officer on site. I felt it was a pity they didn’t charge anything to see them as anything given for free has very little value. Hope they will start charging to enter the site in future.
As soon as we entered the site, there were remains of what looked like a big tank and Thissa duly informed me that it is called “Panda Wewa”. There were these huge rocky slabs (must be about H x W x D = 4’ x 1’ x 0.5’) used as the outer wall making it a set of steps that lead to the tank gradually. I was immediately fascinated by the sheer ingenuity of this structure. These rocky slabs were placed so close to each other and they must’ve used some kinda very special cement mixture to keep them in place and retain the water without any leaks. I even heard that those days, they used bee-honey as well in those special cement mixtures.
Passing this, we kept going uphill along the well-paved 10-12ft wide rocky path. Similar kind of rocky slabs used to border the path wile even wider ones were used along the path placing them closer to each other making a nice path with steps where necessary and resting places too. I was lost for words and was staring at these wonderful creations as if they were talking to me. I was hypnotized by the ingenuity and creativity of our ancestors. Everywhere I looked, there was abundant evidence to the mastery of our former architectural skills.
Thissa gave a running commentary over the ruins telling me of their significance. I was a kid once again listening to a very interesting history lesson from his teacher. One such extraordinarily place was the remains of the ancient hospital. There were many rocky mills, where they used to grind medicine. The rocks looked heavily used over years of grinding and blending many different medicinal leaves, flowers and barks. There were a couple of medicinal boats in which the patients were submerged in medicinal liquids. To the center of the complex there was the place where the seriously injured were treated. A rocky bed was laid with a fascinating drainage system to remove the urine and bowels.
The whole mountain range was self-sufficient in every way. There were medicinal gardens, fruit gardens and tanks along with watch towers and their own hospital. This was a very modern living system created some thousands of years ago in this country that was beyond the wildest dreams of many others at the time.
![At the archaeological remains]() At the archaeological remains |
![Some of them kept in front]() Some of them kept in front |
![Mud-walled Office]() Mud-walled Office |
![Here we go]() Here we go |
![Panda Tank]() Panda Tank |
![See how neatly it's done]() See how neatly it’s done |
![Path]() Path |
![Very big]() Very big |
![Scattered all around]() Scattered all around |
![Shady path but no sun to disturb us]() Shady path but no sun to disturb us |
![Circling around these obstacles]() Circling around these obstacles |
![Going up]() Going up |
![Beginning of the mile long rocky stairway]() Beginning of the mile long rocky stairway |
![Climbing all the while]() Climbing all the while |
![Resting places]() Resting places |
![Just can't get enough of these]() Just can’t get enough of these |
![Rounding paths]() Rounding paths |
![Goes on]() Goes on |
![A huge complex]() A huge complex |
![Must've been a grand construction in the past]() Must’ve been a grand construction in the past |
![The ancient hospital]() The ancient hospital |
![Remains]() Remains |
![Where they blended the medicine]() Where they blended the medicine |
![Medicinal boats]() Medicinal boats |
![Where the severely injured was treated]() Where the severely injured was treated |
![Drains]() Drains |
![Sandy path]() Sandy path |
![Many more to see]() Many more to see |
![To another level]() To another level |
![(Click image to enlarge)]() (Click image to enlarge) |
![Amid the trees]() Amid the trees |
![Never ending]() Never ending |
![Almost 150-200m long this direct stretch]() Almost 150-200m long this direct stretch |
![Not explored properly yet]() Not explored properly yet |
![Gigantic trees]() Gigantic trees |
![To the watch tower]() To the watch tower |
![Closer]() Closer |
![Here it is]() Here it is |
![Going up]() Going up |
![The solidly built walls]() The solidly built walls |
![View not clear due to gloominess]() View not clear due to gloominess |
![This is believed to be the pillow used by the guards to rest. Just imagine having to rest on a rocky pillow this big, the guard must've been so big]() This is believed to be the pillow used by the guards to rest. Just imagine having to rest on a rocky pillow this big, the guard must’ve been so big |
![From the watch tower]() From the watch tower |
![Much much more]() Much much more |
![Higher ground]() Higher ground |
![More resting places]() More resting places |
![Another of buildings]() Another of buildings |
![Looks very well planned]() Looks very well planned |
![Must be the most artistic commode]() Must be the most artistic commode |
![Framed]() Framed |
![This is a meditating chamber]() This is a meditating chamber |
![Time to go see the Bamboo Mountain]() Time to go see the Bamboo Mountain |
Passing all these we went further up. Our target was to reach one of the seven summits of Ritigala called Una Kanda. Others are Andiya Kanda, Awshadha Kanda, Amarapathi Kanda, Na Ulpath Kanda, Palathuru Kanda and Kodi Kanda. Out of these, Kodi Kanda aka Kodi Gala is the highest summit point with a height of 766m.
The forest was so dense and there was no sunlight, though there was very little of it, coming through the thick tree cover. Led by Thissa we started the ascent amid a moderate trail uphill. There were a few snakes that went across the path at intervals sending fear through the ears. However, Thissa was unfazed by any of that and kept climbing. It was tough going and the humidity was unbearable despite it being so cold the previous night and early morning.
Closer to the viewing points, the going became a bit treacherous as the terrain was soaked in rain and all the rocks were as slippery as an eel’s back. Finally, with a lot of going around and hanging dearly for tree branches, we were at the viewing point but the dark umbrella overhead didn’t help the visibility at all. The Kodi Gala, highest point of Ritigala, rather the whole of North Central and Northern Province combined, was to our right covered by the mist. While thick grey clouds were going overhead towards Minneriya, Dambulla and Matale.
The weather held all the time but now the rain was imminent, so without wasting any more time, having done a very quick documentary we started our descent while the rain started hammering the tree cover above us. I panicked big time but thankfully, the rain gods took pity on us as they sent it farther away after a short burst. We made to the office where Daya was waiting patiently for us. It was time to go see the last of the tour highlights, Andiyakanda Hermitage.
![Some more mammoth trees]() Some more mammoth trees |
![Mushy mushrooms]() Mushy mushrooms |
![Artistic]() Artistic |
![Just look at the path]() Just look at the path |
![Now the thick forest]() Now the thick forest |
![Goes up around these]() Goes up around these |
![Colorful]() Colorful |
![Wasps' nest]() Wasps’ nest |
![Full of snakes too]() Full of snakes too |
![Twisting]() Twisting |
![Towards Habarana, Minneriya and Pollonnaruwa]() Towards Habarana, Minneriya and Pollonnaruwa |
![Kodi Kanda covered in mist]() Kodi Kanda covered in mist |
![Thissa giving a running commentary]() Thissa giving a running commentary |
![Where we went in the middle]() Where we went in the middle |
![Zoomed]() Zoomed |
![Got back]() Got back |
![Daya must be waiting]() Daya must be waiting |
![Majestic and Mysterious Ritigala]() Majestic and Mysterious Ritigala |
Andiyakanda Hermitage
This is located about 2km from the Ritigala Visitor Centre along Keeriyagaswewa-Galapitagala Road. You need to take a similar road to the Archaeological Site for about another 2km which is also not in good condition for a car. The road is among the forest and Daya kept a close watch for jumbos. I was yearning for them to appear but none of them did for my disappointment. Daya’s little son too came with us.
We could see the Andiyakanda in the middle of the mountain range. According to folklore, one old person had been told about a treasure at Andiyakanda and was specifically asked to take only a small amount. However the sheer greediness of the human nature took the better of him and he went inside the cave on the Andiyakanda for more and more treasure. Sounds like Ali Baba and 40 Thieves, doesn’t it? As a punishment for his greediness, once he was inside the cave, one huge rock had fallen barring the entrance trapping him inside.
Listening to all these fairy tales, we reached the hermitage which was so calm and quiet save for the wind rustling the leaves, birds, mainly peacocks, making different tunes and our feet crunching on the gravel. The monks were having their meals and without disturbing them, we went for a look see. There were many caves with drip ledges. The outer walls have now been built using bricks and cement making them protect from insects and other animals for the monks.
After a brief tour, we got back to the alms hall where the monks were doing the post-meal rituals. There was a tiny deer named “Bindu”. It had been wounded on the thigh and now receiving treatments from these monks. The chief monk was very kind and understandably even Bindu felt it as it kept running towards him whenever a stranger or some fearful noise was heard. After a short stay, we returned to the tuk-tuk and were on our way to the Galapitagala Junction. I then bid farewell to my hosts and got into a bus to Habarana from where I took a very fast bus to Colombo.
![Our last destination]() Our last destination |
![Finally the mist drifted off. Can see some Elephant poo on the road]() Finally the mist drifted off. Can see some Elephant poo on the road |
![Here's the Andiya Kanda]() Here’s the Andiya Kanda |
![Entering the Monastery]() Entering the Monastery |
![Do read this. (Click image to enlarge)]() Do read this. (Click image to enlarge) |
![Water beginning to find new paths]() Water beginning to find new paths |
![Through the dense forest]() Through the dense forest |
![The main alms hall]() The main alms hall |
![Going uphill]() Going uphill |
![The Bo Tree is around the corner]() The Bo Tree is around the corner |
![Here it is]() Here it is |
![One of the modified caves. Note the drip-ledges]() One of the modified caves. Note the drip-ledges |
![A close up of a drip-ledge]() A close up of a drip-ledge |
![Choco and Creamy Mushroom]() Choco and Creamy Mushroom |
![Backwards]() Backwards |
![Another similar cave]() Another similar cave |
![It's believed the whole of Ritigala housed some 500+ Arhath Bhikkus during Aritta Thero's era]() It’s believed the whole of Ritigala housed some 500+ Arhath Bhikkus during Aritta Thero’s era |
![Another drip-ledge but very special]() Another drip-ledge but very special |
![Coz of these writings]() Coz of these writings |
![Few more]() Few more |
![Here's Bindu]() Here’s Bindu |
![Can't stand properly due to the injury]() Can’t stand properly due to the injury |
![Seeking protection under the Saffron Robe]() Seeking protection under the Saffron Robe |
![Compassion]() Compassion |
![Knows no harm will come to him]() Knows no harm will come to him |
![Here's the wound being treated by the monks]() Here’s the wound being treated by the monks |
![Time to go]() Time to go |
![The stupidity of the officials]() The stupidity of the officials |
Check the couple of Panos I took:
Well, folks, that’s the fairy tale of this unbelievably beautiful and tranquil place. You’re bound to be awed by its history and the majestic craftsmanship of our ancestors.
Do pay a visit if you already haven’t done so. This is Sri signing off for now and hoping to see you once again with another journey…
Until then, be safe and keep travelling.
Adiós!
Sri…